Fe166e - simple cabinet - plz advise.
Hi
I just got a pair of fe166e last month, but have difficulty to get the Fostex's BLH cabinet built -- it's too complicated. I am looking for another cabinet that is simpler to build. Is there any PAWO or simple Bass Reflex design esp. for floot standing one?
Thanks in advance.
Hi
I just got a pair of fe166e last month, but have difficulty to get the Fostex's BLH cabinet built -- it's too complicated. I am looking for another cabinet that is simpler to build. Is there any PAWO or simple Bass Reflex design esp. for floot standing one?
Thanks in advance.
There is a small bass reflex cabinet at the bottom of this *.pdf at Madisound:
http://www.madisound.com/pdf/fostexdrivers/FE166E.pdf
A stand could easily be built into the design to make it tall like a floor standing one.
http://www.madisound.com/pdf/fostexdrivers/FE166E.pdf
A stand could easily be built into the design to make it tall like a floor standing one.
renfrow said:
Thanks Kinnja and renfrow for your response.
Fostex's recommended bass reflex looks simple but not sure if it will work properly since Fostex said this driver is unsuitable for BR ( Do I worry overly? ).
The BIB looks good I will try checking for reference if it can be used with FE166e.
Any other advice are also very welcome.
See what anyone has to say about an MLTL for your build.
Possibly Bob Brines at Brines Acoustics or audioroundtable as well.
The Mass Loaded Transmission Line has performed the best for
me and the build is a lot simpler than it sounds. I'm using 4 inch
Fostex FE127e's for the MLTL so the mileage will vary.
Possibly Bob Brines at Brines Acoustics or audioroundtable as well.
The Mass Loaded Transmission Line has performed the best for
me and the build is a lot simpler than it sounds. I'm using 4 inch
Fostex FE127e's for the MLTL so the mileage will vary.
The FE166E is not a drop-in replacement for the 164 unfortunately. It's the FE167E stablemate that's the equivalent unit.
I'm afraid your options with the 166 are far more restricted than with the 167, as the Q of the 166 is too low for it to make a natural match to an MLTL or ML TQWT. Wanting a simple box just restricts your options still further -I'm not ciriticising here, just working through in stages.
You can make the 166 work in an MLTL / ML TQWT cabinet, but you'll need pretty heavy correction to get the response into line (it will rapidly rise with increasing frequency). Either massive (active) EQ, or a passive correction circuit. This will work, but the trade-off is either increased expense, if you don't already have an Eq box, or severely reduced sensitivity. The BIB is probably about the best simple cabinet option for this unit IMO, and will work fine with the 166 -you'll find some cabinet dimensions I suggested for this unit on the Zilla pages. And it will have bass. Oh yes.
I'm afraid your options with the 166 are far more restricted than with the 167, as the Q of the 166 is too low for it to make a natural match to an MLTL or ML TQWT. Wanting a simple box just restricts your options still further -I'm not ciriticising here, just working through in stages.
You can make the 166 work in an MLTL / ML TQWT cabinet, but you'll need pretty heavy correction to get the response into line (it will rapidly rise with increasing frequency). Either massive (active) EQ, or a passive correction circuit. This will work, but the trade-off is either increased expense, if you don't already have an Eq box, or severely reduced sensitivity. The BIB is probably about the best simple cabinet option for this unit IMO, and will work fine with the 166 -you'll find some cabinet dimensions I suggested for this unit on the Zilla pages. And it will have bass. Oh yes.
i can vouch for the bib!
i built one, quite easy actually, and bass?
....i can vouch for the bass as well, so can every picture on my wall and every small tiem on my shelf.
but i actually throoughly enjoy the bib, even without anysort of filter its amazing.
i built one, quite easy actually, and bass?
....i can vouch for the bass as well, so can every picture on my wall and every small tiem on my shelf.
but i actually throoughly enjoy the bib, even without anysort of filter its amazing.
mais oui
I've been learning a bit how the BIB works in room space.
I don't have the setup for sitting back 20 ft on a big couch so
my listeind space is close up in a big room. The BIB probably performs better with a larger soundstage in a big room so I'mn trying to figure
where my adjustments should be. No china rattling nor do I wish for any.
My exploration of these builds has been of the a/b variety-- sampling one against another so it's not true 'stereo' or surround or anything else. Still, I feel it gives an adequate representation of the device itself. for that reason and for my purposes, I always come back to the MLTL as the best solution. Still playing with all the variables, but I notices that in a/b comparison I did not care for the BIB in a corner
placement. For one thing, baseboards heaters and the build itself (which is pretty much a mockup yet) did not allow for true corner placement.
This leads me to think that a build like the Metronome might give
the best of both worlds: relative nearfield positioning, lowered volume and good overall sound representation in the bass and treble.
I've been learning a bit how the BIB works in room space.
I don't have the setup for sitting back 20 ft on a big couch so
my listeind space is close up in a big room. The BIB probably performs better with a larger soundstage in a big room so I'mn trying to figure
where my adjustments should be. No china rattling nor do I wish for any.
My exploration of these builds has been of the a/b variety-- sampling one against another so it's not true 'stereo' or surround or anything else. Still, I feel it gives an adequate representation of the device itself. for that reason and for my purposes, I always come back to the MLTL as the best solution. Still playing with all the variables, but I notices that in a/b comparison I did not care for the BIB in a corner
placement. For one thing, baseboards heaters and the build itself (which is pretty much a mockup yet) did not allow for true corner placement.
This leads me to think that a build like the Metronome might give
the best of both worlds: relative nearfield positioning, lowered volume and good overall sound representation in the bass and treble.
Re: mais oui
My room is very small (3.5 x 3.5 metres) and listening at low volume. Seems the "Metronome" that I look for !!
Could you (or any one) advise how to get the building plan/info of "Metronome for fe166e"?
Million Thanks!!!
loninappleton said:
My room is very small (3.5 x 3.5 metres) and listening at low volume. Seems the "Metronome" that I look for !!
Could you (or any one) advise how to get the building plan/info of "Metronome for fe166e"?
Million Thanks!!!
http://www.frugal-horn.com/metronome.html
Problem here is that again, the FE166E is not naturally well suited to MLTL / ML TQWT / ML QQWT cabinets -Q is too low. We can make it work, but be aware that you'll need a hefty dose of correction, either active Eq, or series resistance, to get it into line.
Problem here is that again, the FE166E is not naturally well suited to MLTL / ML TQWT / ML QQWT cabinets -Q is too low. We can make it work, but be aware that you'll need a hefty dose of correction, either active Eq, or series resistance, to get it into line.
the BIB is quite nice i find, and since the frequencies you are trying to reinforce with the tqwt are meters long, id assume that a couple inches away from walls would be virtually the same as flush corner loading.
The BIB will only rattle china if you want it to, and its there in the recording, but what it does it also does with amazing texture and finesse.
The BIB will only rattle china if you want it to, and its there in the recording, but what it does it also does with amazing texture and finesse.
These multiple bib threads are getting confusing.
For a simple cabinet the BIB is a good first build.
With a decent shop it should go pretty fast up to clamp time.
A sample build would be my advice... what we've been calling
a 'mule'.
While there has been a lot of text up to now on treatments for the
interior I wish someone would do a photo how to for that.
For a simple cabinet the BIB is a good first build.
With a decent shop it should go pretty fast up to clamp time.
A sample build would be my advice... what we've been calling
a 'mule'.
While there has been a lot of text up to now on treatments for the
interior I wish someone would do a photo how to for that.
Hello pwan,
if you look a the Xmax (0,6 mm)
for me only a horn will do it:
http://www.hm-moreart.de/7.htm
a new double horn, down to 32 Hz,
with a 2 driver like the 167 AV at the back
free download, part list direct from me.
if you look a the Xmax (0,6 mm)
for me only a horn will do it:
http://www.hm-moreart.de/7.htm
a new double horn, down to 32 Hz,
with a 2 driver like the 167 AV at the back
free download, part list direct from me.
Attachments
scottmoose,
may be !
but i never saw a measurement of a BiB,
nor a AJ horn simulation,
where i can find it?
may be !
but i never saw a measurement of a BiB,
nor a AJ horn simulation,
where i can find it?
I don't use AJ horn; a) can't afford it, and b) don't like the interface much, though I don't deny it's a good piece of software. Depends on what cabinet you want. I've got some optimised 166 BIB simulations lurking on one of my HDDs -I'll dig them out. Not as well controlled as, say, Ron's Austin, but not half bad either.
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