What do you think ?
I'm thinking of crossing it at 200hz (either 12 or 24db).
I've seen a comment by lilmik
"imho opinion the 166e has a little bit better resolution and the highs are a bit better. " (in reference to comparing the 166e to the 167e)
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=80951&highlight=
Your opinion ?
Norman
I'm thinking of crossing it at 200hz (either 12 or 24db).
I've seen a comment by lilmik
"imho opinion the 166e has a little bit better resolution and the highs are a bit better. " (in reference to comparing the 166e to the 167e)
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=80951&highlight=
Your opinion ?
Norman
I'm seriously contemplating that design.
Partsexpress "Black hole" and some fill, good to go.
What components would a passive 6db of baffle step be ?
maybe I'll try the passive line level filter, but I doubt it.
Think it would work with lower z inputs like solid state amps?
http://www.bottlehead.com/loosep/S.E.Xy speakers.html
The driver impedance goes up a bit, so passive baffle step between amp and driver would become a smile shaped response, helpfull for our low volumes.
The f3 is a squeek under 200hz.
.25ft3 = qtc .577
To me, that design would be lacking in midbass, or even midrange and bass without any baffle step.
Then again, if you are used to the sat/sub sound, that's your perogative.
200hz crossing to 2 x 15's, that'll make you dance !!!
Norman
Partsexpress "Black hole" and some fill, good to go.
What components would a passive 6db of baffle step be ?
maybe I'll try the passive line level filter, but I doubt it.
Think it would work with lower z inputs like solid state amps?
http://www.bottlehead.com/loosep/S.E.Xy speakers.html
The driver impedance goes up a bit, so passive baffle step between amp and driver would become a smile shaped response, helpfull for our low volumes.
The f3 is a squeek under 200hz.
.25ft3 = qtc .577
To me, that design would be lacking in midbass, or even midrange and bass without any baffle step.
Then again, if you are used to the sat/sub sound, that's your perogative.
200hz crossing to 2 x 15's, that'll make you dance !!!
Norman
norman bates said:The f3 is a squeek under 200hz.
.25ft3 = qtc .577
I modelled it using measured parameters and F3 came out close to perfectly on 125 Hz.
dave
Here's the sealed box sizes I get for FE166e.
Qts = .21
fs = 50hz
Vas = 45.11liters = 1.59ft3
Qtc .707 sealed
Vb=.154 ft3
F3=Fsb=168 hz
Qtc .577 sealed
Vb=.243 ft3
F3=175hz
F6=131hz (estimate)
F9=87.5hz (estimate)
Here's a quick link to crunching sealed box numbers.....................
http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=26
I'll recrunch tomorrow at work, but these numbers look about right.
Norman
Qts = .21
fs = 50hz
Vas = 45.11liters = 1.59ft3
Qtc .707 sealed
Vb=.154 ft3
F3=Fsb=168 hz
Qtc .577 sealed
Vb=.243 ft3
F3=175hz
F6=131hz (estimate)
F9=87.5hz (estimate)
Here's a quick link to crunching sealed box numbers.....................
http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=26
I'll recrunch tomorrow at work, but these numbers look about right.
Norman
I believe what Dave is refering to (he certainly doesn't need any guides to designing sealed boxes -something he's rather good at 😉 ) is that you are assuming that Fostex's published specs. for the FE166E are accurate. They aren't. I'd post some, but the drive I had them on has packed up.
norman bates said:Here's the sealed box sizes I get for FE166e.
My gut feeling was that the F3 was going to be way high, but since i had just measured 2 pr of FE166, i plugged in that data instead and got 125 Hz (or real close, i'm not at that machine).
I have a 7 litre curved PE box, 2 unused plate amps, lots of spare woofers, but someone went and bought that 2nd set of FE166 putting this project on hold.
dave
PS: i am working to get a bunch more sets of measured numbers up here:
http://planet10-hifi.com/measured.html
Ah !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks guys !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I know it takes an act of congress to get things changed in a large company.
It's a shame that fostex doesn't grab 1 out of 100 drivers and test them to make sure specs are current........................
Seems like the 166e in that .25ft3 parts express boxes may move to the front of my projects to do................
