Hi there,
is 65 Euro, that´s 80.6$, okay for one FE108ESigma?
I´m considering buying a pair...
I´ve read a lot about the FE108E and also a lot about designs including this fella, but I haven´t heard a lot about the FE108ESigma.
Any oppinions? Are ther interchangeable? Can I use a FE108E Enclosure-Design with the FE108ESigma?
Thanks for reading, David
is 65 Euro, that´s 80.6$, okay for one FE108ESigma?
I´m considering buying a pair...
I´ve read a lot about the FE108E and also a lot about designs including this fella, but I haven´t heard a lot about the FE108ESigma.
Any oppinions? Are ther interchangeable? Can I use a FE108E Enclosure-Design with the FE108ESigma?
Thanks for reading, David
Hi Rodeodave,
I don't know about the FE108S but here is the recommanded enclosure for this driver I found on fostex site:
http://www.fostexinternational.com/docs/speaker_comp/pdf/recom_enclose/108ez_encl.pdf
Doesn't look like very straightforward!
I don't know about the FE108S but here is the recommanded enclosure for this driver I found on fostex site:
http://www.fostexinternational.com/docs/speaker_comp/pdf/recom_enclose/108ez_encl.pdf
Doesn't look like very straightforward!
Rodeodave said:
The FE108ES is one of my favorite drivers of all time. Definitly a step up from the FE108S. It really likes a horn (or a current amp) to generate bass.
With modifications to the compression chamber it can be put into the buschorn II.
dave
Re: Re: FE108ESigma
Yep, might be true. But I think I´ll give it a try anyway. Maybe I´ll build a downscaled "prototype" out of cardboard first, to see where all the parts should go...
I know that you probably know as little as I do about this design, but a few questions 😕 anyway:
The "Sound Absorbents", that´s damping material, right?
What´s up with parts 21 to 25? Why is there only one piece à per speaker?
What are the "2 - ø20 holes" (on the back, top) for?
Where does the terminal board go?
http://www.fostexinternational.com/docs/speaker_comp/pdf/recom_enclose/108ez_encl.pdf
Yeah, that makes me confident, plus, I´ll be using a current amp, that´s good.
Thanks for your replies, David
kepa1 said:
Yep, might be true. But I think I´ll give it a try anyway. Maybe I´ll build a downscaled "prototype" out of cardboard first, to see where all the parts should go...
I know that you probably know as little as I do about this design, but a few questions 😕 anyway:
The "Sound Absorbents", that´s damping material, right?
What´s up with parts 21 to 25? Why is there only one piece à per speaker?
What are the "2 - ø20 holes" (on the back, top) for?
Where does the terminal board go?
http://www.fostexinternational.com/docs/speaker_comp/pdf/recom_enclose/108ez_encl.pdf
planet10 said:
Yeah, that makes me confident, plus, I´ll be using a current amp, that´s good.
Thanks for your replies, David
Rodeodave
“...downscaled "prototype" out of cardboard...”
Loudspeaker boxes can’t be scaled ..!!!!!
You have more information at
http://www.geocities.com/dbr_audio/Horn_Fostex_FE108EZ.pdf
best regards Jaime
“...downscaled "prototype" out of cardboard...”
Loudspeaker boxes can’t be scaled ..!!!!!
You have more information at
http://www.geocities.com/dbr_audio/Horn_Fostex_FE108EZ.pdf
best regards Jaime
i konw that enclosures can't be downscaled if you want a working version.
i just couldn't figure out how the thingy look like in 3D.
plus i wanted to figure out where i should start glueing parts together.
i just couldn't figure out how the thingy look like in 3D.
plus i wanted to figure out where i should start glueing parts together.
Rodeodave
in this web you have 3D drawings
http://www.geocities.com/dbr_audio/Horn_Fostex_FE108EZ.pdf
sorry, but, it is in spanish
in this web you have 3D drawings
http://www.geocities.com/dbr_audio/Horn_Fostex_FE108EZ.pdf
sorry, but, it is in spanish
Rodeodave,
Good questions. Let me add another: Why cut those six blocks just under the driver, only to glue them back together again?
