I am assembling the 3A amp from ESP. He states to use a "normal" green led. Would this be T1, T1 3/4 or does it matter?
Also, anybody got a recommendation for a heatsink?
Also, anybody got a recommendation for a heatsink?
No it doesn't matter. The LED should have the same voltage drop.
But don't change the color.
About the heatsink, I usually use a Multi, 2U 19" enclosure, available from Powerbox. www.powerbox.se
Which have heatsinks on the sides, the biggest enclosure have a thermal rating of 0,17K/W.
/Freddie
But don't change the color.
About the heatsink, I usually use a Multi, 2U 19" enclosure, available from Powerbox. www.powerbox.se
Which have heatsinks on the sides, the biggest enclosure have a thermal rating of 0,17K/W.
/Freddie
It's not a Class A amp, so heatsinks are not as critical. But the bigger the better. It depends on what voltage you're running at and what load you're driving (i.e. 4 ohms is worse).
I'm using something like the Wakefield 423K.
I'm using something like the Wakefield 423K.
Thanks for the responses. In the assembly instructions Rod states that C1 can be anything from 1 mf to 10 mf. I have two caps in hand which fit the bill. One is a 4.7 mf electrolytic, the other a 1 mf metal film box cap.
Question: Is there anything to recommend one over the other or does it (as the instructions appear to suggest) really not matter as long as it is between 1 and 10 mf?
Thanks again
Steve
Question: Is there anything to recommend one over the other or does it (as the instructions appear to suggest) really not matter as long as it is between 1 and 10 mf?
Thanks again
Steve
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