Good advice!
That said, MJK's designs use what I consider non-optimum driver placement to get it up to ~ear height while keeping cab height semi-reasonable. Not that the designs are bad, just not the ~theoretical ideal since max pipe gain isn't a goal if good transient response is, which the Jordan ML-TL is based on, though it can be damped as required to suit.
Placing the driver at the top of the pipe causes peaking at Fb and stronger harmonics so using the Jordan's somewhat more loaded vent design will just make this worse, requiring it to be damped for best performance, defeating the reason for using it.
Anyway, for cheap/easy construction and performance wise you can't beat a simple straight ML-TL, so MJK's design is a good plan except with the vent exiting the rear if you don't want it visible and they aren't going to be up against the wall or near/at a corner. If so, then either a longer vent or vent damping (make it somewhat aperiodic) will ideally be required to roll off the speaker's response to compensate for the additional gain, or not if you like how it sounds. 😉
WRT MDF Vs void free plywood such as Baltic Birch, Appleply, or possibly marine grade (though it's no longer as good a grade as it once was, at least here in the USA), you want rigidity first and foremost for good electro-mechanical acoustic efficiency, so plywood is the 'no brainer' choice if you want the cab to be relatively light, otherwise with MDF's low MOE it will require very thick walls to match it. If you want the MDF's ease of finishing properties then glue a 1/4" 'veneer' of it to the plywood cab, which gets you a bit more rigidity/damping too.
GM
That said, MJK's designs use what I consider non-optimum driver placement to get it up to ~ear height while keeping cab height semi-reasonable. Not that the designs are bad, just not the ~theoretical ideal since max pipe gain isn't a goal if good transient response is, which the Jordan ML-TL is based on, though it can be damped as required to suit.
Placing the driver at the top of the pipe causes peaking at Fb and stronger harmonics so using the Jordan's somewhat more loaded vent design will just make this worse, requiring it to be damped for best performance, defeating the reason for using it.
Anyway, for cheap/easy construction and performance wise you can't beat a simple straight ML-TL, so MJK's design is a good plan except with the vent exiting the rear if you don't want it visible and they aren't going to be up against the wall or near/at a corner. If so, then either a longer vent or vent damping (make it somewhat aperiodic) will ideally be required to roll off the speaker's response to compensate for the additional gain, or not if you like how it sounds. 😉
WRT MDF Vs void free plywood such as Baltic Birch, Appleply, or possibly marine grade (though it's no longer as good a grade as it once was, at least here in the USA), you want rigidity first and foremost for good electro-mechanical acoustic efficiency, so plywood is the 'no brainer' choice if you want the cab to be relatively light, otherwise with MDF's low MOE it will require very thick walls to match it. If you want the MDF's ease of finishing properties then glue a 1/4" 'veneer' of it to the plywood cab, which gets you a bit more rigidity/damping too.
GM
Thanks again everybody for your advices and help! 
OK I understand that it’s better not to do any changes since I’m not an expert on speakers.
I don’t have a big problem that the port is visible. So no problem if I’ll leave it at the front of the enclosure. I also can’t put it at the back cause speakers will be very close at rear walls and corners. My listening room isn’t too big. The only thing that I’d like to do is to place the drivers at ~ears level. I suppose that I can do this by placing a nice base at the bottom of the speakers, right? 😉
GM,
Nice to see you here!
I would like very much to build Jordan MLTL project. If you remember they were my first choice when I was thinking to build my first FR speakers. But they’re low efficiency disappointed me. And I was felt in love with Jordans and yours MLTL design!
But I’m listening with tube amps that are 10 to 25 watts. So no Jordans for me! 
That’s why I’m going with FE206E.
I don’t now if this is discussed before in another forum but what do you say to use Jordan MLTL enclosure with Fostex FE206E driver? Maybe with some small changes to the cabinet can be suitable.... As you can see I’m still in love!! 🙂
OK I understand that it’s better not to do any changes since I’m not an expert on speakers.
I don’t have a big problem that the port is visible. So no problem if I’ll leave it at the front of the enclosure. I also can’t put it at the back cause speakers will be very close at rear walls and corners. My listening room isn’t too big. The only thing that I’d like to do is to place the drivers at ~ears level. I suppose that I can do this by placing a nice base at the bottom of the speakers, right? 😉
GM,
Nice to see you here!
I would like very much to build Jordan MLTL project. If you remember they were my first choice when I was thinking to build my first FR speakers. But they’re low efficiency disappointed me. And I was felt in love with Jordans and yours MLTL design!
But I’m listening with tube amps that are 10 to 25 watts. So no Jordans for me! That’s why I’m going with FE206E.I don’t now if this is discussed before in another forum but what do you say to use Jordan MLTL enclosure with Fostex FE206E driver? Maybe with some small changes to the cabinet can be suitable.... As you can see I’m still in love!! 🙂
resident said:And I was felt in love with Jordans and yours MLTL design!
They are very nice looking speakers indeed. I would sell the tube amps and use the money to fund a pair of Jordans and a decent GC chip amp 😉 - Jordans in TLs and GCs are a very good match according to some.
Umm I love tubes, too. 😀
My amp, my preamp, my phono are all with tubes. I don't sell them, though!
My amp, my preamp, my phono are all with tubes. I don't sell them, though!
resident said:My amp, my preamp, my phono are all with tubes. I don't sell them, though!
No, I was just kidding - I have a tube buffered gainclone so I know a little bit about the 'tube' sound. However, I really don't see that there would be a problem with your tube amps and the Jordans if they (the Jordans) can work so well with a 15-25 watt GC.
10 watts might be too little but a good 25 watt amp should be able to drive the JX92S just fine. It's not THAT inefficient.
