CBFryman said:Mine was on the AC (beasically what yours is only it was competition so its more accurate than a cheap Radio Shack...they cost over $500 new) wit ha basically brand new mic (had never seen over 145dB untill i got there and only 5 people had had a run at if before).
AC mics basically read feedback voltage and frequincy from the air moving the diafram, the newer the mic the stiffer the diafram the more accurate it is.
The most accurate form of measurement (wont be thrown out of calibration by lots of uses) is Term Lab USB but no one locally has one... you generally loose 1-3dB on Term Lab compared to an "accurate" AC and with an inaccurate AC yo ucan loose as much as 6.
Id probably doing around 143-144dB on Term Lab USB (maybe a little less) which im still proud of considering tuning and a 100% SQ driver that was designed for Infrabass responce in home use.
Dont get me wrong, i love my Ava...but it wasnt deisgned for SPL. Still wangs hard
do you have a link to the USB mic you mentioned?
my system was also designed with SQ in mind and SPL was a good side effect. 😛
People here have nice set-ups!!
H/U : Clarion DRZ-925
Frontstage : Seas G18RNX with LPG 25NFA
amps: 2 x Next 4.400, 1 x Next 2.400 and 1 zapco ref 750
Sub: None for now, probably Dayton RSS315HF 12" or Peerless XLS 12"
Deadening: RAAMmat + Ensolite (on it's way)
H/U : Clarion DRZ-925
Frontstage : Seas G18RNX with LPG 25NFA
amps: 2 x Next 4.400, 1 x Next 2.400 and 1 zapco ref 750
Sub: None for now, probably Dayton RSS315HF 12" or Peerless XLS 12"
Deadening: RAAMmat + Ensolite (on it's way)
Originally posted by nine76chris
Does anyone know if it would be OK to use only one VC(2ohm) from each sub and leave the other unconnected to get max power from the PPI's? BTW, they won't drive 1ohm without risk of damage.
- Thanks-
Technically, you CAN, but your Qes will be doubled. So, you should short the other unused coil to avoid this. You should notice improved control and greater dynamics.
Does anyone know if it would be OK to use only one VC(2ohm) from each sub and leave the other unconnected to get max power from the PPI's? BTW, they won't drive 1ohm without risk of damage.
- Thanks-
Technically, you CAN, but your Qes will be doubled. So, you should short the other unused coil to avoid this. You should notice improved control and greater dynamics.
No pictures currently, but my set up consists of old school a/d/s px335 components, which is by far the finest system I have owned in 30+ years. These components are biamped with modified Linear Power 992IQs. My sub system is two 10" Audio Concepts(also old school) in sealed boxes, amplified by a pair of modified Linear Power 1502IQs. I have rear fill provided by Audax 6 1/2s and a stock Linear Power 652IQ. For the first time ever, I feel no need to upgrade anything. I've reached a level of satisfaction with this system that makes me think I couldn't be happier with a mobile set up.
The last respectable system I has was in my '89 Jetta (89-91).
Alpine 7909 - the first in west Michigan.
Alpine 7390 - swap with 7909.
Alpine 5952S
ADS 642CSi
ADS PH15
PPI 2300M
Nakamichi SP15 / SP50 - front, biamped
Nakamichi SP15 / SP50 / PC100 - rear
Nakamichi SP1010 (2)
Alpine 8080
Alpine 9542/9545
Dual Battery
If you know what all that is you are as old as the hills. For everyone else it's "old school".
I still have everything (except the ADS stuff). Like new condition in original boxes. Don't drive much anymore so there is little motivation to take the time to install it all. My interests shifted to home theatre in the early 90's. My current HT system has 32 subs driven by two 1.6KW amps 🙂
Alpine 7909 - the first in west Michigan.
Alpine 7390 - swap with 7909.