Randy
Good questions. Let me add another: Why cut those six blocks just under the driver, only to glue them back together again?
Randy
The pieces 21-25 are reinforcements.
The littles blocks can change the volume of the cell and tune the sound
The littles blocks can change the volume of the cell and tune the sound
HEY RODEODAVE!
May I ask where you are going to buy the FE108EZ? Prices I saw are quite higher than the one you got.
Gianluca
May I ask where you are going to buy the FE108EZ? Prices I saw are quite higher than the one you got.
Gianluca
Hi,
I have build the speaker early this year and I am very hapy with it. You will be amazed what great sound can come out of it. The bass is enormes for only a 10 cm driver, very fast and detailed. The mid is fantastic, voices sound very open and also the hihg frequencies are very detailled.
For start when you are going to build them it is very importend that you build them with multiplex wood. It is importend like the building of an instrument. The box amplifies the sound, it must not absorbe it. You can find many articles written.
I have send you a personal mail with some pictures. If there are questions, don't hesitate. I also have asked them all early this year.
In the mail you will find a scan with the pictures yo found in the early Spanisch reply. Original those plans will be delivered allong with the units. The only problem is that those are in Chinese.
In the picture you will find the order in witch you can start glueing the parts together.
The sound absorbments are indeed damping material. I used Pritex.
The two holes is just the space you need to conent the wires to the terminal board. The terminal board is covering those holes.
I replaced the 6 parts number 29 by 2 parts 170x60 mm. You can see that they did the same in the pictures of the original scan. First I also thought the were ment to be taken out after to enlarge the volume of the compresion chamber when needed. But this realy isn't nessesary. It is better to glue it all together for the strenght.
I hope you will be able to build them with the help of my pictures.
Alexander
I have build the speaker early this year and I am very hapy with it. You will be amazed what great sound can come out of it. The bass is enormes for only a 10 cm driver, very fast and detailed. The mid is fantastic, voices sound very open and also the hihg frequencies are very detailled.
For start when you are going to build them it is very importend that you build them with multiplex wood. It is importend like the building of an instrument. The box amplifies the sound, it must not absorbe it. You can find many articles written.
I have send you a personal mail with some pictures. If there are questions, don't hesitate. I also have asked them all early this year.
In the mail you will find a scan with the pictures yo found in the early Spanisch reply. Original those plans will be delivered allong with the units. The only problem is that those are in Chinese.
In the picture you will find the order in witch you can start glueing the parts together.
The sound absorbments are indeed damping material. I used Pritex.
The two holes is just the space you need to conent the wires to the terminal board. The terminal board is covering those holes.
I replaced the 6 parts number 29 by 2 parts 170x60 mm. You can see that they did the same in the pictures of the original scan. First I also thought the were ment to be taken out after to enlarge the volume of the compresion chamber when needed. But this realy isn't nessesary. It is better to glue it all together for the strenght.
I hope you will be able to build them with the help of my pictures.
Alexander
Attachments
Hello everyone,
Well, thanks for all of your interest. I've been off the forum for quite a while now. My speakers are almost finished, just not sure which damping material to use and if I'll use terminals or directly mount the cable to the driver.
@Gluca:
I've bought them from atecaudio in vienna (www.atecaudio.com, austian page), you have to browse the pricelist (preisliste) and then search for "FE", and at the bottom of the list there's FE108ES and FE83 or something. The price is supposed to be 65 Euros, but seemingly without tax (as stated on top of the list). They come via DPD, so shipping shouldn't be a problem, plus these people are seriously friendly and recommendable. (by the way, you windsurf, are you located near the lago di garda?).
Along with the speakers you get mounting screws (8 per), a real fancy purely japanese (Katakana and Hiragana and Kanji, tough) manual and some sort of foam-ring to seal off the mounting-hole. Nice.