Thanks for the footwork planet10.
Your intellectual property is valuable to many of us.
Someday I look forward to some of your phase plugs.
Norman
Thanks guys !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I know it takes an act of congress to get things changed in a large company.
It's a shame that fostex doesn't grab 1 out of 100 drivers and test them to make sure specs are current........................
Seems like the 166e in that .25ft3 parts express boxes may move to the front of my projects to do................
Thanks for the footwork planet10.
Your intellectual property is valuable to many of us.
Someday I look forward to some of your phase plugs.
Norman
norman bates said:Your intellectual property is valuable to many of us.
Someday I look forward to some of your phase plugs.
🙂
PP de rigor for any of the whizzer cone Fostex.
dave
"PP de rigor for any of the whizzer cone fostex"
PP I assume is phase plug/
What's de rigor mean ?
PP I assume is phase plug/
What's de rigor mean ?
norman bates said:What do you think ?
I'm thinking of crossing it at 200hz (either 12 or 24db).
Your opinion ?
Norman
I cross at ~400hz with a blackgate 47uf AC and a mundorf silver oil 1UF cap. run it 6db in series. I use a lowther DX4 and two Eminence Alpha 15A's, 12db @ 200hz rolloff. By some Bennic bipolars to play with to see where the best cutoff is. My recommendation.
norman bates said:"PP de rigor for any of the whizzer cone fostex"
PP I assume is phase plug/
What's de rigor mean ?
de rigeur is what p10 meant
Wikipedia says "de rigueur is a French expression that literally means "of rigor" or "of strictness". In English language usage, it means, 'necessary according to etiquette, protocol or fashion.'"
IOW - everyone is doing it
Sean
What's de rigor mean ?
Dave's spelling is occasionally as creative as his speaker building: it is more usually spelled de rigeur. And I think he actually means "necessary" (which is not quite the same). Maybe those Mac spell checkers are worse than the Microsoft one. 😀
I personally always take Dave's advice on speakers seriously, no matter how he phrases it.
Regards.
Aengus
norman bates said:What's de rigor mean ?
Might help if i'd spell better "De rigueur"
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/De_rigueur
dave
(edit: BTW, all those posts that fixed me already happened while i was posting)
Aengus said:Maybe those Mac spell checkers are worse than the Microsoft one.
The browser i use the most doesn't support the built-in spell check (actually quite surprising considering how tightly they follow UI protocol) or if it does i haven't figured how to turn it on.
dave
Forwhatit'sworthdepartment:
I bought a pair of those P.E. .25 cu.ft. curved-side boxes in cherry finish. Heavily built & beautifully finished, 3/4 in. mdf with vertical shelf bracing midway between front & back. Not set up well for easy installation of banana jacks, but really nice other than that, and nearly dead when knuckle-rapped. I mounted a pair of Jordan JX92S following Jim Griffin's design of several years ago, and passed them on to a cousin to whom I had promised them.
I mention this because I noticed the Insignia speakers that Best Buy sells look quite similar, though I think the back is a bit narrower. They seem substantially heavy too. The P.E. empty boxes are $150 a pair, while the Insignia complete speakers were $80 a pair. For someone on a budget, it may be worthwhile buying the Insignias for the cabinets alone at that price, and you will have an extra set of drivers and crossover to boot.
I bought a pair of those P.E. .25 cu.ft. curved-side boxes in cherry finish. Heavily built & beautifully finished, 3/4 in. mdf with vertical shelf bracing midway between front & back. Not set up well for easy installation of banana jacks, but really nice other than that, and nearly dead when knuckle-rapped. I mounted a pair of Jordan JX92S following Jim Griffin's design of several years ago, and passed them on to a cousin to whom I had promised them.
I mention this because I noticed the Insignia speakers that Best Buy sells look quite similar, though I think the back is a bit narrower. They seem substantially heavy too. The P.E. empty boxes are $150 a pair, while the Insignia complete speakers were $80 a pair. For someone on a budget, it may be worthwhile buying the Insignias for the cabinets alone at that price, and you will have an extra set of drivers and crossover to boot.
berm said:Insignia speakers that Best Buy sells look quite similar, though I think the back is a bit narrower. They seem substantially heavy too. The P.E. empty boxes are $150 a pair, while the Insignia complete speakers were $80 a pair. For someone on a budget, it may be worthwhile buying the Insignias for the cabinets alone at that price, and you will have an extra set of drivers and crossover to boot.
