Thanks a lot for the kind words!
The top is one piece bent in two places making a |_| type shape. That is then screwed in four different places.
As for the Press N' Peel, I experimented with several different iron on products. I tried these "special transparencies" that I think were just regular transparencies that I was over charged for. They turned out really poorly...blotches everywhere, loose toner, etc etc. I had heard that regular transparencies work too so I tried some of those...same results...really crappy. I basically had to go over everything with a pcb pen which kind of defeats the purpose of doing the hole iron on thing. My friend also tried photo quality paper and had the same results. Press N' Peel (you still have to iron it on) was AMAZING (compared to everything else I tried). I made about 5 PCBs with it and each one came out nearly perfect each time...one or two minute blotches missing. I say that the cost is worth it...especially since you can get 4+ amp pcbs on one sheet.
The top is one piece bent in two places making a |_| type shape. That is then screwed in four different places.
As for the Press N' Peel, I experimented with several different iron on products. I tried these "special transparencies" that I think were just regular transparencies that I was over charged for. They turned out really poorly...blotches everywhere, loose toner, etc etc. I had heard that regular transparencies work too so I tried some of those...same results...really crappy. I basically had to go over everything with a pcb pen which kind of defeats the purpose of doing the hole iron on thing. My friend also tried photo quality paper and had the same results. Press N' Peel (you still have to iron it on) was AMAZING (compared to everything else I tried). I made about 5 PCBs with it and each one came out nearly perfect each time...one or two minute blotches missing. I say that the cost is worth it...especially since you can get 4+ amp pcbs on one sheet.
r0cket- said:
I took it to a machine shop in Berkeley and asked the guy to use his bending break. He did it for me for free. The top panel is 1/16 inch thick which means you can get a pretty good radius of curvature. Any thicker and it's tough to get a crisp corner.
JCoffey said:
What size? Physically? It's +-25 volt RMS. It's probably about 4 inches in diameter...maybe 2.something tall? Check out www.plitron.com. I used a standard power transformer. Hope that helps.
The 47uF cap ensures unity gain for DC.
This works for any opamp.
It´s mentioned in the datasheet for the LM3886 as well.
Cheers
Jens
This works for any opamp.
It´s mentioned in the datasheet for the LM3886 as well.
Cheers
Jens
The part number for the transformer I used is 067016201.
With regard to the 47 uF, it does insure unity gain but I chose 47 uF instead of 22 uF because 47 uF will move the pole to the lower frequency range thus increasing bass response. I thought that the 22 uF was bass light so I increased the cap value. In theory, you could put a huge cap there but there's no sense in passing frequencies like 1 hz to your speaker.
With regard to the 47 uF, it does insure unity gain but I chose 47 uF instead of 22 uF because 47 uF will move the pole to the lower frequency range thus increasing bass response. I thought that the 22 uF was bass light so I increased the cap value. In theory, you could put a huge cap there but there's no sense in passing frequencies like 1 hz to your speaker.
Your First Amplifer
Hi,
I should congratulate for your first amplifier. It looks amazing and real real professional. How could you manage the project with such a great accuracy. Hats off to you.
In fact even I am planning to do one amplifier of that sort. So please give me the inputs necessary. I am from india and would like the solutions which are viable here. If you would like to share.
Regards,
avguy🙂
Hi,
I should congratulate for your first amplifier. It looks amazing and real real professional. How could you manage the project with such a great accuracy. Hats off to you.
In fact even I am planning to do one amplifier of that sort. So please give me the inputs necessary. I am from india and would like the solutions which are viable here. If you would like to share.
Regards,
avguy🙂
avguy said:
Thanks a lot for the kind words avguy! As far as advice I have, I'm not sure what to tell you. I have SolidWorks drawings for all the case parts if you would like those as well as PCB artwork that I'd be glad to share. What type of soultions are not viable in India? I'd assume you can get everything you need either in India or sent to you...there's nothing too fancy inside
😉 . Let me know if you'd like any of the files or if you have any other questions.
