everyones audio setup?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Jump to Latest
#9
pioneer deck - the cheapest one
factory cabin speakers
kenWood 300 watts max rms 2 channel amp - Bridged
2 pioneer 150 rms 4ohm subs the cheapest of the cheap
1 JL Audio 12W0 125 rms 8ohm
subs in a custom bandpass enclosure 9.88 ft3 tuned to 35hz
sounds really good considering the cheap components and everything is at least five years old -except the hu which is only a year young
 
#10
In my 98 Grand Cherokee I'm running:

1) Pioneer DEH-P8600MP deck. I've always liked Pioneer for car audio purposes.

2) Four Infinity 63.5i speakers (door mounted unfortunately) powered by the deck with a -12dB/octave cutoff at 160Hz. You could get away with two only and properly mount them using Q-Logic kick panel enclosures (my next spring project). They'll handle much more than the Pioneer deck can put out but see the following SPL measurement!

3) Two Infinity Basslinks mounted vertically right behind the back beach seat firing towards the rear hatchback of the vehicle with one switched to 180 phase (as I wanted them to be mounted "symmetrically" looking) and they're using the deck's -18dB/octave cutoff at 80Hz. The long path the bass travels has seemed to improve very low bass response.

Why such a difference in cutoff frequencies (80Hz and 160Hz)??? If I went closer together, it sounded much too boomy and loud at those frequencies so that was the separation I needed to get a satisfying flat response believe it or not.

The sound is more accurate and tighter than anything else I've heard (in a vehicle that is) and according to the SPL meter, it does more than 126dBspl (as that's the meter's maximum) without any noticeable distortion. So, that's good enough for me. And, yes, I can actually feel the bass. There have been kick drums that made me think I got rear-ended and made me check my rear-view mirror. Also good is that the GC's construction is so darn thick that not much sound escapes the vehicle's interior to bother others around me, heh.
 
#11
Hi!

In my ´95 BMW 525 Touring i have the next installed:

HU: Pioneer ODR RS-K1 cassette deck and RS-M1 CD-changer

Processors: ODR RS-P1 and RS-P50

Amps: DLS A4 (4 x 50 W) and DLS A6 (1 x 500 W) The A4 is for the front end and the A6 for the subwoofer... 😉

Main speakers: DLS Iridium 6 midbass/midrange in kickpanels, DLS Iridium 1 in custom built aluminium housings on the dashboard. All speakers in the front are very much custom angled for best imaging.

Subwoofer: DLS Iridium 10" in custum made ported box approximately 28 liters (1 cubicfoot?)

Speaker- and powerwiring DLS...

As You can see, most of the products are DLS. That is because this car was competing in EMMA Finland competitions last summer. Actually came in second in the FInnish finals in category Pro Sound Only...

And yes, it´s all DIY 😉

-HT-
 
#12
Hey all!
This is what's in my '97 Chrysler Sebring:

Alpine DVA-7996 DVD player w/external Sirius sat tuner(Stern!)
MB Quart PCE 216 6 1/2" components in the doors
MB Quart QTD 25 tweeters in the door A/C vents
2X MB Quart PWE352 15" DVC subs
McIntosh MC420 amp- 50WRMS x 4@4ohm
2X Precision Power PC1800.2 amps- 800WRMS x 1@2ohm
2X Optima redtops
1 Farad cap

The McIntosh run the Speakers in the doors, each sub gets a PPI.
Each 6" has its own small sealed enclosure in the doors. Each sub gets 2 ft3 sealed airspace. The car was made with flipdown rear seats which allowed interior access to the trunk through a large opening. The sub box now occupies this opening and the subs fire foward. Flip the rear seats up to hide the subs. One Optima redtop is up front like stock, the other redtop is in the trunk near the amps and cap. The 2 batteries are wired in parallel along with the cap. Unfortunantly, I bought subs back when I only had a single PPI, so I bought them with voice coils that would wire up to a 2ohm load which would draw the full 800 watts from the amp. Now with 2 PPI's the subs can only be wired for a 4ohm load on each amp. Power gained with second PPI? Nada. Each sub has 2 2ohm VC's. Does anyone know if it would be OK to use only one VC(2ohm) from each sub and leave the other unconnected to get max power from the PPI's? BTW, they won't drive 1ohm without risk of damage.

