Hi PJPro
I would say stick with what you have for this one. You can use the pricey stuff on the next, and compare between the two. You will know if it sounds worth the extra to you!
I use cat 5 for signal wires, largely because I get offcuts from a mate for free and other than it being awkward to strip it's nice to work with.
John
I would say stick with what you have for this one. You can use the pricey stuff on the next, and compare between the two. You will know if it sounds worth the extra to you!
I use cat 5 for signal wires, largely because I get offcuts from a mate for free and other than it being awkward to strip it's nice to work with.
John
I don't mind spending a bit of money. After all, my binding posts and rca sockets were hardly cheap.....it'd be a pity to skimp on cable if a small outlay would improve things.


all that cool stuff you are buying 🙂
Could you please post pics of the cases you bought? I would like to see the inside mounting provisions.
You are using voltage regulators to feed the LM3886s I am not sure if that's a good idea.
Basically you're adding at least one more transistor in the path from the PSU filter capacitors into the speakers. That transistor and whatever else is connected at its base, is not an audio grade transistor - and even if it were its job is to try to react to changes on both ends, on its collector and on its emitter (I am assuming a series regulator), which means when its collector voltage changes because the transformer regulates for example, or when its load decreases because your LM3886's audio transistors open some more, it will react to those changes trying to keep the emitter voltage constant, but it is not an audio grade transistor so its hfe chart can be anything, and as it reacts to changes that have already happened one would need to ask how quickly it does so and so on. Plus how much noise it and whatever is at its base generate and inject into your LM3886s. Plus other things I have not thought about.
Unless you are driving a 4R speaker and your transformer/PSU gives out too high voltage ? Is that why you're doing it ?
Could you please post pics of the cases you bought? I would like to see the inside mounting provisions.
You are using voltage regulators to feed the LM3886s I am not sure if that's a good idea.
Basically you're adding at least one more transistor in the path from the PSU filter capacitors into the speakers. That transistor and whatever else is connected at its base, is not an audio grade transistor - and even if it were its job is to try to react to changes on both ends, on its collector and on its emitter (I am assuming a series regulator), which means when its collector voltage changes because the transformer regulates for example, or when its load decreases because your LM3886's audio transistors open some more, it will react to those changes trying to keep the emitter voltage constant, but it is not an audio grade transistor so its hfe chart can be anything, and as it reacts to changes that have already happened one would need to ask how quickly it does so and so on. Plus how much noise it and whatever is at its base generate and inject into your LM3886s. Plus other things I have not thought about.
Unless you are driving a 4R speaker and your transformer/PSU gives out too high voltage ? Is that why you're doing it ?
It is the LM3886 that cannot handle more than about 60 volts on a 4 ohm speaker and a total of about 83 volts regardless. Other chips, or other amplifiers might scale differently, better or worse. The choice of the transformer therefore is imposed by the chip not by the speakers. Well more accurately by the combination.
Are you saying that I can use my 25v tranformers with 4 ohm speakers? I thought this was on the high side......with 18v recommended and 22v as a maximum.
It is for this reason I wanted to consider the option of regulators....so allow me to use 25v transformers with 4 ohm speakers.
My work around (for now) is to use 8 ohm speakers 🙂
It is for this reason I wanted to consider the option of regulators....so allow me to use 25v transformers with 4 ohm speakers.
My work around (for now) is to use 8 ohm speakers 🙂
OK. I received the new power modules today and, hurrah, they look like they're the right ones.
Schurter DD12.9121.111 Power Inlet Module with Schurter 4301.1413 Fingergrip Fuse Drawer (shorting bar in the neutral side).
Aluminium Shielding

Schurter DD12.9121.111 Power Inlet Module with Schurter 4301.1413 Fingergrip Fuse Drawer (shorting bar in the neutral side).