Alpine 5952S
ADS 642CSi
ADS PH15
PPI 2300M
Nakamichi SP15 / SP50 - front, biamped
Nakamichi SP15 / SP50 / PC100 - rear
Nakamichi SP1010 (2)
Alpine 8080
Alpine 9542/9545
Dual Battery
If you know what all that is you are as old as the hills. For everyone else it's "old school".
I still have everything (except the ADS stuff). Like new condition in original boxes. Don't drive much anymore so there is little motivation to take the time to install it all. My interests shifted to home theatre in the early 90's. My current HT system has 32 subs driven by two 1.6KW amps 🙂
sorry i know this isnt relevant to this post, but i was wondering if (long shot) u still had the sp-50s available or know where i could get some oPossum, i was tryin to email you, but i have not got access to that feature yet
-Kenwood kdcx890
-Precision power art 600.2 (600 watts rms for mids/tweets)
(Getting another soon so each pair of components can have its own amp)
-Two pairs of polk db6501 components
-Earthquake Phd2 (2k watts rms)
-Two MTX Mxs 1204 subwoofers in a sealed box
I'll be getting rid of the 12's and buying some shallow 8's and building enclosures in the passenger rear side panels. Haven't decided on ported or sealed. I also haven't decided on running the earthquake on the 8's or using the ppi pro mos 50.
-Precision power art 600.2 (600 watts rms for mids/tweets)
(Getting another soon so each pair of components can have its own amp)
-Two pairs of polk db6501 components
-Earthquake Phd2 (2k watts rms)
-Two MTX Mxs 1204 subwoofers in a sealed box
I'll be getting rid of the 12's and buying some shallow 8's and building enclosures in the passenger rear side panels. Haven't decided on ported or sealed. I also haven't decided on running the earthquake on the 8's or using the ppi pro mos 50.
Right now in the car i have:
Rockford rfx 8140
bluewave eq8
sub setup
1 x orion 2150sx
2 x boshmann zd-12xal
mid/hi setup
1 x orion 225 hcca
2 x Jbl 508 GTi
2 X unbranded 1" textile dome dish tweeters
-----------------------------------------------------------------
new setup once i get off my butt and do it will be:
3 x orion 2150sx
6 x boschmann zd-12xal subs (12's)
or
3 X boschmann zd-12xal subs, recoiled to dvc 2 ohm.
2 x orion 225hcca (rewound to 36 volt rails, eventually)
2 x 5.25" JBL 508GTi
2 x Eminence 8" mids (yes a mid)
2 x RCF 2" textile dome stage tweeters
2 x unbranded 1" textile dome dish tweeters
subs are great for the price, but have to have a new spider installed, the original spider has the tinsels woven into the spider.
the tinsels tear where the epoxy meets the voice coil, the tinsel goes right through this joint and tears,
right now im experimenting with different voice coil and spider configurations with the subs, before i put the rest in.
Rockford rfx 8140
bluewave eq8
sub setup
1 x orion 2150sx
2 x boshmann zd-12xal
mid/hi setup
1 x orion 225 hcca
2 x Jbl 508 GTi
2 X unbranded 1" textile dome dish tweeters
-----------------------------------------------------------------
new setup once i get off my butt and do it will be:
3 x orion 2150sx
6 x boschmann zd-12xal subs (12's)
or
3 X boschmann zd-12xal subs, recoiled to dvc 2 ohm.
2 x orion 225hcca (rewound to 36 volt rails, eventually)
2 x 5.25" JBL 508GTi
2 x Eminence 8" mids (yes a mid)
2 x RCF 2" textile dome stage tweeters
2 x unbranded 1" textile dome dish tweeters
subs are great for the price, but have to have a new spider installed, the original spider has the tinsels woven into the spider.
the tinsels tear where the epoxy meets the voice coil, the tinsel goes right through this joint and tears,
right now im experimenting with different voice coil and spider configurations with the subs, before i put the rest in.
