Hi Guys,
Just thought i'd give you an update on how my project has gone. I decided to go with a TH design- but with a shorter L12 to avoid the severe response dive just after the passband. There is still an 8db rolloff at 100hz but with my crossover set for 85hz it seems to be going ok. For economy of materials and ease of construction the cabinet is around 65L and made out of a single piece of 2440x1220mm 18mm mdf. I am not adverse to complex woodworking builds but I am currently living in Laos and don't have access to a lot of tools so this did play into my consideration when choosing a design.
Thinks Sine143 for your input and suggestion of a FLH, but it was just going to be a lot more complex making a cab with an airtight driver access panel (my language skills are not great here and even getting basic materials takes 5 times as long as it normally does in Australia.
Have had a weekend dialing it in and having a listen. It is night and day compared to the old ported reflex cabinet. Deep, clean. I can also give it more power from the plate amp as there is no port chuff detracting from the quality of the output. In the corner of the room it confidently plays down to 32hz which was a surprise when I started playing test tones through it.
It starts to run away from the floorstanders when given close to the RMS handling of the driver (they are only) powered by a small 35w p/c NAD3020b amplifier.
A really rewarding project and great results for the expense of it all (about $40 in materials). It has given me an excuse to knuckle down and wrap my head around Horn Resp and Sketch up and has inspired me for a few future projects. It is a big ugly MDF box at the moment but due to WAF will probably pretty it up somehow so that it has a permanent spot in the living room.
Thanks for all your contributions to the thread- it has really helped me get a better grip of the material!
Just thought i'd give you an update on how my project has gone. I decided to go with a TH design- but with a shorter L12 to avoid the severe response dive just after the passband. There is still an 8db rolloff at 100hz but with my crossover set for 85hz it seems to be going ok. For economy of materials and ease of construction the cabinet is around 65L and made out of a single piece of 2440x1220mm 18mm mdf. I am not adverse to complex woodworking builds but I am currently living in Laos and don't have access to a lot of tools so this did play into my consideration when choosing a design.
Thinks Sine143 for your input and suggestion of a FLH, but it was just going to be a lot more complex making a cab with an airtight driver access panel (my language skills are not great here and even getting basic materials takes 5 times as long as it normally does in Australia.
Have had a weekend dialing it in and having a listen. It is night and day compared to the old ported reflex cabinet. Deep, clean. I can also give it more power from the plate amp as there is no port chuff detracting from the quality of the output. In the corner of the room it confidently plays down to 32hz which was a surprise when I started playing test tones through it.
It starts to run away from the floorstanders when given close to the RMS handling of the driver (they are only) powered by a small 35w p/c NAD3020b amplifier.
A really rewarding project and great results for the expense of it all (about $40 in materials). It has given me an excuse to knuckle down and wrap my head around Horn Resp and Sketch up and has inspired me for a few future projects. It is a big ugly MDF box at the moment but due to WAF will probably pretty it up somehow so that it has a permanent spot in the living room.
Thanks for all your contributions to the thread- it has really helped me get a better grip of the material!
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Congrats on your build.
Just for future reference, all joints need to be sealed airtight, even in the cab you just built. It's essential. So a flh like the one I posted wouldn't be any harder than what you built.
Construction adhesive is available everywhere and it's a quick and easy way to ensure an airtight seal. If they build stuff where you are they have construction adhesive. It comes in tubes and is available in different brands and goes by different names - Liquid Nails, Pl Premium, etc. It's all construction adhesive.
Normally I would have used an expanding polyurethane adhesive like the Locktite PL to ensure the airtight nature of the cab- unfortunately it looks as though I was only going to be able to get that across the border in Thailand in about a months time- and I had itchy feet and wanted to get moving. I ended up using a regular Latex woodworking adhesive and was very generous with the coverage. All panels, braces etc were glued and screwed (about every 8cm), and before i installed the 2nd side I went along and painted glue into all the joins where faces met. I have done a few checks for leaks and it all appears air tight. I will be vigilant for any leaks if they develop over time.
Next project includes some time modelling a 3 way 60x90 synergy horn using BMS4550, 4x Pyle PDMR5 and 2x10 woofs (unsure of brand/model atm).
I have made a 2 way synergy using the BMS and Pyle drivers in the past and know they play well together. Those horns play down to 270hz- so i guess i'm looking to have the 10s cover from about 80-300hz
Next project includes some time modelling a 3 way 60x90 synergy horn using BMS4550, 4x Pyle PDMR5 and 2x10 woofs (unsure of brand/model atm).
I have made a 2 way synergy using the BMS and Pyle drivers in the past and know they play well together. Those horns play down to 270hz- so i guess i'm looking to have the 10s cover from about 80-300hz
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