Hello there, first time here with Faital Pro CD's and wanted to ask a little question on this compression drivers.😱
Just decided and pulled the trigger on two of this HF10AK's since all the positive reviews and that TD-2001 performance similarity, however one has a RE of ~6.3 Ohms and the other ~5.8 Ohms(tested with a cheap DMM), I though considering the price of this CD's I would receive a matched pair or at least close, but that's not the case.
Also not having much luck with USPS lately either, the box was smashed on one side like if they were dropped
, and its clearly visible on the small HF10AK's packages, luckily they had a nice foam padding there, not Part Express fault though.
Hopefully this is no big deal as I will using them with DSP, and not worry about RMA them.
P.S. they will replace a pair of PRV D280Ti-B on LTH102.
Edit: Will do some quick REW measurements side by side and see how they compare though.
Sorry for my English.
Regards!
EDIT: I spoke too early in my last post, I'm currently under an RMA process with PE since the 2~3dB drive sensitivity difference gets even worst(4dB+) the higher the volume becomes, effective smearing/unbalancing the audio image completely, definitely an defective unit unfortunately.
Just decided and pulled the trigger on two of this HF10AK's since all the positive reviews and that TD-2001 performance similarity, however one has a RE of ~6.3 Ohms and the other ~5.8 Ohms(tested with a cheap DMM), I though considering the price of this CD's I would receive a matched pair or at least close, but that's not the case.
Also not having much luck with USPS lately either, the box was smashed on one side like if they were dropped
, and its clearly visible on the small HF10AK's packages, luckily they had a nice foam padding there, not Part Express fault though.Hopefully this is no big deal as I will using them with DSP, and not worry about RMA them.
P.S. they will replace a pair of PRV D280Ti-B on LTH102.
Edit: Will do some quick REW measurements side by side and see how they compare though.
Sorry for my English.
Regards!
EDIT: I spoke too early in my last post, I'm currently under an RMA process with PE since the 2~3dB drive sensitivity difference gets even worst(4dB+) the higher the volume becomes, effective smearing/unbalancing the audio image completely, definitely an defective unit unfortunately.
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This is unusually to have so much difference in a DC measurement of the voice coils. I would raise a case where you have had them supplied. If you can re-check or try to measure with another meter I would do that first.
I am looking forward, to see you measurements. I have seen these drivers measured in the German DIY audio magazine. I dont remember the horn used, and that was not nearly as good as a TAD driver.
I am looking forward, to see you measurements. I have seen these drivers measured in the German DIY audio magazine. I dont remember the horn used, and that was not nearly as good as a TAD driver.
Hi thanks for the response, since one of the CD where not aligned with the mounting holes pattern(one had the brand upside down), I've decide to carefully open them and carefully inspect the diaphragms and internal construction, just found that both exhibit the same internal quality and the nice cast aluminum basket with a foam inside.🙂
However I've also noticed that both diaphragms had an black tape on top of the aluminum ring
, so as a guess that tape may be to add an extra clamping force and/or to reduce vibrations between the metals, but like I said just a guess, since I've seen others Faital Pro replacements that does not have this black tape on them, for example the replacement "HF10RK L192260" the 16 Ohms version like shown below:
Regardless I will try to quick test them just to see for performance similarity but not with precision either, hopefully during weekend.
Regards
However I've also noticed that both diaphragms had an black tape on top of the aluminum ring
, so as a guess that tape may be to add an extra clamping force and/or to reduce vibrations between the metals, but like I said just a guess, since I've seen others Faital Pro replacements that does not have this black tape on them, for example the replacement "HF10RK L192260" the 16 Ohms version like shown below:Regardless I will try to quick test them just to see for performance similarity but not with precision either, hopefully during weekend.
Regards
Thank for the reply TNT, I'm still considering it since returning things from PR to USA is a bit of a hassle, but will read they return policy and check if the shipping charges are covered on this situation, but eventually disappointed and more with USPS dropping packages.😡
By the way I could not sleep thinking on this so took the hassle and quick tested each HF10AK against the PRV D280Ti-B.
Here are the REW quick tests:
Violet: FaitalPro HF10AK #1 RE 6.3ohms
Green: FaitalPro HF10AK #2 RE 5.8ohms
At this point non sure if I should ask for a replacements or an matched HF10AK pair, as the later lead that they need to open the original packages to take measurements, and I should had to pray for USPS not to drop the package even harder than they arrive dancing and sparkling inside the box lol.
