an article in the most recent issue of Fine Woodworking comes out very strongly in favor of disposable foam brushes (as contrast with bristle brushes which now cost $50 for best quality.)
Some hints;
1) finish the surface with a 220 grit paper, wipe or vacuum off sawdust. if using an water based finish DO NOT use a tack cloth to remove dust as traces of resin left behind will interfere with the application.
2) decant a few ounces of finish into a plastic cup or beaker wide enough to accomodate the brust. this prevents premature evaporation.
3) dip the brush ONLY 1/4 inch into the finish -- do not allow the brush to become saturated (causes bubble problems.)
4) use only one side of the brush for finish application -- by doing this the brush will not accumulate dust.
5) it is helpful to illuminate the surface with an incandescent at a 45 degree angle -- this will show up mistakes.
And of course, check first to make sure that the foam brush is not attacked by the finish you are using. Lacquers with volatile solvents shouldn't be used with foam brushes.
Some hints;
1) finish the surface with a 220 grit paper, wipe or vacuum off sawdust. if using an water based finish DO NOT use a tack cloth to remove dust as traces of resin left behind will interfere with the application.
2) decant a few ounces of finish into a plastic cup or beaker wide enough to accomodate the brust. this prevents premature evaporation.
3) dip the brush ONLY 1/4 inch into the finish -- do not allow the brush to become saturated (causes bubble problems.)
4) use only one side of the brush for finish application -- by doing this the brush will not accumulate dust.
5) it is helpful to illuminate the surface with an incandescent at a 45 degree angle -- this will show up mistakes.
And of course, check first to make sure that the foam brush is not attacked by the finish you are using. Lacquers with volatile solvents shouldn't be used with foam brushes.
Thanks so much for sharing that. I hope to finish construction on my cabinets and begin finishing in a few weeks.
Are these tips just for varnishes and urethanes or will foam brushes work on shellac too ? Also, I wonder what stains will work well on Baltic Birch ?
I'm very new to wood finishing; any links where I can learn more ?
Are these tips just for varnishes and urethanes or will foam brushes work on shellac too ? Also, I wonder what stains will work well on Baltic Birch ?
I'm very new to wood finishing; any links where I can learn more ?
Baltic Birch will take virtually any stain -- I wouldn't use shellac, however -- while it is nice for furniture it can't take a lot of abuse and if someone spills booze or perfume on it you have a refinishing job.
from being a real devotee of woodworking, i have now reverted to philistinism so I use Minwax finishes all the time -- they don't dissapoint.
from being a real devotee of woodworking, i have now reverted to philistinism so I use Minwax finishes all the time -- they don't dissapoint.
I always use a conditioner on soft woods...
http://www.minwax.com/products/woodprep/prestain.cfm
Foam brushes are the best. Great for boat work & varnish. In the shop, I will trough them in a baggy and into the freezer for the next days use.
http://www.minwax.com/products/woodprep/prestain.cfm
Foam brushes are the best. Great for boat work & varnish. In the shop, I will trough them in a baggy and into the freezer for the next days use.
Well, IMHO, those foam brushes are terrible. Bubbles are an issue, and they are physically weak enough that if you are not careful, you can snap the stem inside the foam. I used them for a while, but then moved on to those cheap nylon disposable brushes from Wal-Mart. $CDN0.97 each, no bubbles, toss 'em when you are done. 
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