Current setup
Hi all,
My setup is:
Sony CDX-C880 head
Sony XDP-210EQ processor
Sony T-65 CD Changer
Sony MD changer
Sony C30 multi disk controller
JL Audio 300/2 amp (front speakers)
JL Audio 500/1 amp (sub)
Dynaudio 220 front set
JL Audio CS112RG-W3v3 enclosed sub
Very nice indeed.
smiles,
Jamie
Hi all,
My setup is:
Sony CDX-C880 head
Sony XDP-210EQ processor
Sony T-65 CD Changer
Sony MD changer
Sony C30 multi disk controller
JL Audio 300/2 amp (front speakers)
JL Audio 500/1 amp (sub)
Dynaudio 220 front set
JL Audio CS112RG-W3v3 enclosed sub
Very nice indeed.
smiles,
Jamie
Subs and box to change this week 😀
Headunit: Kenwood KDC-MP4028
CD Changer: Kenwood 6 disc (Don't remember the model)
Tweeters: Stock tweeters that came with the 2003 Civic
Front Speakers: Kenwood 6 1/2's (Don't remember the model)
Rear Speakers: Kicker 3 way 6X9 speakers
Amplifier: Just replaced a old school PPI Sedona 50ix with a Alpine MRP-M450 to get set for my next set of subs.
Subs: 2 Rockford Punch 8ohm 12" Stage 1 subs (wired in parallel for a 4ohm load) that I bought from Crutchfield in a ported box.
Just got a new sealed box today and will be getting 2 JL Audio 12" 12W1v2 4ohm subwoofers to replace the other subs and I will be trying to sell those 2 12's on Ebay without the box to get something for them. Will wire them in parallel to get a 2ohm load and have the Alpine pushing 400watts RMS into them. The box is 1.4 cu foot and the speaker page says you need 1.25 cu foot so the guy at the audio place told me to put some poly-fil in it and I should be fine. Can't wait to hear those babies pound!!
Headunit: Kenwood KDC-MP4028
CD Changer: Kenwood 6 disc (Don't remember the model)
Tweeters: Stock tweeters that came with the 2003 Civic
Front Speakers: Kenwood 6 1/2's (Don't remember the model)
Rear Speakers: Kicker 3 way 6X9 speakers
Amplifier: Just replaced a old school PPI Sedona 50ix with a Alpine MRP-M450 to get set for my next set of subs.
Subs: 2 Rockford Punch 8ohm 12" Stage 1 subs (wired in parallel for a 4ohm load) that I bought from Crutchfield in a ported box.
Just got a new sealed box today and will be getting 2 JL Audio 12" 12W1v2 4ohm subwoofers to replace the other subs and I will be trying to sell those 2 12's on Ebay without the box to get something for them. Will wire them in parallel to get a 2ohm load and have the Alpine pushing 400watts RMS into them. The box is 1.4 cu foot and the speaker page says you need 1.25 cu foot so the guy at the audio place told me to put some poly-fil in it and I should be fine. Can't wait to hear those babies pound!!
