Can anyone help with this, please -
Awhile ago, Faraday Sound in Norwich, UK had a book available that contained information about Low Density Concrete for diy projects - they appear to be now defunct and maintains no working web addresses.
I found 2 addresses from Google - "Faraday Sound,248 Hall Rd, Norwich, NR1 2PW, UK"
and - "Faraday Sound, 38 Cricket Ground Rd, Norwich, Norfolk, NR! 3BQ, UK"
Is there anyone that may have this information, or know of the book, or even know what happened to the Faraday guys?
Awhile ago, Faraday Sound in Norwich, UK had a book available that contained information about Low Density Concrete for diy projects - they appear to be now defunct and maintains no working web addresses.
I found 2 addresses from Google - "Faraday Sound,248 Hall Rd, Norwich, NR1 2PW, UK"
and - "Faraday Sound, 38 Cricket Ground Rd, Norwich, Norfolk, NR! 3BQ, UK"
Is there anyone that may have this information, or know of the book, or even know what happened to the Faraday guys?
The booklet is currently on offer on eBay UK at
CONCRETE CABINET LOUDSPEAKERS. A PROVEN HIFI DIY GUIDE. on eBay (end time 31-May-10 15:28:29 BST)
Oddly enough, the price appears to be in Australian dollars. He must have known you were looking!
CONCRETE CABINET LOUDSPEAKERS. A PROVEN HIFI DIY GUIDE. on eBay (end time 31-May-10 15:28:29 BST)
Oddly enough, the price appears to be in Australian dollars. He must have known you were looking!
Thanks Colin, bought it just now.
I did find him via the Pinkfish site but he wsn't very interested in conversations about the concrete so I regretably gave it away as a lost cause.
Maybe he found a spare copy and hey presto! It'll be interesting to learn what went into the mix and how he kept the heavier parts from settling.
I do like your Go Cards and the Maps are a rather good idea - madew immediate sense without a dictionary - perhaps you might like to do a similar thing with some of the instruction manuals for some of the tv, video & hifi gear that mostly have ridiculously complicated instructions.
Thanks again for the "heads-up" ... James
I did find him via the Pinkfish site but he wsn't very interested in conversations about the concrete so I regretably gave it away as a lost cause.
Maybe he found a spare copy and hey presto! It'll be interesting to learn what went into the mix and how he kept the heavier parts from settling.
I do like your Go Cards and the Maps are a rather good idea - madew immediate sense without a dictionary - perhaps you might like to do a similar thing with some of the instruction manuals for some of the tv, video & hifi gear that mostly have ridiculously complicated instructions.
Thanks again for the "heads-up" ... James
Have a look at http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/cons...tic-concrete.html?highlight=acoustic+concrete
Terry
Terry
Hey James...
thanks for the info. I just purchased a copy for myself also. This should make an excellent read.
Cheers
Ah, that damn concrete - it's got a mind of it's own!
I did get Patrick's booklet (Faraday Sound) -it doesn't say much but makes a lot more sense if you see the structures as "ridgid" chambers and not CDLs (control damped layers ...) and the mix is quite straight forward.
It does increases the difficulty of controlling the back wave, standing waves, etc, without lots of absorbent material, but you can obtain a "better sound" using diffusers, deflection panels, etc, that doesn't 'kill off' dynamic range - not easy at first glance and good information about internal deflection methods is very hard to find - nobody seems to have consolidated the various techniques that are used, not only in hifi, but pro-audio also.
Thanks Terry for the "good oil" about the additive - I have been fooling about with the various PVA additives (yeah, fool is about right!) and will get onto that stuff of yours. Is it available at those 'Bunnings' places?
Faraday Sound used something called "super light aggregates used for concrete floors with some thermal insulating properties" and the rest standard mix. "Lytag" is the trade name of this stuff and it's processed fly-ash from coal power stations - we have a small plant here in melbourne making this special concrete and it's produced as a competition for normal delivery by the usual trucks - didn't follow up on if it's available from their plant as a dry powder mix - might be the answer ready all this time - hmmmm ....
I did some playing with the foam beads (spreads all over the place - a mess!) but couldn't get/keep it consistent thru the mix when using a vibrator table to get rid of the air pockets - drove me nuts.
I found that adding some of that 'ground rubber' chips and later added some small 5mm scoria too, stopped the baffle 'ringing' on transients especially but but it just didn't 'hang together' even after a week - no strength at all - also tried it under water for a week via some 'experts' recommendations about submersion pylons and such things - no good, unfortunately.
