F5 Article Headphone Amp

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Hi,

I've been looking at this F5 article circuit on and off for a couple months.
I have a couple basic questions.

Is the 16 ohm resistor rated at 16W?

16v through 16 ohms is 1 amp? 1A x 16v=16w?

Thanks,

Vince
 

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no feedback in classic way , because there is no significant series impedance in gate...so biasing voltage divider

better use 8K2 in series with 5K pot (connected as variable resistor) , instead of 10K

though = you need that only if you want to tweak Iq

if not , everything as is , use matched mosfets and you'll have same Iq in both channels , slightly smaller than 1A
 
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Before I posted #7, I looked at MoFo schematic because it uses feedback. Wanted to see how it used the trim pot.
Feedback not really used in followers?

BTW- can build this amp for a few dollars if you already have a couple mosfets and a 24v high current computer power supply.
I have a 24v 8A supply waiting for a job.
 
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well , source follower is all feedback ........ so whatever you do from drain , where there is steady DC and zero AC , you can't induce any feedback

remember that guy from Yore , having enormous Lever , but no one gave him standfast , so he couldn't move Earth :clown:

there is no standfast for feedback on drain

and yes - this thingie is same as Mofo..... just having big fat resistor instead of choke
 
...Is the 16 ohm resistor rated at 16W?...

It *dissipates* 16 Watts, yes.

If you build cheap and sell on 30-day warranty, a 16W rating may be good enough (but a fire hazard).

For yourself, *always* double the dissipation then round-up generously when you shop. A 25W sand resistor really is not enough. The "50W" chassis-mount only do 50 real Watts on a HEAVY chassis or honest heatsink. Myself I'd look for four 10W 64 Ohm sand-resistors and some hi-temp lug-board. I have used 25W chassis-mount at 4W each on a heavy chassis (special case: home heat fan controller, and I don't want it to fail on a bad day).
 
I do appreciate the advice and teachings.
I really do. However, in my own defends, if my calculation was correct, which it was, but used incorrect equation to get there, I would have used the next highest value wattage. Here's why.

The Son of Zen article. It's says, unlike the mosfets, you can run power resistors closer to their power rating. I don't even have to look it up. I remember it.

This is why guys like me get confused and ask questions all the time. Despite seeming like rules, things in electronics seem more like moving targets.

Seriously, thanks again.
I already bought 50 watters.

Vince
 
I was wondering if 10k or 47k was providing bias or both acting as voltage divider?

It's actually a rather poor way of providing bias (that schematic isn't full fledged, it is there for illustration). It will inject the PS noise at the input. It would be better to run a divider with a 22uF cap in // with the bottom resistor and take the bias from there through a 100k resistor.

It will also limit the start up thump from the output cap by slowly ramping up the bias.
 
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Vince - this would be a great opportunity to try an inductor instead of the resistor, I.E., build it as shown and then swap out the source resistance for a choke and make it a MoFo. See which sounds better.
 
More like this.

This being said, the cap might not be actually necessary with a switching PS; some are very quiet at audio frequencies, even under heavy load. But some headphones are also very sensitive...

Another possibility is to do it like Pete Millet did it for his hybrid, by adding a RC filter before the bias divider.
 

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