Yes, I always trot out the F6 when listening to Montovani or Lawrence Welk.
Hmm...Geritol. Yum!
elwood625
Ive never heard of "Geritol" I though maybe a new opamp better than F6 for my needs, but all I could find on google was-
"prevent vitamin deficiency ... during pregnancy."
so if I could just point out im not pregnant , I just look that way.☺
Ive never heard of "Geritol" I though maybe a new opamp better than F6 for my needs, but all I could find on google was-
"prevent vitamin deficiency ... during pregnancy."
so if I could just point out im not pregnant , I just look that way.☺
Geritol targeted old folks, and I believe Geritol is based on the word geriatric.
I remember watching the Ted Mack Amateur Hour (it was only half an hour long) in the sixties when I was a kid and Geritol was a major sponsor, along with Sominex, which was a sleep aid.
So it's for old folks.
I remember watching the Ted Mack Amateur Hour (it was only half an hour long) in the sixties when I was a kid and Geritol was a major sponsor, along with Sominex, which was a sleep aid.
So it's for old folks.
I finished my F5 three days ago.
I let it cook the first day, then listen most of the day yesterday until late at night.
I switch on today and listen for another three hours.
I wanted to check the bias as mention in different threads, so I open the chassis and I found this :
Fuite-Nichicon--IMG_20191008_112013-copie.jpg - Google Drive
So I am going to wipe it out, but is it nescessary to change it ?
I let it cook the first day, then listen most of the day yesterday until late at night.
I switch on today and listen for another three hours.
I wanted to check the bias as mention in different threads, so I open the chassis and I found this :
Fuite-Nichicon--IMG_20191008_112013-copie.jpg - Google Drive
So I am going to wipe it out, but is it nescessary to change it ?
Check the level of ripple on this rail, and then check if the capacitors that you will use as a replacement are of sufficient ripple current and/or temperature handling capability.
Actually, when I recieved them all, they were packed into a bubble plastic pouch, and there was already a leakage but I couldn't figure out which one was bad or even if few were.
I bought two extra and they seem ok.
Now, as I have to replace it, I wonder if I shouldn't do it for all with another brand, Mundorf for example.
It could be also because I used tin solder only with no lead and I needed to heat up like mad. That was the only components soldered with that crappy solder.
I bought two extra and they seem ok.
Now, as I have to replace it, I wonder if I shouldn't do it for all with another brand, Mundorf for example.
It could be also because I used tin solder only with no lead and I needed to heat up like mad. That was the only components soldered with that crappy solder.
Nichicon is a good brand.
That assumes they're genuine. Do capacitors get counterfeited?
I do try to limit heat when soldering. But that's more out of fear than knowledge....
That assumes they're genuine. Do capacitors get counterfeited?
I do try to limit heat when soldering. But that's more out of fear than knowledge....
I just change the cap, look at measures, seems good (considering I am looking at the right ones (zero at the output - around 50v at the PSU but obviously less - and maximum possible at R8 or R7), I let it cook and see later again tonight.
If they're from Mouser then I would expect they are genuine; more likely you just
had one that was damaged (perhaps in transit)?
had one that was damaged (perhaps in transit)?
It can happen, no big deal, Mouser don't sell purposely deficient items !
As I knew these things happen, I ordered more items than needed.
For example I have a spare rectifer , fuses , Jfets, resistors and still one more of these caps.
Just finished assembling my F-5, but I keep blowing the fuses when powering up (I don't have a Variac, so full on...). I tested the power supply before connecting the boards and it ran without a problem. I re-checked all the connections and P1 and P2 are all the way anti-clockwise (until they make this clicky sound). P3 is not installed as I don't have the measuring equipment.
See some pictures attached. Any idea where the problem could be?
See some pictures attached. Any idea where the problem could be?
Attachments
Did you try to power it up via a series old-tech filament bulb/halogen_lamp, of a wattage higher than the whole amplifier? The "soft-start" concept to fill up the filter capacitors, under load?
Attachments
Baobei,
Are you using a slow blow fuse?
Can you please measure the resistance across R6 and R5? Are they close to zero?
If not, turn the pots P1 and P2 in the opposite direction until they are close to zero.
Then try powering up again.
Dennis
Are you using a slow blow fuse?
Can you please measure the resistance across R6 and R5? Are they close to zero?
If not, turn the pots P1 and P2 in the opposite direction until they are close to zero.
Then try powering up again.
Dennis
As Dennis says, measure ohms across R6 and R5 and adjust the pots in whatever way is necessary to make that reading zero or very little. The pots don't necessary turn "down" by being turned anti-clockwise.
Thanks a lot guys! Measured R5 and R6 and it looks like I did turn them the wrong way around... 😱
Add that to my list of silly beginner's mistakes.
I'll try biasing again when I can find time later this week hopefully.
Add that to my list of silly beginner's mistakes.
I'll try biasing again when I can find time later this week hopefully.