Regards
By the way I could not sleep thinking on this so took the hassle and quick tested each HF10AK against the PRV D280Ti-B.
Here are the REW quick tests:
Violet: FaitalPro HF10AK #1 RE 6.3ohms
Green: FaitalPro HF10AK #2 RE 5.8ohms
At this point non sure if I should ask for a replacements or an matched HF10AK pair, as the later lead that they need to open the original packages to take measurements, and I should had to pray for USPS not to drop the package even harder than they arrive dancing and sparkling inside the box lol.
Regards
Here is a less scaled image topping 115dB, they look pretty much same but have about ~2dB'ish diff, interestingly the D280Ti-B both measured RE very close and they still had about ~1dB'ish diff and about ~2dB in the 6KHz region like shown on the previous image.
Still unsure if I take the risk again with USPS(as UPS/Fedex overcharge to my location for few pounds) and return for a replacements, or keep dreaming that some company will sell the HF10AK or others diaphragms in true matched pairs(like wen buying tubes), so I can get a pair on the future when replacement time arrives.
Between sounded the same by hear(pure speculations) but a tad of level adjust may fix this, also understand that this is not like buying matched TAD driver$$$, but I still think when drivers past they $200 tag, they at least should put a label of they actual RE wen factory packed
, so distributors can at least group them in pairs or at least sell them based on they closest RE to avoid this kind of issues.
Regards
Still unsure if I take the risk again with USPS(as UPS/Fedex overcharge to my location for few pounds) and return for a replacements, or keep dreaming that some company will sell the HF10AK or others diaphragms in true matched pairs(like wen buying tubes), so I can get a pair on the future when replacement time arrives.
Between sounded the same by hear(pure speculations) but a tad of level adjust may fix this, also understand that this is not like buying matched TAD driver$$$, but I still think when drivers past they $200 tag, they at least should put a label of they actual RE wen factory packed
, so distributors can at least group them in pairs or at least sell them based on they closest RE to avoid this kind of issues.Regards
Hi, I opened once my hf10ak and it measured real bad until opened it again and really carefully checked everything was lined up perfectly. I don't remember if I compared two working units.
If you want match two loudspeaker specta in room, you have to EQ them anyway so wouldn't be too worried about it. Could be a measurement error as well (mic / subject moved a bit). I don't know how close other manufacturers get each product. You could check how impedance measurements compare.
If you want match two loudspeaker specta in room, you have to EQ them anyway so wouldn't be too worried about it. Could be a measurement error as well (mic / subject moved a bit). I don't know how close other manufacturers get each product. You could check how impedance measurements compare.
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I'd say that you need to simply find a way to live with those differences ( such as adding some Level and EQ to make the 2 drivers match ).
If you can't manage that, then send them back for a refund and keep using the PRVs ( they're nicely matched ).
🙂
If you can't manage that, then send them back for a refund and keep using the PRVs ( they're nicely matched ).
🙂
Distortion measurements can help with alignment, but the difference in resistance is puzzling. If you have shorted turns then you have a problem.
Hi, that was I did here too, but I mainly opened both CD's to inspect them as the package arrives beaten up, also I will match them with DSP/levels indeed since is way easier then working with passive crossovers, I will give them some listen and start using more my hears then the mic and REW.
Hi, I will use the HF10AK's, they sounded very fuller and way less harsh then the D280Ti, maybe since they less hot in the 1.5~3KHz region or due non metallic material used, also definitely I should start living with this little changes and stop worrying too much on measurements.🙄
Hi, the manufacturer publish a RE of about ~5.8 ohms for this driver, since the other just has a tad more RE, I guess that the diaphragm has more turns or used smaller gauge wire, guess the later is less likely though, but time will tell however.🙂
Regards
Update on the HF10AK's.
After stopping with measurements and my paranoid in regards driver RE and shipping mistreat, I put several hours listening to some genres such as rock, pop, electronic/dance, ballad etc. with the HF10AK/LTH102 combo with no hear fatigue at all.😎
Definitely this drivers sounds pretty good and mated very well with my 10" midwoofers at 1.3KHz/LR4, the speakers became more fuller/spaciousness yet with the crispy high frequency top end which I like a lot, very smooth and silky but with the efficiency and dynamic headroom to spare.