The new front baffle "mould" is ready to try - for the 12" bass driver is 22" x 30" (560 x 760mm) and is tapered from about 40mm thick at the edges to about 50 at the centre (driver) with a slight curve or bulge - have found that a couple of layers of that light weight square wire mesh for chicken coops, rabbit hutches, etc bonds better than the heavier reo style steel - now will check out this new additive of yours.
Somebody uses that "kitty litter" stuff as the aggregate and apparently it works very well - lost the connection to this idea.
I did get Patrick's booklet (Faraday Sound) -it doesn't say much but makes a lot more sense if you see the structures as "ridgid" chambers and not CDLs (control damped layers ...) and the mix is quite straight forward.
It does increases the difficulty of controlling the back wave, standing waves, etc, without lots of absorbent material, but you can obtain a "better sound" using diffusers, deflection panels, etc, that doesn't 'kill off' dynamic range - not easy at first glance and good information about internal deflection methods is very hard to find - nobody seems to have consolidated the various techniques that are used, not only in hifi, but pro-audio also.
Thanks Terry for the "good oil" about the additive - I have been fooling about with the various PVA additives (yeah, fool is about right!) and will get onto that stuff of yours. Is it available at those 'Bunnings' places?
Faraday Sound used something called "super light aggregates used for concrete floors with some thermal insulating properties" and the rest standard mix. "Lytag" is the trade name of this stuff and it's processed fly-ash from coal power stations - we have a small plant here in melbourne making this special concrete and it's produced as a competition for normal delivery by the usual trucks - didn't follow up on if it's available from their plant as a dry powder mix - might be the answer ready all this time - hmmmm ....
I did some playing with the foam beads (spreads all over the place - a mess!) but couldn't get/keep it consistent thru the mix when using a vibrator table to get rid of the air pockets - drove me nuts.
I found that adding some of that 'ground rubber' chips and later added some small 5mm scoria too, stopped the baffle 'ringing' on transients especially but but it just didn't 'hang together' even after a week - no strength at all - also tried it under water for a week via some 'experts' recommendations about submersion pylons and such things - no good, unfortunately.
The new front baffle "mould" is ready to try - for the 12" bass driver is 22" x 30" (560 x 760mm) and is tapered from about 40mm thick at the edges to about 50 at the centre (driver) with a slight curve or bulge - have found that a couple of layers of that light weight square wire mesh for chicken coops, rabbit hutches, etc bonds better than the heavier reo style steel - now will check out this new additive of yours.
Somebody uses that "kitty litter" stuff as the aggregate and apparently it works very well - lost the connection to this idea.
Yes, bunnings should have it. The beads are a mess to deal with because they hold a static charge. I used to fill the bag of beans with water to discharge it all before I used it. It was also the first thing I put in the big bucket, then sand and cement.
I built a system back in 1978 or so, still going strong, never had a problem.
Terry
I built a system back in 1978 or so, still going strong, never had a problem.
Terry
Ah that's good to know - will try with a fresh start and see how it comes all together - actually, better place for all this natter is your old thread - might just copy these last couple replies over there.
"This is a guide to using acoustic concrete".
The little foam beads are called "bean bag refill" and I found them in K-Mart, of all places, late one night - no staff, of course - genuine Ozzie self-service! Even got a free dent in the car!
So it comes down to 2 mixes here - foam beads, additive and sand/cement and the Faraday mix of fly-ash, sand/cement - will check out the Zeobond Engineering ("E-Crete") people - interesting.
Interesting thing - the French speaker guys "Passion/Epsilon" used a pretty standard mix for their "egg-shape & ball" chambers over the years and never had any problems - wonder if they used anything fancy?
"This is a guide to using acoustic concrete".
The little foam beads are called "bean bag refill" and I found them in K-Mart, of all places, late one night - no staff, of course - genuine Ozzie self-service! Even got a free dent in the car!
So it comes down to 2 mixes here - foam beads, additive and sand/cement and the Faraday mix of fly-ash, sand/cement - will check out the Zeobond Engineering ("E-Crete") people - interesting.
Interesting thing - the French speaker guys "Passion/Epsilon" used a pretty standard mix for their "egg-shape & ball" chambers over the years and never had any problems - wonder if they used anything fancy?
Hi James, I know this is an old post, just wondered if you still had the Faraday booklet, as I’m interested in obtaining a copy. Regards. Marc.