apassgear said:
The pictures aren't the best in the world, but:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=120673
Grey
Nice amp Grey but I thought you were going to show us some board layouts to see the principles you talked about above.
First run, working out the details and getting familiar with the process.
Back to it.
7/10
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Back to it.
7/10
Dougie,
It's not bad at all. The problems I had were very minor and the board should be perfectly serviceable. However, I didn't mirror the image before printing . DOH
I'll run a few more over the weekend.
7/10
It's not bad at all. The problems I had were very minor and the board should be perfectly serviceable. However, I didn't mirror the image before printing . DOH
I'll run a few more over the weekend.
7/10
Gee, great work Darren, congrats for that.
The file I sent had both images, componet and copper side so just pick the one suitable for your process.
😎
The file I sent had both images, componet and copper side so just pick the one suitable for your process.
😎
The Geinus is back!
Steve,
..........So you are back from the cooler. You should try a long break like me...................still trying to hawk you transformer coupled devices.................? 😀 😀 😀
Regards,
Jam
Steve,
..........So you are back from the cooler. You should try a long break like me...................still trying to hawk you transformer coupled devices.................? 😀 😀 😀
Regards,
Jam
Tony,
Thanks! I was referring the text. I'd like to make sure that you and Nelson get due credit without having to resort to including a strategically placed mirror in the final build 😀
7/10
Thanks! I was referring the text. I'd like to make sure that you and Nelson get due credit without having to resort to including a strategically placed mirror in the final build 😀
7/10
Ohhhhhhhh, I get the point. I don't need credit thou, it's all Nelson's. I did forget to mirror the letters.
It appears that the program I’m using does not allow this.
It appears that the program I’m using does not allow this.
A lot of folks do not have the means of using software with unlimited sizes/pads.
On the other hand, Grey is not obliged to post his guidelines on layout and sizes, i'd welcome any positive advice.
As this is DIY, you can do anything you fancy, like with the heatsink talk, why duplicate if you can go really one-off buzurk ?
I'd like to stick power amps inside 8' lengths of giant cross-dimensional sized used sailboat booms, the boom "tube" being both amp case and heatsink. Cost of that stuff is scrap value, only requires a good anodising job.
Two of them booms would look so cool inside a boaty's livingroom, if i could figure out a way of mounting the output devices inside the profiles.
On the other hand, Grey is not obliged to post his guidelines on layout and sizes, i'd welcome any positive advice.
As this is DIY, you can do anything you fancy, like with the heatsink talk, why duplicate if you can go really one-off buzurk ?
I'd like to stick power amps inside 8' lengths of giant cross-dimensional sized used sailboat booms, the boom "tube" being both amp case and heatsink. Cost of that stuff is scrap value, only requires a good anodising job.
Two of them booms would look so cool inside a boaty's livingroom, if i could figure out a way of mounting the output devices inside the profiles.
Semi-off topic
But a quickie anyways - its about DIY PCB creation. My new printer has a tray that allows it to print the face of CD's and DVD's. Which makes me wonder if the black ink of an Epson photo printer is a.) "dark" enough to work for photo resist layer and b.) likely to dry and stick. IF so, it would be pretty damn simple to make boards just about as fast as you could print them once I hacked a tray for them.
But a quickie anyways - its about DIY PCB creation. My new printer has a tray that allows it to print the face of CD's and DVD's. Which makes me wonder if the black ink of an Epson photo printer is a.) "dark" enough to work for photo resist layer and b.) likely to dry and stick. IF so, it would be pretty damn simple to make boards just about as fast as you could print them once I hacked a tray for them.
If you search the web there is a guide on modifying an Epson C89 I believe it is to print directly onto PCB's.
Re: Semi-off topic
I have use photo sensitive boards in the past by printing the the artwork to transparency foils, and then exposing and etching the board.
Sawzall said:
I have use photo sensitive boards in the past by printing the the artwork to transparency foils, and then exposing and etching the board.
I just checked at Mouser.
FQA12P20 is US$0.68 at quantities 250+.
FQA19N20C is US$0.57 @ 250+.
Anyone interested in organising a group buy + matching ?
We really need some volunteer in the US. With 30% import tax, shipment cost, etc., it just does not make sense to get them sent to Europe and then distribute to the rest of the world. Otherwise I would have been quite happy to do so.
Failing that, I shall probably order from Fairchild Direct. Quite a bit more expensive.
Patrick
FQA12P20 is US$0.68 at quantities 250+.
FQA19N20C is US$0.57 @ 250+.
Anyone interested in organising a group buy + matching ?
We really need some volunteer in the US. With 30% import tax, shipment cost, etc., it just does not make sense to get them sent to Europe and then distribute to the rest of the world. Otherwise I would have been quite happy to do so.
Failing that, I shall probably order from Fairchild Direct. Quite a bit more expensive.
Patrick
