I've been lurking on here for a while and this is my first post and first speaker build.
I have decided to build 5.1 system using the Digger 8 subwoofer and Helium micromonitors.
I decided to make a downwards firing design and to fit a fabric cover over the PR which also wraps around to the front.
I planned the build using Solidworks.
Bought a Bosch router and a cheap version of a Jasper circle jig which seems to work quite well.
I didn't cut the panels very accurately or get the panels lined up particularly well so there were some gaps which I filled and sanded using car body filler.
Added the washers to the PR and assembled it all. It sounds good so far.
Waiting for the cloth and teak veneer to arrive now.
.
I have decided to build 5.1 system using the Digger 8 subwoofer and Helium micromonitors.
I decided to make a downwards firing design and to fit a fabric cover over the PR which also wraps around to the front.
I planned the build using Solidworks.
Bought a Bosch router and a cheap version of a Jasper circle jig which seems to work quite well.
I didn't cut the panels very accurately or get the panels lined up particularly well so there were some gaps which I filled and sanded using car body filler.
Added the washers to the PR and assembled it all. It sounds good so far.
Waiting for the cloth and teak veneer to arrive now.
.
Got the teak veneer applied. First time doing it and didn't make a particularly great job of it but looks ok from a distance.
Good looking project.
One way I've found to get good cut accuracy if you haven't got a table saw is to draw the panel onto wood, then cut around it but a couple mm outside of the line with a skillsaw / jigsaw.
Then clamp/screw a straight edge to the lines drawn on the panel and use a flush trim router bit to finish. With this method I can get far more accurate than my plungesaw (admittedly not the best brand)
With this method you can also use one side of the cabinet to make the other, ensuring they are exactly the same.
Rob.
One way I've found to get good cut accuracy if you haven't got a table saw is to draw the panel onto wood, then cut around it but a couple mm outside of the line with a skillsaw / jigsaw.
Then clamp/screw a straight edge to the lines drawn on the panel and use a flush trim router bit to finish. With this method I can get far more accurate than my plungesaw (admittedly not the best brand)
With this method you can also use one side of the cabinet to make the other, ensuring they are exactly the same.
Rob.
That's what I wish I'd done and what I'll be doing for the Heliums that I'm currently making to complete the 5.1 system.
When they are complete, I might make the sub box again, MDF is cheap enough (if I can manage to get hold of any during the lockdown).
When they are complete, I might make the sub box again, MDF is cheap enough (if I can manage to get hold of any during the lockdown).
Looks great, good work ! I'd never heard of the digger 8 before, cool design.
What plate amp is that ? Also, where did you get your Dayton PR from in UK ? soundimports ?
What plate amp is that ? Also, where did you get your Dayton PR from in UK ? soundimports ?
Here is the thread about the Digger 8. The guy who designed it wanted to get an F3 of 20Hz from the smallest enclosure.
Digger8 Sub - diggity dig it all the way to 20Hz -
Techtalk Speaker Building, Audio, Video Discussion Forum
It's a Monacor SAM 300D plate amp that I got from Amazon. The difference between that and the plate amps available in America from Parts Express, is that it has a 30Hz low frequency filter built in. So the bass starts to roll off from 30Hz limiting what the subwoofer is capable of. It can be modified but this involves changing the value of two SMD capacitors on the circuit board which means I need to learn and practice how to remove and solder SMDs.
I got the Dayton PR from Audiophonics - Produits Hi-Fi Audio Electroniques et DIY - Audiophonics. I think it was cheaper there.
It's a shame there isn't a website similar with as much choice as Parts Express in the UK.
