C9 Value
Hi, some informations needed about C9 cap.
Are those a valuable choice (Farnell parts N°) :
a - 1100502
b - 1264873
c - 9411682
d - 1138901
Thanks !
Hi, some informations needed about C9 cap.
Are those a valuable choice (Farnell parts N°) :
a - 1100502
b - 1264873
c - 9411682
d - 1138901
Thanks !
Calculating R5
Hey all.
Got a question about calculating the value for R5.
According to the ZV9 manual, there are three ways to do it. Using a distortion analyser (no dice), testing the jfet as per the schematic (which I tried, but for some reason, I was getting voltages like 0.74 across the resistor, well outside the range in the manual. I'm assuming I did something wrong, dunno what though ...), and the third option was to set R3 so that Vds is 2.5V, with the output DC at 23V ...
How do you determine that value then ?
Hey all.
Got a question about calculating the value for R5.
According to the ZV9 manual, there are three ways to do it. Using a distortion analyser (no dice), testing the jfet as per the schematic (which I tried, but for some reason, I was getting voltages like 0.74 across the resistor, well outside the range in the manual. I'm assuming I did something wrong, dunno what though ...), and the third option was to set R3 so that Vds is 2.5V, with the output DC at 23V ...
How do you determine that value then ?
Lordvader,
I can share a little about the source resistance and distortion.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1248736#post1248736
When I built the second amp the total source resistance of 0.5 ohms (2//2//1) produced a little more than 0.04 % distortion (1 watt and 8 ohm load). When I adjusted the total source resistance to 0.55 ohms the distortion went to about 0.015%. Yes thats right .05 ohms and most of us are using 5% resistors. My point is you can get pretty good distortion numbers by using what Nelson had presented in the Ver 9 articles.
Vgs at lowest distortion was 0.87V for one and 0.89V for the other.
BDP
I can share a little about the source resistance and distortion.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1248736#post1248736
When I built the second amp the total source resistance of 0.5 ohms (2//2//1) produced a little more than 0.04 % distortion (1 watt and 8 ohm load). When I adjusted the total source resistance to 0.55 ohms the distortion went to about 0.015%. Yes thats right .05 ohms and most of us are using 5% resistors. My point is you can get pretty good distortion numbers by using what Nelson had presented in the Ver 9 articles.
Vgs at lowest distortion was 0.87V for one and 0.89V for the other.
BDP
I just got 50V elna caps for all the 220uF. Will they work fine or am I cutting it too close?
With regards to to C1/C10/C8 what is the smallest voltage i should get? 50V?
With regards to to C1/C10/C8 what is the smallest voltage i should get? 50V?
F3 cap voltages
50 volt for electros is fine, although sometimes wider range at 63v (okay).
The old stock Elna Cerafines are quite good, otherwise look to Pana FC, Nichicon Muse KZ (maybe FG), Rubicon B/Gates (maybe ZL), etc.
For C8 it is better to go for a higher voltage propylene cap and hence spend some money on this one. C2 can be 35v, maybe even 25v.
Suggest higher current rating ripple caps (physically bigger, too) in the power supply, rather than the compact size ones (for same uF) and avoid wirewound R in the C-R-C.
Good quality connection wire is essential.
The amp is not dead silent, but still quiet enough.
Will maybe need to upgrade the ICs and perhaps set your speakers up again - extraordinary performance, this amp - well worth extra care, attention, & cost.
50 volt for electros is fine, although sometimes wider range at 63v (okay).
The old stock Elna Cerafines are quite good, otherwise look to Pana FC, Nichicon Muse KZ (maybe FG), Rubicon B/Gates (maybe ZL), etc.
For C8 it is better to go for a higher voltage propylene cap and hence spend some money on this one. C2 can be 35v, maybe even 25v.
Suggest higher current rating ripple caps (physically bigger, too) in the power supply, rather than the compact size ones (for same uF) and avoid wirewound R in the C-R-C.
Good quality connection wire is essential.
The amp is not dead silent, but still quiet enough.
Will maybe need to upgrade the ICs and perhaps set your speakers up again - extraordinary performance, this amp - well worth extra care, attention, & cost.
I still haven't received the boards (from 12 september!!!!)
it looks like they are blocked somewhere in the italian customs ....Italian Post/customs sucks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
😡 😡 😡 😡 😡
Merry Christmas and happy New Year to everybody
Boris





Merry Christmas and happy New Year to everybody
Boris
Re: F3 cap voltages
Due to limited space on our boards I ordered MKT (Vishay MKT1817). I hope these are not too dishonorable for this great amplifier.
Greetings,
Chris
jameshillj said:For C8 it is better to go for a higher voltage propylene cap and hence spend some money on this one.
Due to limited space on our boards I ordered MKT (Vishay MKT1817). I hope these are not too dishonorable for this great amplifier.

