Some would argue that it is all speaker dependant. I have found there is definitely a point where more available power does not improve the sound any and you begin to look to other areas for change/adjustment. THat being siad, for most folks using multiways speakers, a 100W Class A amp is not too much, especially when considering the transient needs of such setups. I think it large comes down to ease of presentation of music. Once you get to a point where you do not feel increasing the power is changing this, you probably are in a good spot.
I suspect that with most speakers and most listening conditions in most houses, that peak output voltage is not a problem. I think we may more often distort the waveform due to current clipping, particularly if our peak to average overhead is maintained around the 20dB range.
50W into 8ohms, but feeding a 4ohms speaker, can require transient currents approaching 30Apk. Not many 50W amplifiers can maintain drive voltage while delivering 30Apk. That's what I see as the problem at "sensible" levels.
Playing loud and well into voltage clipping is a different ball game.
50W into 8ohms, but feeding a 4ohms speaker, can require transient currents approaching 30Apk. Not many 50W amplifiers can maintain drive voltage while delivering 30Apk. That's what I see as the problem at "sensible" levels.
Playing loud and well into voltage clipping is a different ball game.
Buzz. i need 100W to get to the same point😀
but thats the way it has to be when i can't stand horns😀
but thats the way it has to be when i can't stand horns😀
I may not like them either, dunno yet, but there is something attractive about having that kinda dynamic swing available. I am looking forward to your build
I currently have standard 2-way floorstanders that is rated at 89db. My KSA50 can drive those at levels that hurts my ears. I however have been eyeing the Troels Gravesen DTQWT Mark II design. My room is 5 by 4 meters.
Sorry for OT.
Sorry for OT.
Would It be silly to ask you henryve to compare your KSA50 to the F5t
Not with what sounds better or worse but the differences ?
Not with what sounds better or worse but the differences ?
Still need to get the transformer and heatsinks for the F5T, so it might be a while.
I see thanks, Im almost complete with my build but as its not being built for me had to rush, Its much nicer taking a little bit of time!
here how we begin to wire up the 4th version of the power supply when the other 3 were causing issues.
Point-to-point and Thick wire all the way, getting there and a little bit more to do then wire up then test then hopefully nice clean PSU.
Point-to-point and Thick wire all the way, getting there and a little bit more to do then wire up then test then hopefully nice clean PSU.
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I looks like you are going to attach the power ground to each channel at the end of capacitor run. That will not get you the single point or star ground you need to eliminate hum.
All the grounds should come to one point in the center of the capacitor bank, not at the ends. I would bridge a heavy wire between the runs in the middle and tie all the channel grounds (power and speaker) at that one point. It only takes a few inches of wire separation to induce hum.
Rush
Why are you doubling up the hard-wiring of the smoothing caps?
Bring the rectifier in at one end. Take the power out at the other end.
Bring the rectifier in at one end. Take the power out at the other end.
wow. should i realy build the v3's?😀 i massured the AC on the speakers today. when i run my F5 full out, with the gain i got (low from the PC) around 7V AC. 10V peak. so. 7*7/6ohm =8.1W. at that Level was more then i need🙂 i wonder, is my DMM off?😀😀
Very possible, but that is not to say you will not like the change. The f5 did not even hold a candle to the f5T, IMO, but it is speaker/system based in the end.
Buzz. i know🙂 it will be build😀 they will be up and running this winter. as soon as my new speakers are done. and v2 will be ready for next summer😀
My grounding layout in the PSU was a problem
"I would bridge a heavy wire between the runs in the middle and tie all the channel grounds"
thanks was the original Idea 🙂
"I would bridge a heavy wire between the runs in the middle and tie all the channel grounds"
thanks was the original Idea 🙂
Well im not going to avoid my embarrassment, blew up one channel today after rewiring with better wire and taking the ground from the center point rather than from the end of the capacitor bank, which of course seems the right thing to do, so somewhere i made an error!
I think im out of my depth realy and am going to leave this project sadly the owner who wanted me to build it will have to find someone else to fix and finish it, he will be willing to pay them.
I told the guy i was building it for that id Built an F5 but that i wasn't ready to build the F5t but he insisted and also wanted the extra 25w per channel. I have built a F5 successfully but knew F5t was a pushing it a bit for my abilities.
Considering im no electrician but that its just a fun hobby I think I Did pretty well 😀 But now its back to the music the guitar and singing which im Far better at! thanks for all the help guys 😀
I think im out of my depth realy and am going to leave this project sadly the owner who wanted me to build it will have to find someone else to fix and finish it, he will be willing to pay them.
I told the guy i was building it for that id Built an F5 but that i wasn't ready to build the F5t but he insisted and also wanted the extra 25w per channel. I have built a F5 successfully but knew F5t was a pushing it a bit for my abilities.
Considering im no electrician but that its just a fun hobby I think I Did pretty well 😀 But now its back to the music the guitar and singing which im Far better at! thanks for all the help guys 😀
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