That is a primer designed for 3M tape adhesion improvement, so I guess it will not be flexible. A flashpoint of 11ºC doesn't sound like a good idea to me either.
A good coating adds no (or at least very very little) thickness and weight
One which I'm using for paper membranes, even for suspension edges https://artsup.com.au/products/mod-podge-gloss-lustre
What is mod podge -> https://www.vaessen-creative.com/en/blog/what-is-mod-podge-ideas-tips
What is mod podge -> https://www.vaessen-creative.com/en/blog/what-is-mod-podge-ideas-tips
A little bit OT if I may. I am going to rebuild the dustcovers for an ESL63.
Is there a good way to remove the double sided tape from the frame parts?
Probably not good to use any solvent?
How would you guys do it?
Jan
Is there a good way to remove the double sided tape from the frame parts?
Probably not good to use any solvent?
How would you guys do it?
Jan
You can use a plexiglass scraper with the edge tapered by using a belt sander
This will get the majority off and then some solvent for what remains
This will get the majority off and then some solvent for what remains
Brake cleaner is good but do not forget nitril gloves and a well ventilated area.
This thread has been going for 17 F-ing years! Unbelieveable!
I used a combo of scraping and GoofOff to get the glue off the grids before replacing the diaphragms. I glued the new diaphragms using 4693H contact cement. Unlike the factory glue, 4693H actually bonds to the film and the grid.
I just rebuilt a pair of Quad ESL-63s. I checked resonance of the drivers before and after spraying with Licron Crystal. Resonance dropped about 1 Hz. Resistivity was 10^8-10^9 Ohms/square. I have drivers that I sprayed with Licron (before "crystal") back in the early to mid 90s (IRIC) and they still read 10^8 Ohms/square (and the 4693H glue is still holding). The stuff works, lasts, and takes only seconds to apply, it's pretty cheap, and widely available. I don't see much point in using anything else.
Here's how I masked the drivers for spraying- 3D printed masks fit over the ends of the drivers and cover the center holes. Note the blue masking tape covering the long sides of the driver. I make four quick, right to left passes over the driver with the Licron Crystal. I sprayed all eight drivers in about 10 minutes. This is, by far, the easiest part of restoring these speakers to as-new operation.
Here's the resonance before and after spraying with Licron Crystal - this one is typical.
I used a combo of scraping and GoofOff to get the glue off the grids before replacing the diaphragms. I glued the new diaphragms using 4693H contact cement. Unlike the factory glue, 4693H actually bonds to the film and the grid.
I just rebuilt a pair of Quad ESL-63s. I checked resonance of the drivers before and after spraying with Licron Crystal. Resonance dropped about 1 Hz. Resistivity was 10^8-10^9 Ohms/square. I have drivers that I sprayed with Licron (before "crystal") back in the early to mid 90s (IRIC) and they still read 10^8 Ohms/square (and the 4693H glue is still holding). The stuff works, lasts, and takes only seconds to apply, it's pretty cheap, and widely available. I don't see much point in using anything else.
Here's how I masked the drivers for spraying- 3D printed masks fit over the ends of the drivers and cover the center holes. Note the blue masking tape covering the long sides of the driver. I make four quick, right to left passes over the driver with the Licron Crystal. I sprayed all eight drivers in about 10 minutes. This is, by far, the easiest part of restoring these speakers to as-new operation.
Here's the resonance before and after spraying with Licron Crystal - this one is typical.
Very helpful post; thanks for sharing your observations! Amazing what we can accomplish in 17 years.
Few
Few
Yes; this is a long-lived thread, and many of the members posting here have been around for a long time too!
In fact; several of you inspired my first ESL build in 2008.
In fact; several of you inspired my first ESL build in 2008.
Well it also depends on your specific application. Your ESLs are pretty well protected against UV for example. A naked audiostatic is not. Some people have their own opinion about the best resistance, added weight etc, each his own up of tea
I can imagine that different combinations of tension, high voltage, series R etc make for a particular 'character' of the speaker. Like evrything in audio, personal preference varies all over the place. There's no one 'best' setup I guess.
Jan
Jan
There is no best, but there is just rest ........ or challenge, experiment, investigate, push limits, improve.
This thread is old, but look at the joined dates of the commenters. We all could probably use a couple ibuprofen right about now...
Sheldon
Sheldon