thanks dave,
that makes indeed very much sense, 10% water,
otherwise it would be just like poring a glass of water over it.
if you say that you should leave at least 6 hours between 2 second layer. does that also mean that the driver cannot work in between these paintings ?
i have red somewhere that after 30 minuten you can play the driver again.
(i know it is maybe a silly question willing to play it so fast after the 1 or 2 paintjob, but i wanna be clear in my tutorial
that makes indeed very much sense, 10% water,
otherwise it would be just like poring a glass of water over it.
if you say that you should leave at least 6 hours between 2 second layer. does that also mean that the driver cannot work in between these paintings ?
i have red somewhere that after 30 minuten you can play the driver again.
(i know it is maybe a silly question willing to play it so fast after the 1 or 2 paintjob, but i wanna be clear in my tutorial

It might be because my jar has set a while but even as thin as I've used it, brush strokes are evident by coat number 3.
Because this varies from product to product, some test strips to see how the final will look may be a needed part of the work flow.
I've thought of using a tiny sponge like is found in women's makup kits
but that would be another adventure. However the craft stores may have such a thing for a specific craft. I can't imagine that brush strokes are a good thing.
Because this varies from product to product, some test strips to see how the final will look may be a needed part of the work flow.
I've thought of using a tiny sponge like is found in women's makup kits
but that would be another adventure. However the craft stores may have such a thing for a specific craft. I can't imagine that brush strokes are a good thing.
well indeed, i have found a tool kit for mod podge in a hobby store, and it has a sponge in it.
i have tought about it to;
an airgun might solve the problem, but if you use strokes i think radial pattern is the way to go, you want the cone to move as a piston , so the radial lanes help with that
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
i have tought about it to;
an airgun might solve the problem, but if you use strokes i think radial pattern is the way to go, you want the cone to move as a piston , so the radial lanes help with that
loninappleton said:I can't imagine that brush strokes are a good thing.
Depends on the driver and what direction the brush strokes are in. On some drivers an array of radial strokes would act as a subtle cone stiffener ribs. I haven't found a way to completewly avoid them.
dave
It is good to know (given the lack of detail in net photos) that some brush strokes could be part of the job. My brief experience was that at the end of two rather than three coats, they could be avoided.
And I'll look into what sponges are available.
And I'll look into what sponges are available.
then_dude said:well indeed, i have found a tool kit for mod podge in a hobby store, and it has a sponge in it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
i have thought about it to;
an airgun might solve the problem, but if you use strokes i think radial pattern is the way to go, you want the cone to move as a piston , so the radial lanes help with that
I have some of these sponges (as shown) in a pack of cheap brushes.
What I'd be looking for is something that's tiny-- perhaps used in fine stencil work.
Speaking of stencils, I am curious to see what Dave submits for the Enabl thread on making the trifoil pattern for FE127e. This continues to vex me.
hello loninappleton
did you already hear something from ed ?
i'm still waiting on his reply for the kit.
thanks
@planet 10.
i'm thinking about adding a tweeter to my fe167e; although i haven't put in a phase plug which might make a big change, i wonder what you think about adding an extra help on the highs ? and what about phase difference and coherence. do you have good results on some setups ?
thanks
did you already hear something from ed ?
i'm still waiting on his reply for the kit.
thanks
@planet 10.
i'm thinking about adding a tweeter to my fe167e; although i haven't put in a phase plug which might make a big change, i wonder what you think about adding an extra help on the highs ? and what about phase difference and coherence. do you have good results on some setups ?
thanks
then_dude said:i'm thinking about adding a tweeter to my fe167e; although i haven't put in a phase plug which might make a big change, i wonder what you think about adding an extra help on the highs ? and what about phase difference and coherence. do you have good results on some setups ?
Only you'll be able to figure that out. I can live with or without. At the frequencies you are crossing, the ear, fortunately, is fairly insensitive.
dave
The order was just processed on Monday.
Maybe Friday or next Monday will be the day to receive the kit.
I can't recall if you were looking for A/B tests but if you haven't seen this, it is well written, clear and neutral in the testing procedure:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=136957&perpage=25&highlight=&pagenumber=1
Note: it is not specific the 167e. I am also using the 167e in one setup I have, however. That's what started me following your discussion.
Maybe Friday or next Monday will be the day to receive the kit.
