BOB, the Big Open Baffle Project, is on track. The writing on the
first installment (one of several) is done, and I spent some time
last weekend tarting up the diagrams.
I plan to send it to AudioXpress, and of course they have a lead
time...
😎
first installment (one of several) is done, and I spent some time
last weekend tarting up the diagrams.
I plan to send it to AudioXpress, and of course they have a lead
time...
😎
Any chance that any of these articles will be about a SOB ?(Small Open baffle) 🙂
p.s. Oh, no, that't too sad....better call it KOB (Klein Open Baffle) 😀
And..off topic question: Have you tried multiple 8" speakers (as bass helpers)on a baffle versus one 15"? Was it worth it?
Regards,
Vix
p.s. Oh, no, that't too sad....better call it KOB (Klein Open Baffle) 😀
And..off topic question: Have you tried multiple 8" speakers (as bass helpers)on a baffle versus one 15"? Was it worth it?
Regards,
Vix
The work has included comparative measurements of different sizes and
draw a few conclusions on the subject. The smallest width baffle I have
played with is 16".
And as to multiple 8", I have tried up to 20 per side. They all work fine.
😎
draw a few conclusions on the subject. The smallest width baffle I have
played with is 16".
And as to multiple 8", I have tried up to 20 per side. They all work fine.
😎
Nelson Pass said:The work has included comparative measurements of different sizes and
draw a few conclusions on the subject. The smallest width baffle I have
played with is 16".
Good: that's my size 🙂
fff0 said:Hows the 16" baffle? Care to comment?
On the plus side, the smaller baffles tend to have a spacious sound and work
well with smaller rooms. On the minus side, they work the woofer harder,
require a higher crossover frequency, and suffer more from the cancellation
which occurs when the back of the driver is one wavelength from the front
of the driver. This cancellation is alleviated a bit if you offset the driver, but
then you cut into the apparent width and you start thinking about some sort
of side panel.
We took a pair of baffles like this to RMAF in 2007 with PM6A's and pairs
of SEAS W26 woofers, biamped and equalized. They worked well, but if
you have the space, a little bigger is better.
One thing you can do if you are constricted on width is make them a little
higher. I find baffles with the FR near the top edge are problematic, so I
usually think in terms of driver height at 3 ft or so and top edge at 5 ft, and
this gives a little more bandwidth to the FR.
😎
Nelson Pass said:One thing you can do if you are constricted on width is make them a little
higher. I find baffles with the FR near the top edge are problematic, so I
usually think in terms of driver height at 3 ft or so and top edge at 5 ft, and
this gives a little more bandwidth to the FR.
😎
Yes!
That's what I did. Additional baffle height works like a little extra width in regard to the response curve.
From my simulations for 8" drivers about 30-40cm above the *driver center* looks the best.
Hi Nelson,
Thanks for sharing. 🙂
When you mentioned a little bigger is better, how big is a little bigger that you are referring to?
Whats the height of ur 16" baffle? If mine is the 5nf, wat will be the main things that I will need to look out?
For the pair of baffle at RMAF 07, can I know how did the guys managed on:
1) sensitivity difference? thru Active crossover or simply equalise it thru equaliser?
2) Time and phase alignment?
3) Are the woofers wired in parallel?
Above question can be reference to your system if you dont remember the RMAF configuration. Thanks in advance.
🙂
Thanks for sharing. 🙂
When you mentioned a little bigger is better, how big is a little bigger that you are referring to?
Whats the height of ur 16" baffle? If mine is the 5nf, wat will be the main things that I will need to look out?
For the pair of baffle at RMAF 07, can I know how did the guys managed on:
1) sensitivity difference? thru Active crossover or simply equalise it thru equaliser?
2) Time and phase alignment?
3) Are the woofers wired in parallel?
Above question can be reference to your system if you dont remember the RMAF configuration. Thanks in advance.
🙂
Hi Nelson,
Thank you for sharing. In the end, everything comes to BiB. Bigger is better , baffle too. However, with some sorts of music I can't get full enjoyment through my 50 cm wide OB's...