- Thanks-
 

Attachments

  • dsc00009a.jpg
    dsc00009a.jpg
    97.4 KB · Views: 516
#14
nine76chris said:
Does anyone know if it would be OK to use only one VC(2ohm) from each sub and leave the other unconnected to get max power from the PPI's? BTW, they won't drive 1ohm without risk of damage.

- Thanks-
Click to expand...

You could, but efficiency will drop by either 3 or 6 dB (forgot which) and thermal power handling will be cut in half (not quite in half, but almost). That means that if your sub can handle 600 rms thermally and you only need 200 rms to reach the output you want, by only powering one coil the sub could handle 300 rms thermally and you would need either 400 or 800 rms to reach the output you want, not a good idea.
 
#16
I'm driving a nissan terrano (pathfinder in some parts of the world)

headunit: pioneer DEH 2650

EQ's : modified crossfire CFQ5x and a diy'ed dual mono 10 band EQ

crosover: P09 from ESP (4th order version set at 100Hz)

amps : P03A from ESP ( +/-35V rails) and amp2 (+/-47V rails) T-amp from 41Hz.com

fronts: MB Quart DSD216 6.5" separates

rears : aura 5.25 coaxes

bass: two JBL LC-S1250W subs in 1.15cu ft sealed boxes.

wiring: power wiring and fuse holders by stinger. the rest are generic brands....


I have entered a show last october and my setup clocked 132db in the SPL category (I topped my category). not too impressive but keep in mind I'm using entry level subs which cost me $89 for the two new drivers and are in sealed boxes. all of the other competitors are using ported boxes.

at full blast, my ride can be heard a block or two away. it has happened to me in more than one occasion that the gates at my house were already opened since the people there knew I was coming. 😀

I have just upgraded my custom under car "neon" which is composed of 384 pcs of size 0603 SMD LED's in a series parallel config powered by a TL494 based SMPS so it won't flicker with the bass. cost me a little over $20 in parts but took 5 hours just to populate the 16 LED board arrays.
 
#18
Yep, big inches in big cubic feet driven by big watts will get big SPL everytime. Somethings never change. What are you using to measure to 145db? I have the Radioshack one but My system pegs the needle so I have to assume my spl is somewhere over 130db. I was looking at the 6ft3 box and was wondering if it has an internal volume of 6ft3 after you subtract out the area taken up by the 2 ports? Because they look pretty big, half the box is port.
 
#19
if you used a db meter for car audio competitions, I don't know if I could trust them.
a friend measured 148db with only one 12" sub in a basic slot ported enclosure and a 400W amp in a car show, in my case, mine was measured using the handheld types and I got only 132db. while the other competitors revved their engines to get higher voltage=higher SPL, my engine was only at idle.
 
#20
Mine was on the AC (beasically what yours is only it was competition so its more accurate than a cheap Radio Shack...they cost over $500 new) wit ha basically brand new mic (had never seen over 145dB untill i got there and only 5 people had had a run at if before).

AC mics basically read feedback voltage and frequincy from the air moving the diafram, the newer the mic the stiffer the diafram the more accurate it is.

The most accurate form of measurement (wont be thrown out of calibration by lots of uses) is Term Lab USB but no one locally has one... you generally loose 1-3dB on Term Lab compared to an "accurate" AC and with an inaccurate AC yo ucan loose as much as 6.
Id probably doing around 143-144dB on Term Lab USB (maybe a little less) which im still proud of considering tuning and a 100% SQ driver that was designed for Infrabass responce in home use.

Dont get me wrong, i love my Ava...but it wasnt deisgned for SPL. Still wangs hard :smash:
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom