Hey gang!
I just finished my first DIY speakers, a set of Shamrock Audio's SE-1s.
www.lunenfeld.com/speakers.asp
Since I'm a newbie, I wanted to document my work so the next first time builder could get something out of what I did.
And, if any of you experts would like to give criticism or make comments, I'd welcome the input.
Thanks,
Pete
I just finished my first DIY speakers, a set of Shamrock Audio's SE-1s.
www.lunenfeld.com/speakers.asp
Since I'm a newbie, I wanted to document my work so the next first time builder could get something out of what I did.
And, if any of you experts would like to give criticism or make comments, I'd welcome the input.
Thanks,
Pete
Thanks Dustin and Jared!
As far as the cost, I don't have everything itemized, but it came out to about $375 for the actual materials used (wood, electronics, wire, misc parts, glue, stain, etc.) This includes the shipping on the mail order stuff and the plans.
If I was to do it all again, it would likely be cheaper since I overbought on some stuff. For example, I was anxious to do my baffles and the Home Depot near me only had a single red oak 1" x 12" x 8' piece for $50. If I was willing to wait, or drive a little further I could have bought two 1" x 12" x 24" pieces for $20 or so.
I may have also spent too much on some of the crossover components. Whenever I was faced with a decision, I always erred on the slightly more expensive side. But that tends to add up.
I did spend a bit on tools (I had almost nothing), but I don't count these in the cost since I will certainly use the tools again. But, since you asked I bought:
- Biscuit Jointer (Lowes)
- Jasper Circle Jig (Parts Express)
- Router bits, crimper, hole saws, sand paper, etc.
about $300
- I was lucky enough to borrow a table saw.
And why didn't I use spade connectors?
Answer: DOH!!! That's why I'm a newbie...
As far as the cost, I don't have everything itemized, but it came out to about $375 for the actual materials used (wood, electronics, wire, misc parts, glue, stain, etc.) This includes the shipping on the mail order stuff and the plans.
If I was to do it all again, it would likely be cheaper since I overbought on some stuff. For example, I was anxious to do my baffles and the Home Depot near me only had a single red oak 1" x 12" x 8' piece for $50. If I was willing to wait, or drive a little further I could have bought two 1" x 12" x 24" pieces for $20 or so.
I may have also spent too much on some of the crossover components. Whenever I was faced with a decision, I always erred on the slightly more expensive side. But that tends to add up.
I did spend a bit on tools (I had almost nothing), but I don't count these in the cost since I will certainly use the tools again. But, since you asked I bought:
- Biscuit Jointer (Lowes)
- Jasper Circle Jig (Parts Express)
- Router bits, crimper, hole saws, sand paper, etc.
about $300
- I was lucky enough to borrow a table saw.
And why didn't I use spade connectors?
Answer: DOH!!! That's why I'm a newbie...
it works fine without spades
and it may work better.
less is more - when it comes anything in the signal path.
My cables are soldered direct to the drivers and outboard crossovers on the speaker end.
If I need to move the speaker, I just undo the cables at the amp.
BTW, the connections at the amp are made by simply tinning the ends of the cables.
My rodium plated spades, gold plated banana plugs, etc. are sitting in my unused parts bin.
Less in the signal path, and not going to oxidize or loosen.
Nice job alphageek , _very_ nice, particularly fo someone who has never done any of the above!
Ken L
and it may work better.
less is more - when it comes anything in the signal path.
My cables are soldered direct to the drivers and outboard crossovers on the speaker end.
If I need to move the speaker, I just undo the cables at the amp.
BTW, the connections at the amp are made by simply tinning the ends of the cables.
My rodium plated spades, gold plated banana plugs, etc. are sitting in my unused parts bin.
Less in the signal path, and not going to oxidize or loosen.
Nice job alphageek , _very_ nice, particularly fo someone who has never done any of the above!
Ken L
You are right Jared, my using the ring sleeves soldered to the drivers was my solution to a 'quick connect'. I would have used spades if I had known about them. Since I wasn't sure these were even going to produce sound I wanted to be sure that I had easy access to make changes.
But thanks Ken for your thoughts, I'm sure that less _is_ better.
But thanks Ken for your thoughts, I'm sure that less _is_ better.
How do they sound?How do they sound?
Well, to be honest, since this is my first set of speakers I was ecstatic that ANY sound came out the front at all! It took a while for the adreneline to subside for me to be objective.
I'd say they sound very good. They have nice bass extension, and a very wide and laid back presentation which I like. I have a very bright room and many speakers get fatiguing very quickly, however these are much more pleasant and easy going.
I also have a pair of B&W 602s which are about the same size, and I think the SE-1s sound as good or better. The B&Ws in contrast are 'warmer' where the SE-1s sound much more neutral. And that is a good thing!
The only thing I have noticed is a bit of 'tizzz' in the lower treble. But it really comes and goes depending on the recording. Female vocals (Fiona Apple, Diana Krall) are outstanding, and so is acoustic guitar (Paco De Lucia). I only hear the tizz on some rock records like Led Zeppelin's remaster of LZ II and the Stone Temple Pilots, so I'm not sure that I'm not just hearing what's on the recording.
I wish I could be more clear, this is hard to describe isn't it?
Well, to be honest, since this is my first set of speakers I was ecstatic that ANY sound came out the front at all! It took a while for the adreneline to subside for me to be objective.
I'd say they sound very good. They have nice bass extension, and a very wide and laid back presentation which I like. I have a very bright room and many speakers get fatiguing very quickly, however these are much more pleasant and easy going.
I also have a pair of B&W 602s which are about the same size, and I think the SE-1s sound as good or better. The B&Ws in contrast are 'warmer' where the SE-1s sound much more neutral. And that is a good thing!
The only thing I have noticed is a bit of 'tizzz' in the lower treble. But it really comes and goes depending on the recording. Female vocals (Fiona Apple, Diana Krall) are outstanding, and so is acoustic guitar (Paco De Lucia). I only hear the tizz on some rock records like Led Zeppelin's remaster of LZ II and the Stone Temple Pilots, so I'm not sure that I'm not just hearing what's on the recording.
I wish I could be more clear, this is hard to describe isn't it?
Hi
The tizziness you hear is due to an internal reflection within the tweeter itself. I've heard about some mods that will releive it to some degree, but I don't remember where to find them.
It is an inherent trait of the D27TG-45 that was used in the SE-1. I was better able to mask it in the SE-2, though.
At some point I may re-engineer both the SE-1 & SE-2, but I just don't have the time right now.
Anyway, good to see you here, Pete, and you really did do a great job your first time out!
The tizziness you hear is due to an internal reflection within the tweeter itself. I've heard about some mods that will releive it to some degree, but I don't remember where to find them.
It is an inherent trait of the D27TG-45 that was used in the SE-1. I was better able to mask it in the SE-2, though.
At some point I may re-engineer both the SE-1 & SE-2, but I just don't have the time right now.
Anyway, good to see you here, Pete, and you really did do a great job your first time out!
Fantastic job on the finish there mate. My first SE1s were raw MDF which never got painted, and swelled - but there was plenty of shiny screws in there and I got many compliments on the industrial look
The bass is deep, and the midrange clear, the top end doesn't have as quite the same finesse as my Eire's. Of course, that's all subjective, and I have a 20db notch in my hearing at 3khz so hey don't take my word for it, but IMHO they cut the mustard for the price.
The bass is deep, and the midrange clear, the top end doesn't have as quite the same finesse as my Eire's. Of course, that's all subjective, and I have a 20db notch in my hearing at 3khz so hey don't take my word for it, but IMHO they cut the mustard for the price.
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