Greetings,
I have recently used a Dayton Audio exciter on a 2' x 2', 1" thick panel of firm (pink) insulation. After a few adjustments, ....to me, ...it sounded amazing clear, quick and lower notes didn't seem to affect the higher notes at all. The board handled all the frequencies, to a certain point, with ease. Tying in a cheap sub gave me a very pleasing sound.
What I want to know is if anyone has heard any difference between listening to the side opposite the exciter, or the same side. I thought the exciter side offered a slightly more clear sound with voice and horns. Has anyone experimented with a 2' x 4' size board, ..or a 4' x 8' size or any other material?
I've seen all the vids. Just need some personal input. This is not a medium for 'Loud', ...but it sure is sounding 'accurate' to me.
I have recently used a Dayton Audio exciter on a 2' x 2', 1" thick panel of firm (pink) insulation. After a few adjustments, ....to me, ...it sounded amazing clear, quick and lower notes didn't seem to affect the higher notes at all. The board handled all the frequencies, to a certain point, with ease. Tying in a cheap sub gave me a very pleasing sound.
What I want to know is if anyone has heard any difference between listening to the side opposite the exciter, or the same side. I thought the exciter side offered a slightly more clear sound with voice and horns. Has anyone experimented with a 2' x 4' size board, ..or a 4' x 8' size or any other material?
I've seen all the vids. Just need some personal input. This is not a medium for 'Loud', ...but it sure is sounding 'accurate' to me.
Place the exciter 2/5 from eiter edge of the panel (offcenter).
Then take another exciter and place it dead center.
The various frequency responces from each panels will give a sum that has a straighter frequency responce.
Then take another exciter and place it dead center.
The various frequency responces from each panels will give a sum that has a straighter frequency responce.
The exciters in our home speak via expanded polystyrene foam plastic, the white lids off of inexpensive, white foam coolers.
Rather than rely on the stock sticky-tape, I scraped the tape off of the plastic coil formers with my fingernail and used 5-min. epoxy to bond the exciters to their foam soundboards.
In turn, rather than bonding the exciters directly to the foam, they're glued to a patch of thin aluminium can which is in turn bonded to the foam.
-I've built many composite toys that I have trusted my life to, so, I have a lot of experience with composite construction.-
They sound excellent.
Fast, crisp, honest sound reproduction which is similar to electrostatics!
I like these better than my Manzanita open baffles. The Manzanitas round-off the
edges of the sound, smoothing things artificially and they sound unconvincing in comparison
with the exciter-powered foam lids.
Of course, without subwoofer support, the sound is thin and unconvincing.
Rather than rely on the stock sticky-tape, I scraped the tape off of the plastic coil formers with my fingernail and used 5-min. epoxy to bond the exciters to their foam soundboards.
In turn, rather than bonding the exciters directly to the foam, they're glued to a patch of thin aluminium can which is in turn bonded to the foam.
-I've built many composite toys that I have trusted my life to, so, I have a lot of experience with composite construction.-
They sound excellent.
Fast, crisp, honest sound reproduction which is similar to electrostatics!
I like these better than my Manzanita open baffles. The Manzanitas round-off the
edges of the sound, smoothing things artificially and they sound unconvincing in comparison
with the exciter-powered foam lids.
Of course, without subwoofer support, the sound is thin and unconvincing.
Amount of difference will depend on the type of exciter.....exciters with vents in the back will sound a bit clearer because the sound from the exciter radiates through the vents in a more focused direction....those without vents the difference is very slight....IMO its not worth using the side with the exciter on especially when further developing ones design as it would hinder development if using a spline, as the spline would be in the back of the exciter to support and hold the magnet in place.
Good info. Thx.
I'd love to know how a 2' x 4' piece of ridged foam works. With a little juggling, I could incorporate pieces that size into my living room without it looking dumb. Wondering what anyone else used?
I'd love to know how a 2' x 4' piece of ridged foam works. With a little juggling, I could incorporate pieces that size into my living room without it looking dumb. Wondering what anyone else used?
That is XPS...Extruded Polystyrene basically the same thing as your pink panels but there are various sizes, thicknesses and densities.
XPS is a bit more homogenous, and therefore, better at even performance with transmission of an audio signal. Yes, I think EPS comes in more thicknesses and sizes.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-C...oam-Board-Insulation-Sheathing-20WE/207179253
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Project...Foam-Board-Insulation-Sheathing-PP1/203553730
Both panels are XPS Extruded Polystyrene and NOT EPS Expanded polystyrene which is usually white in color.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Project...Foam-Board-Insulation-Sheathing-PP1/203553730
Both panels are XPS Extruded Polystyrene and NOT EPS Expanded polystyrene which is usually white in color.
Thanks, DMLBES.
I'm trying to stay away from anything that leaves fibres in the air, or off-gasses. The exciter I used was Dayton Audio's DAEX25QLP-4 ohm-10 watt. The texture of a cello and the purity of a horn or sax...is just phenomenal...IMHO. Norah Jones, Krall, and Gladys Knight sound like they are 15 feet away.