@Alexandertol:
Thanks for your advice. When you rush things (like I usually do when something keeps wandering around in my mind), the thinking-process is often somehow neglected. In this case I've been doing too little research on wood-stuff and just ordered the parts made out of 16mm MDF. I've used a LOT of laquer to seal the MDF ( see the post http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=61933, featuring a nice project from Guijs plus loads of construction advices, helped me a lot). Hopefully the laquer improoved it a little...
Hmmm, I guess I'll have to finish them anyway (just have to make two desicions: damping material and terminals yes/no) and see what they can do.
The pats#29-confusion:
Like Guijs, I am using the original parts.
If you take a close look at the pictures in the plan delivered with the drivers, you can see, just as you've said, that they were replaced by 4 solid parts.
If you take a close look at the blueprints, you can see that there should be a space on the left side (font view, dashed lines) after having installed them into the compression chamber.
While asembling the enclosures, I realized that the three parts result in a 15cm wide piece, whilst the enclosure is 17m wide. As far as I understand, looking at the enclosure's layout (cutting-plan), there is no obvious reason not to (a) make them fit the width, (b) make them out of one piece.
So there must be a reason. I glued them together in pairs of two and intalled them with a 1cm space between them, so the outer ones fit the width. I don't know why, but it seemed to fit the whole design, with all these steps and baffles. Don't know...
Probably reduces the output-volume a little, because there's more volume (in terms of length^3) now, but I know so very little about horns, I can't quite judge.
Well, thanks for reading,
David
Well, thanks for all of your interest. I've been off the forum for quite a while now. My speakers are almost finished, just not sure which damping material to use and if I'll use terminals or directly mount the cable to the driver.
@Gluca:
I've bought them from atecaudio in vienna (www.atecaudio.com, austian page), you have to browse the pricelist (preisliste) and then search for "FE", and at the bottom of the list there's FE108ES and FE83 or something. The price is supposed to be 65 Euros, but seemingly without tax (as stated on top of the list). They come via DPD, so shipping shouldn't be a problem, plus these people are seriously friendly and recommendable. (by the way, you windsurf, are you located near the lago di garda?).
Along with the speakers you get mounting screws (8 per), a real fancy purely japanese (Katakana and Hiragana and Kanji, tough) manual and some sort of foam-ring to seal off the mounting-hole. Nice.
@Alexandertol:
Thanks for your advice. When you rush things (like I usually do when something keeps wandering around in my mind), the thinking-process is often somehow neglected. In this case I've been doing too little research on wood-stuff and just ordered the parts made out of 16mm MDF. I've used a LOT of laquer to seal the MDF ( see the post http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=61933, featuring a nice project from Guijs plus loads of construction advices, helped me a lot). Hopefully the laquer improoved it a little...
Hmmm, I guess I'll have to finish them anyway (just have to make two desicions: damping material and terminals yes/no) and see what they can do.
The pats#29-confusion:
Like Guijs, I am using the original parts.
If you take a close look at the pictures in the plan delivered with the drivers, you can see, just as you've said, that they were replaced by 4 solid parts.
If you take a close look at the blueprints, you can see that there should be a space on the left side (font view, dashed lines) after having installed them into the compression chamber.
While asembling the enclosures, I realized that the three parts result in a 15cm wide piece, whilst the enclosure is 17m wide. As far as I understand, looking at the enclosure's layout (cutting-plan), there is no obvious reason not to (a) make them fit the width, (b) make them out of one piece.
So there must be a reason. I glued them together in pairs of two and intalled them with a 1cm space between them, so the outer ones fit the width. I don't know why, but it seemed to fit the whole design, with all these steps and baffles. Don't know...
Probably reduces the output-volume a little, because there's more volume (in terms of length^3) now, but I know so very little about horns, I can't quite judge.
Well, thanks for reading,
David
wondering if any of you guys have had the chance to compare the 108sigma to Jordan's JX92. I was looking at a ML-TL or sealed box.
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