cause same model than SS & SB :North european engineers that outsource the production in Asia, with certainly international founds for the money.
Here they are priced between SB and SS while being said nearer from SS in quality sounding term. But now you have a new contender with Kartesian Acoustic : same model : made in Asia, designed in Europe but like SS : high-end models made at house.
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Best mid priced tweeter: SB26CDC $60
Best mid-priced 6 inch woofer for small sealed box 2-ways: SB17MFC35-8 $65... there are not many small sealed box woofers out there...
Best midrange driver for under $100: SB17CAC-35 and SB15CAC-30
Best mid-priced 6 inch woofer for small sealed box 2-ways: SB17MFC35-8 $65... there are not many small sealed box woofers out there...
Best midrange driver for under $100: SB17CAC-35 and SB15CAC-30
"Wavecor drivers. ... I'm not sure why they are more expensive" - in Aus, they seem to be concentrating their limited offerings on the Car Stereo market - their cast frame woofers are ridiculous prices, 4x that of their pressed frame alternative. At that money might as well buy Satoris or Scanspeak
I just got my new Crown XTi1002 power amp. I ordered this to try with my new MW13TX 5 in TexTremes which I hope to receive by mid April latest. I mention this because I now have a new play toy with MANY possible filter, DSP, etc configurations. TONS more power than required for a pair of 5 inch obviously but it is the features I needed here. So far, I have only played with the EQ settings; not the HP, LP, BP, etc. It can do Butterworth 6 or 12 or 18 or 24 or even 48 dB and Linkwitz-Riley 24 or 48 dB as lowpass or highpass. Bandpass gain is adjustable +/- 15 dB. This is designed as a pro "PA" type amp but works great for home use as well. Since I am spending over $600 US on the TX; I decided to go active and avoid passives all together. In order to get the very best performance; I would probably spend well over $200 on passive X/O parts just for the TX. I will continue to post in the new SB Satori TexTreme thread once I get them up and running. For now; I am using the XTi1002 on a pair of MA "Pluvia" P7PHD (paper cone, High Def.). I need to upload more software then I will try the X/O filter functions and disable the EQ settings. You can do custom pre-sets and store them to recall for later quick A/B comparisons...The old guy won't need his trusty clip leads and boxes of caps, coils, etc. for these experiments!
Crown XTi 1002
Still VERY early on the learning curve!
XTi 1002 | Crown Audio - Professional Power Amplifiers
Crown XTi1002 DriveCore Two Channel 500W At 4 ohms Power Amplifier
Still VERY early on the learning curve!
XTi 1002 | Crown Audio - Professional Power Amplifiers
Crown XTi1002 DriveCore Two Channel 500W At 4 ohms Power Amplifier
Oldspkrguy
Do you have a tripod?
Why not get a microphone, speaker turntable and measurement / and
crossover design software to use with your DSP?
That way you don’t have to stick to pre-set filters, and you have complete control over baffle step compensation, variable shelf filters or notch filters, in-room bass EQ.
Take it to the next level...
Like your children; I don’t think I have a favourite.
But there are some memorable ones:
4”: Vifa/Peerless NE123W-08; excellent wide band response
5”: SB MW13PNW-04; low distortion, bass, and gorgeous looks in only 7L.
7” SS 18W/8535/45- what started DIY for me. This guy can still turn heads in 1cu ft;
SEAS W18E001- good looks and ultra low HD2; but not as nice texture and sounds as the Scan
8”: Dayton RS225; great bass for a low price on 40L.
10”: Peerless XLS 830452- what kickstarted the deep bass in a small box (with passive radiators) craze 2 decades ago.
15”: TC Sounds LMS-R 15”: because I couldn’t afford the LMS Ultra at the time.
Tweeters: not sure if I’m too fussed. Crossover in their appropriate ranges and SPL requirements dunno if I’m too fussed. But I find it hard to spend $200 or more on a tweeter when I feel I could get a lot of woofer for $200.
Under $50: SB29SDAC; SB26ADC
104mm: many
110mm: SEAS Millennium T25CF002- probably repairable til the end of time.
Purifi- PTT6.5; better bass than many 8” midwoofer; better midrange than many 6.5” midwoofers.
Wishlist: Hiquphon OW1; BliesMa; Eminence NSW-6021; AudioTechnology 6.5”
Do you have a tripod?
Why not get a microphone, speaker turntable and measurement / and
crossover design software to use with your DSP?
That way you don’t have to stick to pre-set filters, and you have complete control over baffle step compensation, variable shelf filters or notch filters, in-room bass EQ.
Take it to the next level...
Like your children; I don’t think I have a favourite.
But there are some memorable ones:
4”: Vifa/Peerless NE123W-08; excellent wide band response
5”: SB MW13PNW-04; low distortion, bass, and gorgeous looks in only 7L.