Sure am having fun with this.
I'm trying to stay away from anything that leaves fibres in the air, or off-gasses. The exciter I used was Dayton Audio's DAEX25QLP-4 ohm-10 watt. The texture of a cello and the purity of a horn or sax...is just phenomenal...IMHO. Norah Jones, Krall, and Gladys Knight sound like they are 15 feet away.
Sure am having fun with this.
I don't like the legs that come with certain exciters, I simply cut them off as the legs hinder vibrations of the panel.
Do anyone know what the DMLs in the pictures are? I just bought them from a auction site. The sales description for them was ”4-way planar speaker, wall or roof mount”.
What are they? Seems to be no xo just mecanical suspension inbetween the radiating areas á la Altec widebander but in DML flat panel confoguration. The panels most likely are EPS and the tweeter is a regular metal dust cap.
What are they? Seems to be no xo just mecanical suspension inbetween the radiating areas á la Altec widebander but in DML flat panel confoguration. The panels most likely are EPS and the tweeter is a regular metal dust cap.
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They are new in box! Text on boxes say they are 37cm x 30cm
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They are DML panels....I have not seen these type of panels before but it looks like there is only (1) transducer on the back unless the others are hidden....this is not a true 4 way with 4 separate transducers. With DML panels the designs are endless and I can see the reason the designer is calling them 4 ways even though they are not true 4 ways.
This design uses a single transducer but uses the panel materials itself to divide the 4 different frequencies.....The silver metallic (cap) piece in the middle acts as a super tweeter as to produce high frequencies it needs to be very small but have a very stiff metallic like hardness.
Then the EPS itself will produce the highs in the most inner circle followed by the midrange in the outer circles and the bass at the end or edges of the panel....He also used circular grooves with some type of glue or silicone to dampen and separate the four different frequencies.
The designer also used the EPS as a frame/spline to hold the magnet in place as one whole unit...This designer knew what he was doing as Germans are advanced in technology and ingenious with design.
This design/concept is sort of similar to my own when utilizing a single transducer on each panel.
This design uses a single transducer but uses the panel materials itself to divide the 4 different frequencies.....The silver metallic (cap) piece in the middle acts as a super tweeter as to produce high frequencies it needs to be very small but have a very stiff metallic like hardness.
Then the EPS itself will produce the highs in the most inner circle followed by the midrange in the outer circles and the bass at the end or edges of the panel....He also used circular grooves with some type of glue or silicone to dampen and separate the four different frequencies.
The designer also used the EPS as a frame/spline to hold the magnet in place as one whole unit...This designer knew what he was doing as Germans are advanced in technology and ingenious with design.
This design/concept is sort of similar to my own when utilizing a single transducer on each panel.
I hooked up the DML panels i bought. All I can say is theese panels are crap, distortion is brett bad on theese.
I tried them in various possitions. Nothing that I tried lade any difference.
I parallelled them with my main speakers, Stage Accompany PS44. On very low levels before the DMLs start to destort there was some magic there. This was enough to peak my interest to plan on making my own DMLs.
What 8ohm exciter is the one I should buy? Bred the DMLs to be fairly widerange.
I tried them in various possitions. Nothing that I tried lade any difference.
I parallelled them with my main speakers, Stage Accompany PS44. On very low levels before the DMLs start to destort there was some magic there. This was enough to peak my interest to plan on making my own DMLs.
What 8ohm exciter is the one I should buy? Bred the DMLs to be fairly widerange.
I see your problem with the distortion....Those panels were made to be mounted in wall or in ceilings....The walls and or ceilings act as a frame to reduce the vibrations.....What you need to do is build a wooden frame around your panels using weather strip foam to attach the panels to the wooden frame.....I would also use a spline on the frame to support the magnet to reduce distortions.
Not many 8ohm exciters to choose from but the one I would buy is the T.E. Frog exciter> Tectonic TEAX25C10-8/SP 25mm High Power 8 Ohm Frog Exciter
If you are willing to use 4ohm exciter then the DaytonDAEX25SHF-4 is the best.
If you do buy the frog exciter, you need to cut off the 4 legs because it hinders vibrations.
Thank you DMLBES for the pointers. I think I’ll ditch the DMLs I just bought anyways, the dustcap tweeter is way to anoying. Making a frame would probably take care of some of the problems with thees panels and makes alot of sence. The frame wibrates like crazy.
I want to run my 8ohm 2-way monitors and the DML in parallell since my amp seem to like a 4ohm load. But if the Dayton 4ohm exciter is that much better I’ll go for that one any ways.
I will read up some more about DMLs, exciters, sheet material and how to apply Layered sound principles correctly.
Appriciate alot the help you give me and steering me in the right direction
I want to run my 8ohm 2-way monitors and the DML in parallell since my amp seem to like a 4ohm load. But if the Dayton 4ohm exciter is that much better I’ll go for that one any ways.
I will read up some more about DMLs, exciters, sheet material and how to apply Layered sound principles correctly.
Appriciate alot the help you give me and steering me in the right direction
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