Event TR8 XL monitor loud electric click/high freq pop when switched on

Event Tr8 XL monitor loud electric click/high freq pop, when switched on, Occasional feedback. Any Advice would be great please. Thankyou

I have a audio interface that is nearly obselete with drivers on their last legs. I wondered if occasional driver digital overload, could have damaged the monitor?

As a novice. Was going to have a quick look, to see if anything obvious fuse or wire, wondered best/easiest way to also get in them. Front woofer removal or total wood front panel prise open? As back is sealed.

Thankyou very much.
Any help or advice would be appreciated 🙏
 
Maybe check your buffer settings and deal with increased latency to get rid of buffer overrun. The clock my be losing sync as well or just simply PS noise from older bad capacitors in the interface. This usually causes loud HF clicking and popping.

You'll have to get into the front panel by prying with some heat. Do yours have the front trim rings around the woofers? Should be easy to just remove the woofer, but be careful with the ring around it. They crack and break very easily and are hard to get replacements for.

The amps are usually chip based ie LM3886 or LM1875. Not very hard to work on, but the way they're put together can make things tricky.
 
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Hi . Thankyou for your reply. The monitor is now unplugged from any xlr connection and stood alone with just the power lead in, makes that same massive deafening high pitch noise, for a second, when switching on. There is noise going on if i put my ear to the woofer cone, but it has fed back on its own, recently, without any connection to anything, so assume something possibly wrong with active amp ? Or dodgy earth wire or something? (I say, without having a clue lol)

There are no switches on front, all on back.
 

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And yes, because you need to get at the amplifier asy, you'll have to pull the woofer and tweeter to get at the screws inside holding the mounting plate onto the back. You'll need a set of short screw drivers and a ratchet/philips bit. Do not touch any of the level adjustment trimpots on the pcb. They're for the crossover and set for your specific driver levels.
 
Thankyou very much for taking the time out to reply profiguy
I hadn't switched on the monitor for a while, so I thought I would try it with another audio interface of a friend, Focusrite scarlett.
The monitor doesn't seem to feed back initially and there is normal MP3 sound coming from it, wwhen I play media, which sounds pretty normal, with no feedback initially when playing.

The one thing that still happened though, is the loud crack pop (sounds like a clap of hands) when turning on the switch of the monitor (bit of an ear popper). Then after playing and stopping the MP3, monitor seemed fine.
I left the monitor silent, without any audio, and after a short while, there was a mellower pop and a high pitch screechy sound that came and went.
I unplugged the XLR in the monitor, so just plugged into the mains (kettle lead) and I found, there is a low volume kind of big crowd white noise coming from the tweeter. There is also a lower boom pop with the driver, when I switch it on.

I am not really a techy guy, but your feedback, I'm sure will help any electronics savvy person I get to have a look. I dont fancy going in myself if I dont know what I am doing.

Thankyou for your kind reply

Jay

 
It does sound alot like bad electrolytic capacitors in the power supply filter stages charging at uneven rates, causing temporary instability when the power is turned on. It may just be bad connections on the main filter caps on the amplifier supply rails. I vaguely remember many years ago working on some Event monitors with bad solder connections on the 2 large main filter capacitors. Without looking through my old notes, I'm almost certain that's what your problem is. That of course entails removing the amp plate to repair, but its probably just a matter of resoldering a bunch of connections.

Good luck. Hope you get it worked out ok.