Doovieman
Your Wonderful Amplifer
Thanks for your reply. I would like to get all the details about the amplifier so that I will try it out if I am able to get the components. I also would like to know about the protection provided for this amplifier in the circuit. Please send the same as I will try it out.
😎
Anand
Thanks for your reply. I would like to get all the details about the amplifier so that I will try it out if I am able to get the components. I also would like to know about the protection provided for this amplifier in the circuit. Please send the same as I will try it out.
😎
Anand
I wouldnt mind getting a copy of your PCB artwork and the case drawings if you wouldnt mind too much since thats pretty much the same setup I've been looking to do.
I'll send all the PCB artwork/CAD drawings to anyone who wants them this weekend...problem sets, labs, and exams call...gotta love being a student 😉 As far as protection, I use an inline fuse on the AC and two fuses on the DC (one per each rail). I can send a schematic of the powersupply circuit as well if people are interested.
Doovieman
Doovieman
heu thanks...
put me on you rlist..
I finished a Balanced lien stage and SOZ.
But i have a few more places that I would like to provide with some music 🙂 !!
Thanks in advance....
Jean-Pierre
by the way very nice job !
put me on you rlist..
I finished a Balanced lien stage and SOZ.
But i have a few more places that I would like to provide with some music 🙂 !!
Thanks in advance....
Jean-Pierre
by the way very nice job !
Details of your amplifier
Hi,
Take it cool. You would be very busy with your tests and all those things. Please send me once you find time. And regarding the design what topology have you followed ? Meaning what kind of design is your amp ? I will be waiting for your reply.
😎
avguy
Hi,
Take it cool. You would be very busy with your tests and all those things. Please send me once you find time. And regarding the design what topology have you followed ? Meaning what kind of design is your amp ? I will be waiting for your reply.
😎
avguy
Excellent work
Hi Doovieman,
Thanks for sharing your first project with us. Excellent results, especailly for you first.
A couple of questions.
1. Are fuses on the PSU slow blow?
2. Have you tried it without fuses?
3. Have you noticed any problem having the output terminals so close to the power input and switch.
4. Have you tried reducing the PSU caps. I've tried 10,000uF and 0uF so far and have stuck with 0uF.
Thanks
Greg
Hi Doovieman,
Thanks for sharing your first project with us. Excellent results, especailly for you first.
A couple of questions.
1. Are fuses on the PSU slow blow?
2. Have you tried it without fuses?
3. Have you noticed any problem having the output terminals so close to the power input and switch.
4. Have you tried reducing the PSU caps. I've tried 10,000uF and 0uF so far and have stuck with 0uF.
Thanks
Greg
Re: Excellent work
I have a total of three fuses on the PSU circuit. One fast blow 3A on the AC and two slow blow 3A on each DC rail. I have not tried it with out fuses. Out of curiosity, why do you ask? I've had no problems whatsoever with the proximity of the binding posts to the switch/ac. As far as the PSU caps, I tried 1000 uF, 1500 uF, and 6000 uF. In this case, the bigger the better. The purpose of the caps is to act as a tank cap to reduce 60 hz or 50 hz (depending on what part of the world you're from) in the DC. They are crucial in my opinion. I'm really surprise to hear that you're not using any caps from DC to ground and that it works well. Anyway, if anyone else wants files, email me.
Doovieman
grege said:
I have a total of three fuses on the PSU circuit. One fast blow 3A on the AC and two slow blow 3A on each DC rail. I have not tried it with out fuses. Out of curiosity, why do you ask? I've had no problems whatsoever with the proximity of the binding posts to the switch/ac. As far as the PSU caps, I tried 1000 uF, 1500 uF, and 6000 uF. In this case, the bigger the better. The purpose of the caps is to act as a tank cap to reduce 60 hz or 50 hz (depending on what part of the world you're from) in the DC. They are crucial in my opinion. I'm really surprise to hear that you're not using any caps from DC to ground and that it works well. Anyway, if anyone else wants files, email me.
Doovieman
Should be a typo...and I dun really like fuses on the rails...if one blows...and the other does not...there might be DC on the outputs...ar...ur speakers will go next...
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