I can't recall if you were looking for A/B tests but if you haven't seen this, it is well written, clear and neutral in the testing procedure:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=136957&perpage=25&highlight=&pagenumber=1
Note: it is not specific the 167e. I am also using the 167e in one setup I have, however. That's what started me following your discussion.
A little something that's back to the beginning of this thread:
http://www.diyaudio.rs/index.php?showtopic=190&pid=4459&st=0&#entry4459
Magura 🙂
http://www.diyaudio.rs/index.php?showtopic=190&pid=4459&st=0&#entry4459
Magura 🙂
thanks, if have looked at my users data, and saw that my email was still the old one, ed mailed me long time ago, OEPS, i'll get mine too.
thanks
thanks
Please excuse this offtopic question - new to the 167 driver.
Can this driver, EnABLed or not, Phase plug or not, be used as an open baffle driver from 200Hz up with a 12dB/oct X'over?
No doubt this has been covered before - can anyone advise where, please?
Can this driver, EnABLed or not, Phase plug or not, be used as an open baffle driver from 200Hz up with a 12dB/oct X'over?
No doubt this has been covered before - can anyone advise where, please?
enabled: yes
phase plug: yes
used as open baffle: yes
http://www.quarter-wave.com/OB_3_Drivers_2_25_08.pdf
greetz
phase plug: yes
used as open baffle: yes
http://www.quarter-wave.com/OB_3_Drivers_2_25_08.pdf
greetz
then_dude said:enabled: yes
phase plug: yes
used as open baffle: yes
http://www.quarter-wave.com/OB_3_Drivers_2_25_08.pdf
greetz
Greetings Peoples, just wondering if anyone has built or know of anyone who has built according to the above PDF. I'm assuming active because of the impedance mismatch b/w full range and the dual woofers?
cheers fergs
don't wanna be rude,
but if you wanna discus this very interesting topic, do it in a new thread, so people can jump in, nobody is gonna expect an open baffle discussion in this tread.
but, to hijack my own tread:
http://www.zelfbouwaudio.nl/forum/v...ys=0&postorder=asc&highlight=dipool&start=100
(it's dutch, but looks promising)
ps: the enable kit will be on its way soon. thanks ed.
but if you wanna discus this very interesting topic, do it in a new thread, so people can jump in, nobody is gonna expect an open baffle discussion in this tread.
but, to hijack my own tread:
http://www.zelfbouwaudio.nl/forum/v...ys=0&postorder=asc&highlight=dipool&start=100
(it's dutch, but looks promising)
ps: the enable kit will be on its way soon. thanks ed.
hello guys,
you never gonna believe, no mod podge in my country,
can anyone tell me what is in the mode podge ?
a decent chemist told me that it is polyutherane (at least that' s what i think he told me). He showed me a white glue. he says that is a sort of woodglue that is used for the napkins technique,
can anyone help me out, otherwise i have to ship this in at ridiculous shipping costs.
thanks
you never gonna believe, no mod podge in my country,
can anyone tell me what is in the mode podge ?
a decent chemist told me that it is polyutherane (at least that' s what i think he told me). He showed me a white glue. he says that is a sort of woodglue that is used for the napkins technique,
can anyone help me out, otherwise i have to ship this in at ridiculous shipping costs.
thanks
hello guys,
you never gonna believe, no mod podge in my country,
can anyone tell me what is in the mode podge ?
a decent chemist told me that it is polyutherane (at least that' s what i think he told me). He showed me a white glue. he says that is a sort of woodglue that is used for the napkins technique,
can anyone help me out, otherwise i have to ship this in at ridiculous shipping costs.
thanks
You better hope he didn't say polyurethane, or he's not much of a chemist. It's PVA, you can use diluted white general purpose/wood glue in place of modge podge. Modge Podge is just preferred for its consistency.
it was indeed pva he was saying.
so i can go out and buy a bottle of pva glue ? the consistency, well i'm gonna use it once, a small amount for the drivers, dilute it with 10% water; and that's it.
are you saying consistency ; between the different bottles of mod podge, or the glue inside one bottle of mod podge ?
thanks
so i can go out and buy a bottle of pva glue ? the consistency, well i'm gonna use it once, a small amount for the drivers, dilute it with 10% water; and that's it.
are you saying consistency ; between the different bottles of mod podge, or the glue inside one bottle of mod podge ?
thanks
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