Is acetone any good for etch resist stripping? I've searched and it seems it will strip it, but takes some doing. Am I better off just making up a strong solution of sodium hydroxide?
Acetone strps the etch resist quick and easy. Wet a piece of clothe in acetone and simply wipe off. I never use anything else, too much hassle.
Magura 🙂
Magura 🙂
Forget about the acetone.
Drill the board first then use a Scotch Brite sponge or steelwool. Then you will have a shiny copper surface and in the same time all sharp edges from the drilling removed.
Drill the board first then use a Scotch Brite sponge or steelwool. Then you will have a shiny copper surface and in the same time all sharp edges from the drilling removed.
Thanks guys, looks like acetone is the way forward. Should be cheap as well 🙂
Peranders, I did think about using very fine wet and dry paper or steel wool. Might dip steel wool in acetone and get best of both worlds 🙂
Peranders, I did think about using very fine wet and dry paper or steel wool. Might dip steel wool in acetone and get best of both worlds 🙂
I use acetone too. Does the job nicely.
Don't forget two things: use acetone in a well ventilated room (avoid breathing the vapors too much) and use rubber gloves. Acetone is harsh on the skin. It won't burn it or anything, but it leaves it very dry, and I suspect it could do more damage over time. So don't take chances.
Don't forget two things: use acetone in a well ventilated room (avoid breathing the vapors too much) and use rubber gloves. Acetone is harsh on the skin. It won't burn it or anything, but it leaves it very dry, and I suspect it could do more damage over time. So don't take chances.
I normally use acetone, too.... but the positive photo resist usually developed by NaOH, --- appx 14 g to the liter, can be stripped by a stronger NaOH solution, -- appx 50-60 g pr liter..
use a brush to help dissolve the resist
Often I actually use both- acetone first- because i use a chemical tin plating, and the last NaoH strips any residues sometimes left by the acetone, and preps the boards for the tin.
OTOH- at least some of the pre coated boards sold throughout europe, don't need stripping, as the resist can funtion as a solder mask and can be soldered right through.........at least that's what the PR says...
use a brush to help dissolve the resist
Often I actually use both- acetone first- because i use a chemical tin plating, and the last NaoH strips any residues sometimes left by the acetone, and preps the boards for the tin.
OTOH- at least some of the pre coated boards sold throughout europe, don't need stripping, as the resist can funtion as a solder mask and can be soldered right through.........at least that's what the PR says...
The resist is claimed to be solderable/fluxing on the board I use but I find it's a complete lie. What is NaOH? SInterested by your comments as I'm also using a chemical tin plating.
NaOH---Sodium hydroxide -. or caustic soda.........
The usual paint shop stuff does the job just nicely.. no need to disturb the chemists....
BTW- I don't trust it either, - as solder mask.....
tin plate.. and/or use some good spray-on stuff...............
The usual paint shop stuff does the job just nicely.. no need to disturb the chemists....
BTW- I don't trust it either, - as solder mask.....
tin plate.. and/or use some good spray-on stuff...............
I thought it was Sodium Hydroxide, just checking. Might try acetone though just to see. NaoH on it's own seems to leave a film behind.
Paint shop? The stuff I use is drain cleaner.
Paint shop? The stuff I use is drain cleaner.
richie00boy said:
Impure NaOH or something else mixed to drain cleaner?
I have used 2% NaOH and result is as clean as possible. Leave soaking for 2-15mins and rinse with hot tap water after NaOH and you should be done.
Steel wool or abrasive paper takes years to remove etch resist what we use at local univ. especially if I exposure bit longish time(paper mask for example) Maybe that resist is stronger than some others, it is also negative instead of usual? positive resist.
After drilling i use also steel wool to remove drilling burrs
If it is sold as "drain cleaner", it might have some other additives...
Over here we buy it at the paint shop as "caustic soda",- also used for paint stripping and heavy duty cleaning
( and beleive i t or not: to make "lutefisk"-- dried cod soaked in lye, then rinsed for a couple of days in water.... a well known norwegian delicacy, mostly used around x-mas time.... and-- it is no joke !!!!!)
Over here we buy it at the paint shop as "caustic soda",- also used for paint stripping and heavy duty cleaning
( and beleive i t or not: to make "lutefisk"-- dried cod soaked in lye, then rinsed for a couple of days in water.... a well known norwegian delicacy, mostly used around x-mas time.... and-- it is no joke !!!!!)
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