Hi there
I have purchased several Chipamp PCBs and plan to experiment with a different selection of components to the ones Brian supplies with his kits.
I really like sound of my current Chipamp dual mono but I find some of the higher frequency range can occasionally sound harsh.
Can anyone suggest a nice selection capacitors-boutique resistors they have found work well together?
The amps will be powered by either Pedja’s discrete power supply or an LM338 regulated supply.
Thanks for your help
Richard
I have purchased several Chipamp PCBs and plan to experiment with a different selection of components to the ones Brian supplies with his kits.
I really like sound of my current Chipamp dual mono but I find some of the higher frequency range can occasionally sound harsh.
Can anyone suggest a nice selection capacitors-boutique resistors they have found work well together?
The amps will be powered by either Pedja’s discrete power supply or an LM338 regulated supply.
Thanks for your help
Richard
I've got the best ones available anywhere and at a very reasonable price (now that I've had a conscience bypass)! 😀
Try carbon film or carbon composition resistors, and make sure that your heat-sinks are not too flimsy. 😉
Try carbon film or carbon composition resistors, and make sure that your heat-sinks are not too flimsy. 😉
I haven't tried different capacitors but I really like the sound of my chipamp.com monoblocks and so don't feel the urge to experiment.
I used Panasonic TS caps in the PSU, Panasonic FC's for all other electrolytics and Vishay-Roederstein MKP1837's for all the 0.1uF caps. Some people rave about the MKP1837's...
I've also read (can't recall where) that caps in a chip amp have a larger infuence on the sonic end result than resistors.
How about using carbon film instead of metal film resistors? Some think carbon = less harshness.
I used Panasonic TS caps in the PSU, Panasonic FC's for all other electrolytics and Vishay-Roederstein MKP1837's for all the 0.1uF caps. Some people rave about the MKP1837's...
I've also read (can't recall where) that caps in a chip amp have a larger infuence on the sonic end result than resistors.
How about using carbon film instead of metal film resistors? Some think carbon = less harshness.
Re: Re: Experimenting with Chipamp.com Mono PCBs
I thought I already had? 😉
Why don't you upload your other avatar, I wont be offended!
🙂
Puffin said:
I thought I already had? 😉
Why don't you upload your other avatar, I wont be offended!
🙂
I've been trying to decide which P2P to go for over the last couple of days, after having a chat with Barry I have decided to buy 4 Chipamp PCBs from Mad about Sound. Its going to provide a robust platform for experimentation....well at least the components are less likely to fall off!!
Nick, it sounds like you love your 4 channel amp. Do you think it worth trying out with these boards?
Richard
Nick, it sounds like you love your 4 channel amp. Do you think it worth trying out with these boards?
Richard
Tripmaster said:
Try different bypass caps or better no bypass caps 😀
Swap FCs with FMs or better with some audio caps (Muse, Silmic, etc.)
I've had a similar experience:
PS decoupling caps in Gainclone
I'm still waiting to try again FMs after removing the MMK bypass but I'm confident that this time they'll sound better.
Or perhaps I hope so, since I've to use them in my MyRef (not enough space for Silmics or Muses...) 😉
I've used the following:
Resistors (Rf/Ri):
Carbon film
Carbon comp
Metal film (garden variety)
Holco
PRP
Capacitors (Ci):
None
Panasonic FC
Panasonic FM
Black Gate HiQ NX
Nichicon KZ
Elna Silmic RFS
The combo that works best for me (and it will be different for you) is Black Gate for Ci, PRP at Rf, Holco at Ri. I don't use input caps, and ensure my sources have low offset. I can achieve <20mV offset, mostly 4-5mV this way. I also don't use a Zobel but depend on layout and short signal and feedback path. The feedback resistor is soldered directly on the pins, and in most cases components do not extend beyond their own lengths. I haven't (yet) killed a speaker this way or faced any overheating or oscillation - so I'm assuming I'm doing OK.
I tried omitting Ci many times but the compromises in the rest of the circuit to derive low offset was killing the sound or the source. In the end I decided for the Black Gates. The Muse KZ does not sound as good here as in series application, the Pana FC is acceptable in a pinch though it hardens the sound a bit. The BG Nx gives a nice warm tone to the sound. I wire my amps P2P, and in such a way that it is quick and painless to experiment with the Ci cap, which I think has profound effect on the sound quality. When I started on chipamps three years ago I thought it didn't matter, but it does.
The Rf resistor is also pretty important - the garden variety metal film resistors in India make the sound very brittle and grainy. Carbon comps are slightly better, but carbon film sound horrible. I think more than the intrinsic nature of the material, the resistor construction and material quality is subpar as carbon resistors cost much less than metal films. Wirewounds sound excellent, but they are physically too large for Rf.
Supply decoupling is also pretty critical. I use Panasonic FM 100uF mounted on the chip leads with a 100nF X7R cap soldered directly across the chip pins. Pretty radical difference from the small leaded caps I was using earlier. I am pretty happy with the combo I use now, even if it cost me a pretty packet.
Resistors (Rf/Ri):
Carbon film
Carbon comp
Metal film (garden variety)
Holco
PRP
Capacitors (Ci):
None
Panasonic FC
Panasonic FM
Black Gate HiQ NX
Nichicon KZ
Elna Silmic RFS
The combo that works best for me (and it will be different for you) is Black Gate for Ci, PRP at Rf, Holco at Ri. I don't use input caps, and ensure my sources have low offset. I can achieve <20mV offset, mostly 4-5mV this way. I also don't use a Zobel but depend on layout and short signal and feedback path. The feedback resistor is soldered directly on the pins, and in most cases components do not extend beyond their own lengths. I haven't (yet) killed a speaker this way or faced any overheating or oscillation - so I'm assuming I'm doing OK.
I tried omitting Ci many times but the compromises in the rest of the circuit to derive low offset was killing the sound or the source. In the end I decided for the Black Gates. The Muse KZ does not sound as good here as in series application, the Pana FC is acceptable in a pinch though it hardens the sound a bit. The BG Nx gives a nice warm tone to the sound. I wire my amps P2P, and in such a way that it is quick and painless to experiment with the Ci cap, which I think has profound effect on the sound quality. When I started on chipamps three years ago I thought it didn't matter, but it does.
The Rf resistor is also pretty important - the garden variety metal film resistors in India make the sound very brittle and grainy. Carbon comps are slightly better, but carbon film sound horrible. I think more than the intrinsic nature of the material, the resistor construction and material quality is subpar as carbon resistors cost much less than metal films. Wirewounds sound excellent, but they are physically too large for Rf.
Supply decoupling is also pretty critical. I use Panasonic FM 100uF mounted on the chip leads with a 100nF X7R cap soldered directly across the chip pins. Pretty radical difference from the small leaded caps I was using earlier. I am pretty happy with the combo I use now, even if it cost me a pretty packet.
Tripmaster said:
P2P is construction without using a PCB!
4 channel amp with either P2P or PCB makes no difference!
Don't get so hung up on the tiniest details! The best GC is the one that Frank Sinatra would have sung about if he had built one! 😉
Nuuk said:
P2P is construction without using a PCB!
4 channel amp with either P2P or PCB makes no difference!
Don't get so hung up on the tiniest details! The best GC is the one that Frank Sinatra would have sung about if he had built one! 😉
Hi Nick
I know what a P2P is but I should have made myself clearer. I decided to go down the PCB route because I thought the board would withstand several component changes, and also provide a stable platform for the parts.
I am not toooo obsessed with different parts but if there is an assortment of components that may help to tame some of the high frequency distortion then that’s what I’ll try.
Richard 🙂
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