7” SS 18W/8535/45- what started DIY for me. This guy can still turn heads in 1cu ft;
SEAS W18E001- good looks and ultra low HD2; but not as nice texture and sounds as the Scan
8”: Dayton RS225; great bass for a low price on 40L.
10”: Peerless XLS 830452- what kickstarted the deep bass in a small box (with passive radiators) craze 2 decades ago.
15”: TC Sounds LMS-R 15”: because I couldn’t afford the LMS Ultra at the time.
Tweeters: not sure if I’m too fussed. Crossover in their appropriate ranges and SPL requirements dunno if I’m too fussed. But I find it hard to spend $200 or more on a tweeter when I feel I could get a lot of woofer for $200.
Under $50: SB29SDAC; SB26ADC
104mm: many
110mm: SEAS Millennium T25CF002- probably repairable til the end of time.
Purifi- PTT6.5; better bass than many 8” midwoofer; better midrange than many 6.5” midwoofers.
Wishlist: Hiquphon OW1; BliesMa; Eminence NSW-6021; AudioTechnology 6.5”
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I have a calibrated mic, USB interface, tripod, etc. and REW. BUT, no matter what I do; REW always says lower than expected level. The interface shows plenty of level from the microphone. I loaned these out to my neighbor who is a musician and singer/songwriter. Once I get them back; I will try REW once more. I may also buy a UMIK-1 next if I can't get it sorted out. Can others recommend free test and measurement software besides REW? Something very basic and simple; just so I can confirm my mic and interface are OK and maybe I just haven't set REW properly? ARTA and REW seem complicated, at least at first; I really don't want another microphone if that is not the problem!
Arta. As REW you can measure impulse response of yours drivers in box for acoustic center alignment and or calcul the offset in mm or inches you will enter in your crossover calculator.
Thing I don t understand though is how in both you make a sweeptone for that with the length you want like 10 seconds for instance.
At Jimhifi,
You prefer the cac over the plastic MFC from a listening test ? Always asked myself cause some brands that like polymer cones...Arbeth, Volt; Audiotechnology, Spendor, Dynaudio... have sucess.
While I find the best metal cones can have something smooth as the polymer...weird.
Thing I don t understand though is how in both you make a sweeptone for that with the length you want like 10 seconds for instance.
At Jimhifi,
You prefer the cac over the plastic MFC from a listening test ? Always asked myself cause some brands that like polymer cones...Arbeth, Volt; Audiotechnology, Spendor, Dynaudio... have sucess.
While I find the best metal cones can have something smooth as the polymer...weird.
My humble opinion on some drivers I've used.
Satori mr13p awesome midrange, very very very clean
Sb17cac very good, although satori midrange was superior I preferred the sound of the aluminum/ceramic cone for heavy metal/hard rock, but when it came to the bass, I felt it was subwooferish. It was getting low, but not so good.
Sb16pfcr and sb13pfcr awesome drivers for the money, not great midrange, but great all around
Seas p21rex vintage driver 8inch mid bass, very good sounding
Satori tw29rn great fabric dome Tweeter
Sb29rdc great for the money. Satori Tweeter is better but not waaaaay better. But better.
Sb29sdac very close to the Sb29rdc, probably I liked the ring more.
Sb26stc very good sounding Tweeter
Seas 27tdc and 29tff also very good tweeters
My personal opinion, for this little time I try to learn about speaker design, is that the mid range priced tweeters sound very very good. Sb29sdac and rdc, sb26, 29tff 27tdc are very very good sounding drivers and one should not ask more for the price. To go a little better you must spend much more
These days I am planing to go for a seas curv project, probably the troels curv.
Looking forward to hear something else than the sb acoustics
Satori mr13p awesome midrange, very very very clean
Sb17cac very good, although satori midrange was superior I preferred the sound of the aluminum/ceramic cone for heavy metal/hard rock, but when it came to the bass, I felt it was subwooferish. It was getting low, but not so good.
Sb16pfcr and sb13pfcr awesome drivers for the money, not great midrange, but great all around
Seas p21rex vintage driver 8inch mid bass, very good sounding
Satori tw29rn great fabric dome Tweeter
Sb29rdc great for the money. Satori Tweeter is better but not waaaaay better. But better.
Sb29sdac very close to the Sb29rdc, probably I liked the ring more.
Sb26stc very good sounding Tweeter
Seas 27tdc and 29tff also very good tweeters
My personal opinion, for this little time I try to learn about speaker design, is that the mid range priced tweeters sound very very good. Sb29sdac and rdc, sb26, 29tff 27tdc are very very good sounding drivers and one should not ask more for the price. To go a little better you must spend much more
These days I am planing to go for a seas curv project, probably the troels curv.