My final updated setup 😎
Headunit: Kenwood KDC-X891
Tweeters: Stock tweeters that came with the 2003 Civic
Front Speakers: Kenwood 6 1/2's (Don't remember the model)
Rear Speakers: Kicker 3 way 6X9 speakers
Sub Amplifier: Rockford P300-1
Highs Amplifier: Alpine MRP-F240
Subs: 2 JL Audio 12" 12W1v2 4ohm wired in parallel for a 2ohm load in a 1.27cu ft sealed enclosure
Rockford Fosgate 1 Farad Capacitor
Headunit: Kenwood KDC-X891
Tweeters: Stock tweeters that came with the 2003 Civic
Front Speakers: Kenwood 6 1/2's (Don't remember the model)
Rear Speakers: Kicker 3 way 6X9 speakers
Sub Amplifier: Rockford P300-1
Highs Amplifier: Alpine MRP-F240
Subs: 2 JL Audio 12" 12W1v2 4ohm wired in parallel for a 2ohm load in a 1.27cu ft sealed enclosure
Rockford Fosgate 1 Farad Capacitor
2000 chevy silverado standard cab
alpine cda9853
2 infinity kappa 124.7W subs in 1 cube ft sealed box each
infinity reference 1600A mono amp
infinity reference 7541A amp
infinity kappa 60.7cs with tweeters in the A pillars firing at the windshield
infinity 4x6 plates in the B pillars can't remember the model #
alpine cda9853
2 infinity kappa 124.7W subs in 1 cube ft sealed box each
infinity reference 1600A mono amp
infinity reference 7541A amp
infinity kappa 60.7cs with tweeters in the A pillars firing at the windshield
infinity 4x6 plates in the B pillars can't remember the model #
I am building a stereo for my twin turbo toyota tundra.
Its a mix of old school and new items.
Head unit:
Currently using a Kenwood Excelon (cant remember what one it is but it was the best unit they offered in 2000).
I am now looking at the Eclipse CD7100 8 volt.
The front stage:
Dynaudio 240 GT set powered with (2) A/D/S/ PQ20's run 2 channels per side.
Sub drivers:
Considering a few but will likely end up with the Fi Q series 10" and will run 4. www.ficaraudio.com
Sub amps.
I own 4 kicker ZR1000's but will likely ebay them for something else. They are great amps but very power hungry and not really in the same league as the front stage components.
Was considering the American made TO3 case Tru Billet or copper series amps. I have never heard one but really like what they have on their site. http://www.trutechnology.com/products/billet/billetseries001.htm
Its a mix of old school and new items.
Head unit:
Currently using a Kenwood Excelon (cant remember what one it is but it was the best unit they offered in 2000).
I am now looking at the Eclipse CD7100 8 volt.
The front stage:
Dynaudio 240 GT set powered with (2) A/D/S/ PQ20's run 2 channels per side.
Sub drivers:
Considering a few but will likely end up with the Fi Q series 10" and will run 4. www.ficaraudio.com
Sub amps.
I own 4 kicker ZR1000's but will likely ebay them for something else. They are great amps but very power hungry and not really in the same league as the front stage components.
Was considering the American made TO3 case Tru Billet or copper series amps. I have never heard one but really like what they have on their site. http://www.trutechnology.com/products/billet/billetseries001.htm
Wow, I feel out of place! This is a daily setup so here it goes....
2001 Pontiac GTP
Pioneer Deh P9800BT
Cadence CVL (1 pair 5K, and 1 pair 6k all up front)
Kicker SX900.4 (for the above)
TC Sounds 5200 (4hp driven subwoofer, Ti cone)
IA 40.1, produces around 6K rms on 16V system (16-18.3V)
1 BatCap 8400 @ 16V, 2 HC2200 @16V, sit at 18.3V fully charged (float)
Iraggi 300A Amputator series externally regulated, max charge voltage is around 19.3V as required by the BatCap 8400
Fisher Customs enclosure with interchangeable ports (30, 35 and 40hz tune)
3 runs of 1/0ga wire.
Polo..
2001 Pontiac GTP
Pioneer Deh P9800BT
Cadence CVL (1 pair 5K, and 1 pair 6k all up front)
Kicker SX900.4 (for the above)
TC Sounds 5200 (4hp driven subwoofer, Ti cone)
IA 40.1, produces around 6K rms on 16V system (16-18.3V)
1 BatCap 8400 @ 16V, 2 HC2200 @16V, sit at 18.3V fully charged (float)
Iraggi 300A Amputator series externally regulated, max charge voltage is around 19.3V as required by the BatCap 8400
Fisher Customs enclosure with interchangeable ports (30, 35 and 40hz tune)
3 runs of 1/0ga wire.
Polo..
- Status
- Not open for further replies.