Behringer, so no schematics but it's probably copied off someone else... ;-)
The sub will be on the floor next to the speakers. It is based around a Peerless XLS 10" in a sealed box of around 30 L with a linkwitz transform to adjust Q to 0.71 and cutoff to 25Hz powered by 300W RMS. (should be ok, gain by transform is not too high)
The sub will be on the floor next to the speakers. It is based around a Peerless XLS 10" in a sealed box of around 30 L with a linkwitz transform to adjust Q to 0.71 and cutoff to 25Hz powered by 300W RMS. (should be ok, gain by transform is not too high)
The reason I asked about the crossover is what you should be doing requires a 2nd order electronic high pass at around 80Hz on the main speaker amp. Doesn't the crossover have a 2nd order high pass option?
Maybe you would consider a different crossover? You really need 4th order low pass and 2nd order high pass.
Maybe you would consider a different crossover? You really need 4th order low pass and 2nd order high pass.
I was thinking of working out the schematic from the circuit board and bypassing one of the two 2nd order filters that makes the 4th order high pass. This would work wouldn't it?
The thing is that the control for the freq feels like an attenuator - i.e. it doesn't turn smoothly. How likely is this? It would obviosuly not be adjustable enough to properly tailor to the driver in the box if this is the case...
The thing is that the control for the freq feels like an attenuator - i.e. it doesn't turn smoothly. How likely is this? It would obviosuly not be adjustable enough to properly tailor to the driver in the box if this is the case...
Assuming that both halves of the filter are identical, what you suggest might be practical but that would depend upon the type of filter it is. What you really need is a schematic.
If it's a stepped frequency selector and you can't get the frequency you want, consider changing the capacitor values. Again, it depends upon the filter type.
If it's a stepped frequency selector and you can't get the frequency you want, consider changing the capacitor values. Again, it depends upon the filter type.
Could use the following design for a sub, which doesn't require a high pass on the mid driver, it relies on the 12db/oct roll off of the box.
http://sound.westhost.com/project48.htm
This would need a box for the XLS 10" sub with a resonance of around 80Hz, requiring a box volume of 5 litres, which I don't actually think is possible given the size of the driver basket and magnet!!!!
Woudln't it be nice to have an easy life?!!
http://sound.westhost.com/project48.htm
This would need a box for the XLS 10" sub with a resonance of around 80Hz, requiring a box volume of 5 litres, which I don't actually think is possible given the size of the driver basket and magnet!!!!
Woudln't it be nice to have an easy life?!!
My knowledge of crossover design is not very complete, so I apologise in advance for my stupidity:
If I were going to build my own crossover for the sub/mid consisting of a 12db/oct high pass (combining with the high pass formed by the mid enclosure) and a 24db/oct low pass how would I go about this? I assume I'd find the peak impedance of the driver in the box which would give the F3, but where from here?
If I were going to build my own crossover for the sub/mid consisting of a 12db/oct high pass (combining with the high pass formed by the mid enclosure) and a 24db/oct low pass how would I go about this? I assume I'd find the peak impedance of the driver in the box which would give the F3, but where from here?
It would be preferable to have a high pass on the main speakers in order in increase power handling and limit excursion.
24db/o low pass on the woofer and 12db/o hi pass on the mid is going to require an electronic crossover. A passive network is out of the question.
I have the 24/12 bi-amp solution on what passes for my HT installation and am very pleased. And, believe it or not, the electronic crossover I'm using is made for cars. I just added a 12v power supply.
24db/o low pass on the woofer and 12db/o hi pass on the mid is going to require an electronic crossover. A passive network is out of the question.
I have the 24/12 bi-amp solution on what passes for my HT installation and am very pleased. And, believe it or not, the electronic crossover I'm using is made for cars. I just added a 12v power supply.
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