Looking forward to hear something else than the sb acoustics
Ideally, I want a REAL SPL reading; just as if I had a calibrated SPL meter. Not only do I want the FR in room, I want to measure at 1 inch, 0.5 meters, 1.0 meters (for SPL), 2.0 meters and at the normal seated listening position. I can't do ANY of these if REW keeps giving me errors about very low signal levels. More later; any quick start tips are welcome; again, I don't have my mic back yet. The interface I have is 24 bit, 192 K and 2 channel input; many told me this would have a lower noise floor and be more accurate than just a USB only mic such as UMIK-1, etc...
You had a good idea to have a two channels sound cards and a phantom power...mandatory for impulse response measurments cause two channels needed here.
You can for cheap maybe setup any measurement software with a smartphone spl meter ?
You can for cheap maybe setup any measurement software with a smartphone spl meter ?
Is it possible for you to measure both outdoors and indoors, and then obtain the room effects from their difference?
When you calibrate your meter later, you could adjust the SPL offset in all your readings so that their absolute values are restored. Just a quick thought.
Vassilis1984, I agree 100% on the SB17CAC; I thought it was only good as a woofer and not a mid-woofer. I love my Satori MR16 mids; hard to beat I think for the money. I was tempted to get the MR13's until I learned about the TexTreme MW13TX. I use the MR16 and MA p7phd combined for mids in my main system, essentially covering the exact same band. The idea is the MW13TX will replace these; ideally I want to cover 300 to 600 Hz for the HP and 3000 to 6000 Hz for the LP. I just got off of the phone with the Crown Tech Support; I now have 2 channel stereo with bandpass settings at BW2 (24 dB); 300 to 6000 Hz. I am also using EQ to further attenuate the lower bass and upper treble...so far, so good.
PS, I don't have a smart phone! Hah, old guy doesn't need or want one; laptop good enough for me since I am fully retired and home 99% of the time.
I am in an urban setting with close buildings and houses so outside measurements won't be much better than inside due to so many things causing reflections. I do know a few people out in the country with several acres; I might eventually get to that point!??
PS, I don't have a smart phone! Hah, old guy doesn't need or want one; laptop good enough for me since I am fully retired and home 99% of the time.
I am in an urban setting with close buildings and houses so outside measurements won't be much better than inside due to so many things causing reflections. I do know a few people out in the country with several acres; I might eventually get to that point!??
I'm looking forward to have your feedback when you get a Textreme unit.
Well for impulse response measurement at least, you can measure in room, that doesn't matter much cause you capture the impulse before it hits walls. Or at least bouncing is maybe visible on the impulse capture and are after. I'm trying to learn this rightnow and it's very time consuming, not saying when you read not in your first language !
I read somewhere that in a blind test, the little Seas 22TFF or the 22TAF/G is very near of the very more expensive OW1 ?!
Could be nice if someone has heard both the SS aluminium tweeter inputed above in a post VS the SB26CAC ? Anyone ?
Well for impulse response measurement at least, you can measure in room, that doesn't matter much cause you capture the impulse before it hits walls. Or at least bouncing is maybe visible on the impulse capture and are after. I'm trying to learn this rightnow and it's very time consuming, not saying when you read not in your first language !
I read somewhere that in a blind test, the little Seas 22TFF or the 22TAF/G is very near of the very more expensive OW1 ?!
Could be nice if someone has heard both the SS aluminium tweeter inputed above in a post VS the SB26CAC ? Anyone ?
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I hate crossovers and their complications and weight.
So I always go for full range speakers.
I have 2 main boxes I listen too, one is an 1980's Fane 12-50WRMS in a W bin.
The other is a pair of Fane 12-250TC's in a sealed box which sound great.
So I always go for full range speakers.
I have 2 main boxes I listen too, one is an 1980's Fane 12-50WRMS in a W bin.
The other is a pair of Fane 12-250TC's in a sealed box which sound great.
Nigel..., I agree; I use 1st order X/O whenever possible. I often use FR drivers as wide band mids and cross as high as possible to a tweeter or ST. I don't worry as much about beaming as most people seem to; I have a wide enough sound stage at my normal listening position I consider beaming almost a non-issue. I am excited about the new SB Satori MW13TX TexTreme. It has a wide band width for a "mid-woofer" although I would still much prefer a midrange version or better yet a wide band FR. Sd is 70cm^2. My MA P7PHD has an Sd of 50. A Fostex FF125WK has an Sd of 66. I'm hoping to use at least up to 4 KHz, maybe higher? A SS Iluminator Mid model 12MU...has an Sd of 58 and has a somewhat similar looking FR to the MW13TX. Even if I can go higher than 5 KHz, my middle age ears start their HF rolloff at about 8 Khz so I need a super tweeter starting about there or at least 10 KHz so a true fullrange won't do it for me all by itself anymore these days regardless...