Ideally, I should have two set of speakers:
1. OB's
2. Horns (BIB's)
In your analogy that would be like having both BOB's and Klein Horns...😀 😉 😎
Thank you for sharing. In the end, everything comes to BiB. Bigger is better , baffle too. However, with some sorts of music I can't get full enjoyment through my 50 cm wide OB's...
Ideally, I should have two set of speakers:
1. OB's
2. Horns (BIB's)
In your analogy that would be like having both BOB's and Klein Horns...😀 😉 😎
Vix said:In the end, everything comes to BiB. Bigger is better , baffle too.
Actually it's my experience that an OB can be too big. I spent
quite a bit of time with my 6' high x 4' wide baffles and concluded that
they were too big. Cutting them down to 5' X 4' was a real improvement.
I think at least part of that is due to the ability to access more of the
rear wave's "illumination" of the back wall and reduced standing waves
between the baffle and the wall.
😎
Hey Nelson,
I had the pleasure of hearing your room at RMAF in '07 and I was really happy when I left your room. a real pleasure to listen to music in there, musical and chill . Again in '08, I was just loving your OB's but even better was meeting Colin and his generous expertise and sharing of info. Please thank him.
Do you plan to bring the Feastrex OB this year to RMAF? or maybe burning amp? Love to hear them...
I had the pleasure of hearing your room at RMAF in '07 and I was really happy when I left your room. a real pleasure to listen to music in there, musical and chill . Again in '08, I was just loving your OB's but even better was meeting Colin and his generous expertise and sharing of info. Please thank him.
Do you plan to bring the Feastrex OB this year to RMAF? or maybe burning amp? Love to hear them...
Thanks. We'll be there again. As we display with Lowther America,
you will not be surprised if Feastrex is not featured in our display.
😎
Burning Amp we might be able to manage.
you will not be surprised if Feastrex is not featured in our display.
😎
Burning Amp we might be able to manage.
Nelson, ask Jon to also bring his Lowther drivers treated with the EnABLe treatment. It is well worth the listen.
Retsel
Retsel
Hi
Compared with Lowther PM6A what is the major difference in sound?
And how much better are they? It is 5 times the price.
Compared with Lowther PM6A what is the major difference in sound?
And how much better are they? It is 5 times the price.
OK guys, Mr. Pass has well earned his success and I marvel at his products, but I have yet to hear a speaker with a whizzer cone, at any price, that sounds as good as a high quality dome properly matched to a good 6 or 8 inch driver. No that I have given up on full range, at age 73, I am still experimenting, seeking that grail of single driver sound. Mr. Pass let us know your results with the new drivers.
Interesting question.Hi
Compared with Lowther PM6A what is the major difference in sound?
And how much better are they? It is 5 times the price.
I have played with Fostex FE206EN several times and was never disappointed by listening tests.
Compared with this model what is in this case the major difference in sound ?
Hi Nelson,
Wonder if you are still favoring open baffles.
I have a couple of questions.
1) Did you consider / experiment with different baffle materials ?
I got a good result with a laminate of 1/2" MDF bonded with PVA to 3/4" concrete. This was my best baffle to date but I think 10mm Aluminum bonded to MDF or birch ply would also be a very good candidate. Bonding two dissimilar material seems to substantially cancel each of their resonances.
2) All OB speakers I have seen have the speaker placed centrally on the baffle but when experimenting with "edge" software it seems to me that the best arrangement is having the driver close to one edge and then adjusted vertically for the most linear response. But no one seems to do this - did I miss something ?
cheers
mike
Wonder if you are still favoring open baffles.
I have a couple of questions.
1) Did you consider / experiment with different baffle materials ?
I got a good result with a laminate of 1/2" MDF bonded with PVA to 3/4" concrete. This was my best baffle to date but I think 10mm Aluminum bonded to MDF or birch ply would also be a very good candidate. Bonding two dissimilar material seems to substantially cancel each of their resonances.
2) All OB speakers I have seen have the speaker placed centrally on the baffle but when experimenting with "edge" software it seems to me that the best arrangement is having the driver close to one edge and then adjusted vertically for the most linear response. But no one seems to do this - did I miss something ?
cheers
mike
The D9nf's are about $6000/pr from Lotus Distributing.
Wait.. What?

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