Aluminium Shielding
I was bored on the train home and answered from the bbry, so I did not justify : I clicked on your link to check the cases, and noticed a message where you said something like "the choice of transformer determines the speakers", and wanted to let you know it is the chip that imposes the limits not the speakers.
In your case you have bought the 25V ones (like I did, only I bought a single 300VA) and that should give you 39.48 VDC on each rail (offload), which is very very near the max the LM3886 can take, and definitely well above the recommended max for 4 R, so you need to stay with 8 R speakers (which I had thought was the norm anyway).
OK I can see the case you got now, it seems it does not have a double bottom. How are you meant to mount transformers and other bits and pieces on to it?
In your case you have bought the 25V ones (like I did, only I bought a single 300VA) and that should give you 39.48 VDC on each rail (offload), which is very very near the max the LM3886 can take, and definitely well above the recommended max for 4 R, so you need to stay with 8 R speakers (which I had thought was the norm anyway).
OK I can see the case you got now, it seems it does not have a double bottom. How are you meant to mount transformers and other bits and pieces on to it?
I've fabricated my own false bottom.
This is included in my build thread but see below....
Slightly Heath Robinson, but it'll do the job. 🙂


Slightly Heath Robinson, but it'll do the job. 🙂
me would at least try the 2x25V transformer. It is not a black or white decision, these things are grey...PJPro said:Are you saying that I can use my 25v tranformers with 4 ohm speakers? I thought this was on the high side......with 18v recommended and 22v as a maximum.
It is for this reason I wanted to consider the option of regulators....so allow me to use 25v transformers with 4 ohm speakers.
My work around (for now) is to use 8 ohm speakers 🙂
regards
Hi
RE> Schurter DD12.9121.111 Power Inlet Module
great...looks like they shipped you the non Medical grade filter with the 2200pF Y caps included, goody for you then.
High end hookup wire for me means MIL spec teflon and silver plated strands. Vendor = Apex Jr surplus sales guy here on DIYA
added link http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=52637
Had to lookup Heath Robinson> Rube Goldburg over here
RE> Schurter DD12.9121.111 Power Inlet Module
great...looks like they shipped you the non Medical grade filter with the 2200pF Y caps included, goody for you then.
High end hookup wire for me means MIL spec teflon and silver plated strands. Vendor = Apex Jr surplus sales guy here on DIYA
added link http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=52637
Had to lookup Heath Robinson> Rube Goldburg over here
Thanks infinia. I'm also looking at John Silver's Wire Shop. It would appear than many DIYers from Headfi recommend his wares.
And yes, I used the mixup over the drawers as an opportunity to get the modules you recommended. 🙂
And yes, I used the mixup over the drawers as an opportunity to get the modules you recommended. 🙂
I wonder what effect that air cored inductor in the Neutral line has on improving the VHF attenuation.
Any thoughts?
Any thoughts?
Funny you had me scratching my head for a bit. Looks like it might be on the line side.
I could estimate it for you Andrew, but probably not that significant compared to the ferrite core leakage on the other side.
besides anything else it provides is a bonus
I could estimate it for you Andrew, but probably not that significant compared to the ferrite core leakage on the other side.
besides anything else it provides is a bonus
Pro MUST CHECK that the shorting link in lieu of the fuse is NOT in the Live side.infinia said:Looks like it might be on the line side.
It must be in the neutral side.
Also check ground to IEC shield continuity. I think there might be none, so you must make it anyway at the chassis for best effect ie chassis hole fit tight with paint filed off on outside edges. This is a detail hassle I know.
In addition IEC ground to chassis at secure chassis bolt for safety and star ground point, so only use those 2 places for chassis grounds period full stop.
In addition IEC ground to chassis at secure chassis bolt for safety and star ground point, so only use those 2 places for chassis grounds period full stop.
Yes. Will do. Thanks.AndrewT said:Pro MUST CHECK that the shorting link in lieu of the fuse is NOT in the Live side.
It must be in the neutral side.
OK. I'll measure continuity from the shield to earth....and take the precautions you specifiy. I'm keen to make sure the amps are safe. Again, thanks.infinia said:Also check ground to IEC shield continuity. I think there might be none, so you must make it anyway at the chassis for best effect ie chassis hole fit tight with paint filed off on outside edges. This is a detail hassle I know.
In addition IEC ground to chassis at secure chassis bolt for safety and star ground point, so only use those 2 places for chassis grounds period full stop.
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