^^^^^ THAT.
Also show a gut picture and describe your fault.
Like Enzo says, in principle it should be 90% of what the older versions are, only substituting TDA2050 for no longer available TDA1514
And TDA2050 would be used basically like the datasheet, with minor changes, so that also is a useful guide.
Another difference might be in the compressor/limiter, since CA3080 is also obsolete, but that section might still work.
Again, describe your problem
FWIW this is version 1: https://elektrotanya.com/fender_rumble_25_schematic_rev-a.pdf/download.html
Should help
Also show a gut picture and describe your fault.
Like Enzo says, in principle it should be 90% of what the older versions are, only substituting TDA2050 for no longer available TDA1514
And TDA2050 would be used basically like the datasheet, with minor changes, so that also is a useful guide.
Another difference might be in the compressor/limiter, since CA3080 is also obsolete, but that section might still work.
Again, describe your problem
FWIW this is version 1: https://elektrotanya.com/fender_rumble_25_schematic_rev-a.pdf/download.html
Should help
But your post #5 "signal in input it is low .... CD /AUX input works fine..." implies that the problem is not the 2050/1514, but before that. In the guitar preamp.
I do not see a knob/pot or anything on the schematic labeled "Overdrive"? I do see a button and an LED on a picture of the Rumble 25.
Watching the YT video you showed:
So far:
1) it is very different from the older ones we know, just having "Distortion" alone tells us preamp is different;
2) another big difference: it has a switching power supply.
3) The TDA2050 is, surprisingly, the "easiest" part, since it´s a widely known IC and they probably used something very similar to datasheet example, so ....
4) The Guitologist obviously has the proper schematic, why don´t you ask him for a copy?
And then we may help you better.
Ok, I´ll keep watching YT video; if I see anything else, I´ll update this answer, but insist on you asking for the schematic, TG got his somehow.
EDIT 1: watching 12:28 and hey!!! he has already shown 90% or more of the schematic.
I suggest you stop video at proper moments and hand draw it, it won´t take long, then up,load it here for revision if you have doubts.
Edit 2:d o same as him, inject audio at input and follow it along TP## testpoints
So far:
1) it is very different from the older ones we know, just having "Distortion" alone tells us preamp is different;
2) another big difference: it has a switching power supply.
3) The TDA2050 is, surprisingly, the "easiest" part, since it´s a widely known IC and they probably used something very similar to datasheet example, so ....
4) The Guitologist obviously has the proper schematic, why don´t you ask him for a copy?
And then we may help you better.
Ok, I´ll keep watching YT video; if I see anything else, I´ll update this answer, but insist on you asking for the schematic, TG got his somehow.
EDIT 1: watching 12:28 and hey!!! he has already shown 90% or more of the schematic.
I suggest you stop video at proper moments and hand draw it, it won´t take long, then up,load it here for revision if you have doubts.
Edit 2:d o same as him, inject audio at input and follow it along TP## testpoints
Last edited:
WHAT kind of monster powerhouse does he think a TDA2050 is?
Specially in the MI World where the reference SPL is a drummer
And driving a low efficiency 10" Bass speaker?
That is a study/bedroom amp, barely adequate for garage practice.
If that much, once a drummer gets in the picture, all bets are off.
Specially in the MI World where the reference SPL is a drummer
And driving a low efficiency 10" Bass speaker?
That is a study/bedroom amp, barely adequate for garage practice.
If that much, once a drummer gets in the picture, all bets are off.
Can anyone help .... I bought a Fender Rumble 25 ... seller said it hadn't been used and it looks brand new ... 8 weeks later its blown. The chip or resistor R309 has completely burnt out. Im trying to find out exactly what the component is and what uts value is.
Fender won't repair or supply parts.
I'm guessing this can be repaired by replacing the component
See pics attached.
Any help will be appreciated
Fender won't repair or supply parts.
I'm guessing this can be repaired by replacing the component
See pics attached.
Any help will be appreciated
Attachments
Sorry Coult, guess nobody can help you it being an SMPS unit and NOT having a schematic.
Even if, Fender has a long list of <200U$ products (including much larger FM212 amp) in a so called "DNR: Do Not Repair" list. Serious.
They will NOT pay a Service Tech to repair it nor supply parts (doesn´t it sound crazy?) ; IF within Warranty period they will give you a new one; if outside ... may God help you.
Spell the word d.i.s.p.o.s.a.b.l.e
All you have today is a cabinet, a speaker, and a chassis; not even a power transformer (which would be useful in another project)
IF you are so inclined, and hate wasting stuff, (I do), you can turn it into a powered cabinet to be used with an outsde pedalboard or pedal preamp, just gut/empty the chassis and fit inside an EBay generic power amplifier, say a TPA3118 or similar, which can be fed from an old/surplus/cheap 19V notebook power supply.
Even if, Fender has a long list of <200U$ products (including much larger FM212 amp) in a so called "DNR: Do Not Repair" list. Serious.
They will NOT pay a Service Tech to repair it nor supply parts (doesn´t it sound crazy?) ; IF within Warranty period they will give you a new one; if outside ... may God help you.
Spell the word d.i.s.p.o.s.a.b.l.e
All you have today is a cabinet, a speaker, and a chassis; not even a power transformer (which would be useful in another project)
IF you are so inclined, and hate wasting stuff, (I do), you can turn it into a powered cabinet to be used with an outsde pedalboard or pedal preamp, just gut/empty the chassis and fit inside an EBay generic power amplifier, say a TPA3118 or similar, which can be fed from an old/surplus/cheap 19V notebook power supply.
Here is the schematic of the amp, SPMS included.
Hola JM,¿Quizás todavía podamos ayudar?
Maybe we can help. Let's have a look at the schematic and the bad components...
R309 is a 10K resistor.
I would say to chack the value of R310, R333, R314 and R315. Also the diode D306.
Do not replace these parts and switch the unit on without coming back here.
Good luck.
Hola JM,¿Quizás todavía podamos ayudar?
Maybe we can help. Let's have a look at the schematic and the bad components...
R309 is a 10K resistor.
I would say to chack the value of R310, R333, R314 and R315. Also the diode D306.
Do not replace these parts and switch the unit on without coming back here.
Good luck.