I have the PE boxes. MDF is of a low grade, but the laminate of 3mm MDF makes a pretty stiff panel (but still MDF). But the cheap MDF means they chip pretty easy and then they aren't so pretty. From the pictures of the inside of the insignia it isn't antwhere as well built. IMHO the PE boxes are better value.
dave
No argument about the P.E. boxes being better. How much different the sound quality of the boxes is, I don't know. I know the arguments against mdf, but I was still impressed by the P.E.'s. I think, at this wall thickness and with the bracing and curved sides and the small size of the enclosure, that maybe the BB plywood may not sound much better - but I have no way to compare. I only mentioned the Insignia boxes as an inexpensive alternative, as they also had curved sides, seemed to be about the same volume, and were quite heavy for their size. I haven't seen the inside, so I don't know.
Since both cabinets are already cut and finished, chipping shouldn't be such an issue. I did a considerable amount of routing on the P.E. boxes (love that Jasper jig) with no chipping. The baffle on the P.E. boxes is an inch thick, and I did the driver cutout, flush-mounting, and 45 degree chamfer on the inside, with no problems whatsoever. I didn't check out the Insignia baffle; it may not be as thick, but the picture looks like it mounts the same way, with four bolts. My only thought was that, for $70 less and an extra set of drivers, it may do well, maybe almost as well. And more bracing can be added if the Insignia doesn't have it, though the shelf bracing would be hard to duplicate.
All supposition on my part; you have the experience. Do you think the difference between these boxes is that critical?
Since both cabinets are already cut and finished, chipping shouldn't be such an issue. I did a considerable amount of routing on the P.E. boxes (love that Jasper jig) with no chipping. The baffle on the P.E. boxes is an inch thick, and I did the driver cutout, flush-mounting, and 45 degree chamfer on the inside, with no problems whatsoever. I didn't check out the Insignia baffle; it may not be as thick, but the picture looks like it mounts the same way, with four bolts. My only thought was that, for $70 less and an extra set of drivers, it may do well, maybe almost as well. And more bracing can be added if the Insignia doesn't have it, though the shelf bracing would be hard to duplicate.
All supposition on my part; you have the experience. Do you think the difference between these boxes is that critical?
berm said:P.E.'s. I think, at this wall thickness and with the bracing and curved sides and the small size of the enclosure, that maybe the BB plywood may not sound much better - but I have no way to compare. I only mentioned the Insignia boxes as an inexpensive alternative, as they also had curved sides, seemed to be about the same volume, and were quite heavy for their size. I haven't seen the inside, so I don't know.
The PE boxes are wuite cleverly done. The back and top are small, the brace runs in the right direction. But it is the mdf plywood sides that are key. Being curved it is much stiffer, and you have 6 layers with glue in-between. The weakest part is the baffle.
PEARL used a similar laminate (medite (HDF) instead of MDF thou, 7 layers) in their PR-2 because they weren't happy with just medite.
You could probably do this with BB if you could get it thin enuff (B&E does, but it takes a HUGE custom machine)
We have a pair of the 14litre PE cabs and a baffle we built as a proto-type to turn it into a Fonken-style box. When i have enuff spare drivers we'll fire it up and compare it ro the regular slab-side FonkenPrime. We'll release the plans if the speaker works out, but just the baffles are a harder build than a whole Fonken.
Since both cabinets are already cut and finished, chipping shouldn't be such an issue.
You should see my 14 litre boxes. I was very careful with them...
All supposition on my part; you have the experience. Do you think the difference between these boxes is that critical?
Yes.
dave
You're probably already familiar with Wiggle Wood or its competitors, but I've seen some quite rigid cabinetry done with this, especially after gluing several layers together over a curved jig or frame. It may not be too hard to make a good curved-side or even cylindrical cabinet with this.
http://www.packardforestproducts.com/bending_plywood.html
http://www.packardforestproducts.com/bending_plywood.html
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