I certainly don't go back to drivers with metallic diaphragms since after trying few(low cost ones though), found them a little thin sounding and/or causing some ear fatigue after extended listening periods.🙄
Regards
After stopping with measurements and my paranoid in regards driver RE and shipping mistreat, I put several hours listening to some genres such as rock, pop, electronic/dance, ballad etc. with the HF10AK/LTH102 combo with no hear fatigue at all.😎
Definitely this drivers sounds pretty good
and mated very well with my 10" midwoofers at 1.3KHz/LR4, the speakers became more fuller/spaciousness yet with the crispy high frequency top end which I like a lot, very smooth and silky but with the efficiency and dynamic headroom to spare.I certainly don't go back to drivers with metallic diaphragms since after trying few(low cost ones though), found them a little thin sounding and/or causing some ear fatigue after extended listening periods.🙄
Regards
Update
PE finally approved my HF10AK replacements after they saw the USPS devastated shipping cartoon, they customer service is prompt and top notch.
So the drivers arrived today and I did some quick-dirty measurements, also I've measured with another DMM and the result were as follow:
New CD's RE measurements:
CD #1: 6.0 Ohms
CD #2: 6.1 Ohms
This new drivers looks more than balanced enough.😎
Old CD's RE measurements:
CD #1: 6.0 Ohms
CD #2: 5.5 Ohms
Enough said with the above, one driver has a whopping 0.5 Ohms diff, and on top of that the driver output inbalance gets worse when the volume is cranked up.
REW testing(Room environment changed):
Drivers inspected and ready to be mounted with third party stainless steel hardware,the washer, lock-washer and the nut.🙂
REW quick test on the new CD's:
This drivers looks alot more balanced across the Fq and only small PEQ in the 2.1~2.8Khz and 10~12Khz is only needed to perfect match them.
Old CD's REW test for comparison:
This older drivers requires some level/peq in the 2~3Khz, 5~8Khz, 9~12Khz and 15~18Khz, however the audio image still suffers when cranked to high volumes.
Conclusion:
I'm still listening tho this HF10AK replacements and boy this drivers are indeed amazing, blasting this speakers and this drivers sound is so smooth, silky with they extended HF and dynamics, and the image is not compromised either, I will definitely recommend this drivers for home Hi-Fi 2-CH setups.
P.S. I will recommend users to always measure compression drivers resistance(RE) and to check tolerances match manufactures specs, or at least check they under 0.3 Ohms or less to avoid further issues and sound quality compromises, as tweeters in 2-Way speakers plays the most important role.😉
Regards
PE finally approved my HF10AK replacements after they saw the USPS devastated shipping cartoon, they customer service is prompt and top notch.
So the drivers arrived today and I did some quick-dirty measurements, also I've measured with another DMM and the result were as follow:
New CD's RE measurements:
CD #1: 6.0 Ohms
CD #2: 6.1 Ohms
This new drivers looks more than balanced enough.😎
Old CD's RE measurements:
CD #1: 6.0 Ohms
CD #2: 5.5 Ohms
Enough said with the above, one driver has a whopping 0.5 Ohms diff, and on top of that the driver output inbalance gets worse when the volume is cranked up.
REW testing(Room environment changed):
Drivers inspected and ready to be mounted with third party stainless steel hardware,the washer, lock-washer and the nut.🙂
REW quick test on the new CD's:
This drivers looks alot more balanced across the Fq and only small PEQ in the 2.1~2.8Khz and 10~12Khz is only needed to perfect match them.
Old CD's REW test for comparison:
This older drivers requires some level/peq in the 2~3Khz, 5~8Khz, 9~12Khz and 15~18Khz, however the audio image still suffers when cranked to high volumes.
Conclusion:
I'm still listening tho this HF10AK replacements and boy this drivers are indeed amazing, blasting this speakers and this drivers sound is so smooth, silky with they extended HF and dynamics, and the image is not compromised either, I will definitely recommend this drivers for home Hi-Fi 2-CH setups.
P.S. I will recommend users to always measure compression drivers resistance(RE) and to check tolerances match manufactures specs, or at least check they under 0.3 Ohms or less to avoid further issues and sound quality compromises, as tweeters in 2-Way speakers plays the most important role.😉
Regards
