First Fullrange suggestions.

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#161
Okay.
ive changed my mind yet again!
i think i am going to run terminals of some description on the back of my boxes. (i want to experiemnt with cables, ive done to much reading again!)
i havnt becided what tho!? and more importantly (maybe?) what wire to run from the terminals to the speakers, as this will likely never or rarely be changed!

Also regarding this design, how would i go about changing the stuffing internally etc, access Via the speaker hole?
if via the speaker hole, i will need slack on the wires inside to be able to remove the speaker? (doesnt sound great to me)

removable top? (im thinking this is probably best option? (im not afraid of a few screws being visible, and i can always hide them with something anyway.

i think removable side is probably not a good idea?


Also regarding this picture here,

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/33/y42.JPG

Is something like this a good idea for the feet/floor of the speaker.
I cant afford marble blocks! but i can cast some concrete ones and do my best to make em look pretty.
I only assume this will help the sound? but it seems detrimental to the bass? (*shrug* just a guess)

Thanks again for all your help!
muchly appreciated!


p.s
Having trouble finding suitable felting, the stuffing i have no problem with, but the half inch felt i cant find! (unless i want a huge roll, which i dont!)
any suggestions for in Aus?
happy to get it from overseas.
any of you guys got some spare floating around? i have paypal 😉
message me if so.
 
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#163
nigelwright7557 said:
I leave the screws showing on the back for maintenance purposes.

Speakon is the best connector for speakers.
Jack plugs can get pulled out and they short on the way out.
Binding terminals can short out if the wire isn't wrapped tidily.
Click to expand...


looks expensive 😛
I wont be playing with my wires while they are live (habbit from my trade), so not to concerned about shorting etc.

as for wire choice? i intend to experiment with High (hopefully) qaulity DIY cables, so i would prefer something that will be adequate yet affordable as the internal wire. (i was even thinking of making some short CAT5 braided wires for the inside of the box, and soldering them to the speaker terminals.
 
#164
Speakon is actually very inexpensive $4 ea and $8 a set matching male-female compared to $20 for fancy gold colored banana terminal binding posts. With a full range driver just basic wire is all that is needed - 18 gauge lamp cord works as well as thin 24 gauge solid copper from cat5. Don't overthink it - you won't be able to hear a difference. I use basic banana binding posts about $3 a set. I also use solid 22 gauge home security alarm install wire (sold by 500ft spools) for internal speaker runs as well as quick disconnects crimped on. Leave about 8in of extra wire in order to remove driver and disconnect and reconnect. If solid wire, it is stiff enough to not flap around, in which case wrap some stuffing around it so that it doesn't rattle.

You can adjust stuffing through driver cutout with wire hook. Add more than needed in chunks and pull out to taste.

A mic and measurement software will help you balance the stuffing adjustments for both.

Parts Express Gold Plated Banana 5-Way Speaker Wire Binding Post Terminal
 
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#165
LeMoNFuZzY said:
removable top? (im thinking this is probably best option? (im not afraid of a few screws being visible, and i can always hide them with something anyway.
Click to expand...

Yes, removable top is the best option.

For binding posts, the one xrk971 has linked is a simple and good one. Here is another option from Parts-Express:

Round Speaker Terminal Cup 2-7/8" Gold Banana Binding Post

Check out the shipping cost and time from the US.

Here is a link to possibly the same item from an Australian dealer (but no picture - so you will need to check):

Round Speaker Terminal Cup 2-7/8" Gold Banana Binding Post - Parts Express
 
#168
thanks all.
is there a particular style that is "better"
after looking into these "speakon" style, they do look pritty good, do they offer a nice clean connection?
im a bit fussy regarding terminals that i cant physically tighten on myself 😛

Would you recomend a single braid of CAT5 for internals?
6x24g wires in 3 twisted pairs. braided.
this would be nice and stiff and i get to add some fancyness 😉

regarding actualy speaker cables from amp to terminals, am i just being ridiculous with the CAT5 braid? ive been following this
DIY Cat5 Speaker Cables

but im thinking the FULL blown version is Way overkill for my application, and will probably just do a 9 pair run. so 9x24g solid wires for each terminal. im a little concerned about the high capacitance of the full 27 pair cable.
 
#170
LeMoNFuZzY said:
Having trouble finding suitable felting, the stuffing i have no problem with, but the half inch felt i cant find! (unless i want a huge roll, which i dont!)
any suggestions for in Aus?
Click to expand...

Lemon,

Found a link for felt in Aus:

Superfelt

The carpet underlay is likely what you are looking for. You can go for 6mm - if you need 1/2", just use 2 layers.

I recommend felt made from natural fibres like jute or from wool.

For connecting the drivers to the binding posts/terminal cups, CAT5 works fine.
 
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#174
Felt in Australia? If you're down in Tasmania you can get as much as you can carry for free, just bring your clippers and some gumboots.
🙂
zman01 said:
Lemon,

Found a link for felt in Aus:

Superfelt

The carpet underlay is likely what you are looking for. You can go for 6mm - if you need 1/2", just use 2 layers.

I recommend felt made from natural fibres like jute or from wool.

For connecting the drivers to the binding posts/terminal cups, CAT5 works fine.
Click to expand...
 
#176
Ha, I actually live in northern Spain but I studied (a bit) at Hobart for a semester nearly 20 years ago. I stayed on a sheep farm for a few days, one of the most beautiful places I've been to.

Off topic?

To get back on topic, I'll offer my suggestion in case you haven't already ordered drivers. Fostex FF165k or Fe166 in a BIB. Simple build, big relaxed sound assuming you have corners available or normal height ceilings. The Alpair 10 could be interesting in the BIB but may have too much bass (having never heard them, based solely on my experience with the unrelated chr-70). Enjoy your build! :cheers:
 
#177
gazzagazza said:
And you get to solder directly to the terminal, not just a flimsy little solder tag.
Click to expand...


Well, the terminal connecting to the voice coil litz lead is usually at least as "flimsy" as those on the cheapy cups that I've used for years, or the surface mount units that xrk referenced

We are talking full range drivers here, not cranking over a 10 liter diesel engine on a freezing morning, so the advantages of heavier gauge internal wiring and WBT grade terminals may be more academic than anything
 
#178
Yeah, what most folks don't realize [and often don't believe] is that over short distances, speaker wire normally doesn't need to be very large unless the driver 'demands' a very high current.

What matters then is voltage drop over distance, with up to 1.0 V being considered acceptable, so often small gauge magnet wire is sufficient for most typical 'FR' driver apps unless the wire runs are very long and even then, 16 ga lamp cord is often overkill since 'FR' drivers generally can't handle much current.

GM
 
#180
I use building wire for my interconnects. Generally due to standards requirements two core double insulated stuff isn't available any more. I just either use up unwanted stock or the 3 core. Typically 1.5 squared is easy to come by.

For connectors I have been using XT60's lately. I have a lot of these, they have great plug in, very low contact resistance and they're cheap as. The main issue is that they don't come in a bulkhead style so the choices are either to drill two small holes and glue or make your own bulkhead.

(don't be tempted to use the bigger XT90, it is a better design for various reasons, but it's hollow body isn't leakproof without additional work)

Unfortunately - probably deliberately - the barrels are not compatible with standard bullets at 3.5mm. (the bigger brother is also the same at 4.5mm). But when the plugs are so damned cheap adapters are no problems if you must.

Lastly, blue, yellow and black types make multi-way coding a cinch. (you can also use coloured PVC boots over the solder connection for more variety)
 
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