Greetings,
Chris
F3 caps
Peter has designed a number of options into the pcb, including leaving the C1 off the board and so can use the vacant space for other options - if the pcb is raised higher above the heatsink, you can add components below the board also. such as trimming resistors, bipass caps (if desired), connecting wires, etc.
Many people find that "bipassing" good electros detracts from the sound - simpler the better - often true - continuing technical discussion on another thread, worth a visit.
The 1817s are okay.
My C1 (at present) is a large Rifa 15,000/40v [50mm dia x 75mm high] mounted off-board and has a big, fat companion 4.7uF ICW Clarity Cap added which complements the C10 BlackGate (a bit surprising, this!) plus the 0.1uF Styrene (now sub for C8) - the sound of this "construction site" is a little "too-top-end" until the caps settle down.
.
Obviously, a simpler &/or better assortment of caps will result in a different sound for you - this selection is just an example of going a bit over-the-top - it's good to push the limits!
Peter has designed a number of options into the pcb, including leaving the C1 off the board and so can use the vacant space for other options - if the pcb is raised higher above the heatsink, you can add components below the board also. such as trimming resistors, bipass caps (if desired), connecting wires, etc.
Many people find that "bipassing" good electros detracts from the sound - simpler the better - often true - continuing technical discussion on another thread, worth a visit.
The 1817s are okay.
My C1 (at present) is a large Rifa 15,000/40v [50mm dia x 75mm high] mounted off-board and has a big, fat companion 4.7uF ICW Clarity Cap added which complements the C10 BlackGate (a bit surprising, this!) plus the 0.1uF Styrene (now sub for C8) - the sound of this "construction site" is a little "too-top-end" until the caps settle down.
.
Obviously, a simpler &/or better assortment of caps will result in a different sound for you - this selection is just an example of going a bit over-the-top - it's good to push the limits!
113 days after Peter Daniel sent the F3 boards they finally arrived at my home. THANK YOU POSTE ITALIANE SPA!!!!!!😡 😡 😡 😡 😡
Never never again. I will use UPS instead.
They look great and i hope i will start building my F3 in a couple of days.
Bye
Never never again. I will use UPS instead.
They look great and i hope i will start building my F3 in a couple of days.
Bye
Hello Boris!
good news for you.
and hopefully for me 🙂 my F3 boards were shipped mid September and since then not yet delivered, package still blocked at the Customs. 😡
happy building, have fun.
ciao
.vale.
good news for you.
and hopefully for me 🙂 my F3 boards were shipped mid September and since then not yet delivered, package still blocked at the Customs. 😡
happy building, have fun.
ciao
.vale.
Any F3 PCB boards left?
Hi,
I wanna build a F3. Any PCB boards left that I can buy?
Thanks,
Bong
Hi,
I wanna build a F3. Any PCB boards left that I can buy?
Thanks,
Bong
See a couple of replies on how to adjust P2 but I'ts still not clear to me. Can someone tell me a value and where to measure it? Poking the dmm probe around while turning P2 hasn't got me anywhere. Thanks
P1 and P2 adjust
Hello
Can anybody tell me how to adjust P1 and P2 in F3 please?
I hope I can make it works this evening.
Thank you very much
Hello
Can anybody tell me how to adjust P1 and P2 in F3 please?
I hope I can make it works this evening.
Thank you very much
I'm a little late to the game as always, but I too am interested in if there are any F3 PCB's around up for grabs. For that matter if there are not are there any Zen v9's? Lastly and of course any LU1014's?
Thanks much in advance!!

Thanks much in advance!!
Sorry to bump this, but a quick question about the AC current gain.
I've managed to confuse myself by looking at the ZV2 and ZV9 articles while tired (as well as this thread http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=107958), so I'd like someone to make it all better.
Now, the AC gain is altered by varying R19 (in the ZV9). The article states that as it currently appears, the gain is set to 50%. However, using the formula in the afore mentioned link, to have an AC gain of 50%, R19 needs to be of the same value as R13 (which is the way the equivalent resistors are setup in ZV2).
So ... on the F3 board, if I go by the ZV9 article, I can adjust P2 so that it plus, R18 is about 3x the value of R14, OR, I can omit P2, and have R14 and R18 be equal (ala ZV2).
What do I do ? I'm kinda at my wits end 🙂
(actually, going by the formula, i get an A value of 1.66 for the ZV9, which sounds like a 66% gain, not 50% ....)
(but then, if I put equivalent R values in the formula (so that B = 1), I get a = 0.5, which sounds like attenuation ...)
(and then I get unity gain if B=0.5, so one resistor is twice the value of the other ...)
AAAAAAARRRGH !!!
(sorry if this is all over the place, kinda doing two things at once atm ...)
I've managed to confuse myself by looking at the ZV2 and ZV9 articles while tired (as well as this thread http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=107958), so I'd like someone to make it all better.
Now, the AC gain is altered by varying R19 (in the ZV9). The article states that as it currently appears, the gain is set to 50%. However, using the formula in the afore mentioned link, to have an AC gain of 50%, R19 needs to be of the same value as R13 (which is the way the equivalent resistors are setup in ZV2).
So ... on the F3 board, if I go by the ZV9 article, I can adjust P2 so that it plus, R18 is about 3x the value of R14, OR, I can omit P2, and have R14 and R18 be equal (ala ZV2).
What do I do ? I'm kinda at my wits end 🙂
(actually, going by the formula, i get an A value of 1.66 for the ZV9, which sounds like a 66% gain, not 50% ....)
(but then, if I put equivalent R values in the formula (so that B = 1), I get a = 0.5, which sounds like attenuation ...)
(and then I get unity gain if B=0.5, so one resistor is twice the value of the other ...)
AAAAAAARRRGH !!!
(sorry if this is all over the place, kinda doing two things at once atm ...)
Quick question ...
While reviewing my board, i noticed that I'd purchased the wrong resistor value for R8 (the schematic wants 2ohms, I've got 1ohm there). This puts the overall value of R6|R7|R8 at 0.33ohms rather than 0.4 ohms. The difference is tiny, but would it have an impact overall, especially when it comes to current gain ?
While reviewing my board, i noticed that I'd purchased the wrong resistor value for R8 (the schematic wants 2ohms, I've got 1ohm there). This puts the overall value of R6|R7|R8 at 0.33ohms rather than 0.4 ohms. The difference is tiny, but would it have an impact overall, especially when it comes to current gain ?
Just try it - should be okay but might require R5 trimmer - if you're concerned about it, send me your address and I'll post a few up to you - no problems - Panasonic 3Watt (blue) I think.
What caps are you using, and what sort of power supply?
What caps are you using, and what sort of power supply?
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