Greets!
>I suppose that I can do this by placing a nice base at the bottom of the speakers, right?
====
That's one way to do it.
====
>GM,
Nice to see you here!
====
Thanks! Unfortunately, I have an increasingly limited amount of time to spend on the forums.
====
>I would like very much to build Jordan MLTL project. If you remember they were my first choice when I was thinking to build my first FR speakers. But they’re low efficiency disappointed me. And I was felt in love with Jordans and yours MLTL design! But I’m listening with tube amps that are 10 to 25 watts. So no Jordans for me! That’s why I’m going with FE206E.
====
The physics of sound reproduction has been confirmed by too many accurate measurements over the decades to dispute the theory/math, but according to some other's listening preferences and their OPINION that my minimum power requirement recommendations are more a function of their OPINION that I listen at too loud an average SPL say otherwise, so build the Jordans and compare them with various output/topology amps to find out what sounds best to you.
====
>I don’t now if this is discussed before in another forum but what do you say to use Jordan MLTL enclosure with Fostex FE206E driver? Maybe with some small changes to the cabinet can be suitable.... As you can see I’m still in love!!
====
Glad you like them so much! I really have to audition a pair one of these days.
This cab is way too small for generating any real LF output, but works OK if the vent is shortened (try just a baffle depth hole first) and a total of ~3 ohms of series R is used. Half space efficiency will be ~93dB, but the F3 will only be ~70Hz. Of course due to the much larger driver size, the width/depth dims will have to be adjusted to suit, and it will help performance if you make the CSA 40"^2 and shift the driver down to 12.43".
If the original vent design is used, it will have to be corner loaded to have any midbass/LF output since it will be tuned down near Fs.
GM
>I suppose that I can do this by placing a nice base at the bottom of the speakers, right?
====
That's one way to do it.
====
>GM,
Nice to see you here!
====
Thanks! Unfortunately, I have an increasingly limited amount of time to spend on the forums.
====
>I would like very much to build Jordan MLTL project. If you remember they were my first choice when I was thinking to build my first FR speakers. But they’re low efficiency disappointed me. And I was felt in love with Jordans and yours MLTL design! But I’m listening with tube amps that are 10 to 25 watts. So no Jordans for me! That’s why I’m going with FE206E.
====
The physics of sound reproduction has been confirmed by too many accurate measurements over the decades to dispute the theory/math, but according to some other's listening preferences and their OPINION that my minimum power requirement recommendations are more a function of their OPINION that I listen at too loud an average SPL say otherwise, so build the Jordans and compare them with various output/topology amps to find out what sounds best to you.
====
>I don’t now if this is discussed before in another forum but what do you say to use Jordan MLTL enclosure with Fostex FE206E driver? Maybe with some small changes to the cabinet can be suitable.... As you can see I’m still in love!!
====
Glad you like them so much! I really have to audition a pair one of these days.
This cab is way too small for generating any real LF output, but works OK if the vent is shortened (try just a baffle depth hole first) and a total of ~3 ohms of series R is used. Half space efficiency will be ~93dB, but the F3 will only be ~70Hz. Of course due to the much larger driver size, the width/depth dims will have to be adjusted to suit, and it will help performance if you make the CSA 40"^2 and shift the driver down to 12.43".
If the original vent design is used, it will have to be corner loaded to have any midbass/LF output since it will be tuned down near Fs.
GM
So why not to go with Jordan?!?!But now I have another problem.I don't know which design to choose.
I also find attractive 😱 the 48" MLTL.What do you say?
Sorry but... what does YMMV mean? I'm not going well with all these! 
So go with yours design? Why you don't recommend the 48" design? 😕
amp for ff85k
Hi,all!
Can anybody tell me, how
much maximum power with ,I can drive speakers with ff85k. I have DIY amp 17W pc.
Hi,all!
Can anybody tell me, how
much maximum power with ,I can drive speakers with ff85k. I have DIY amp 17W pc.
Re: amp for ff85k
It's always safer to have more power than you need than less. Powe ratings on home hifi speakers are something not to pay much attention to.
dave
tame said:
It's always safer to have more power than you need than less. Powe ratings on home hifi speakers are something not to pay much attention to.
dave
No i have build teh PT 1600 MKII
its a ML TL too
with the Fostex FE 167 E
and they sound wonderfull
after burning in 300 - 400 hours
its a ML TL too
with the Fostex FE 167 E
and they sound wonderfull
after burning in 300 - 400 hours
I can't decide which project to build. 
Now I'm with a 12W 6L6GC amp.In the beginning it was a 20W but I like it better sonically as I have rebuild it right now.
But 12W with Jordan? 😕 I think that I must build MJK's design?
It's also less expensive.
I'm also wondering what kind of differences I will have btw Ariel ME2 and a FR project (GM's or MJK's)?
Which speaker set is more bass-shy?
Now I'm with a 12W 6L6GC amp.In the beginning it was a 20W but I like it better sonically as I have rebuild it right now.
But 12W with Jordan? 😕 I think that I must build MJK's design?
It's also less expensive.
I'm also wondering what kind of differences I will have btw Ariel ME2 and a FR project (GM's or MJK's)?
Which speaker set is more bass-shy?
You want "low" budget and arrived at building a 12W tube amp.
I´d guess the Fostex FE-167E would be a nice match.
Like weidok I´d recommend the FT-1600 from Bob Brines.
http://geocities.com/rbrines1/
Haven´t heard them but the FE167E in 15l-BR. Nice!
I´d guess the Fostex FE-167E would be a nice match.
Like weidok I´d recommend the FT-1600 from Bob Brines.
http://geocities.com/rbrines1/
Haven´t heard them but the FE167E in 15l-BR. Nice!
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