Planet 10,
Everything looks good. Ed please make sure everyone you send a kit to knows about these generic patterns, that specific patterns for specific drivers are available and we that can generate virtual patterns locations for any specific driver, if they will but post a 15 to 30 degree off axis picture, on the non technical thread.
Thanks,
Bud
Everything looks good. Ed please make sure everyone you send a kit to knows about these generic patterns, that specific patterns for specific drivers are available and we that can generate virtual patterns locations for any specific driver, if they will but post a 15 to 30 degree off axis picture, on the non technical thread.
Thanks,
Bud
The paint's not included? I'm in but would love to have the preferred paint included in the kit, too.
Thanks Chris...re the paint...the 404106 flat finish which Bud recommends, dries "clear"...it is difficult to see without just the right light and angle of view. Many of you have seen colored paint being used. That is OK to use, just remember Bud doesn't favor gloss finish, the "flat" paint contains more solids.
Thanks Bud, The wrapping I'll use for the nibs will include printed links for many key posts.
Thanks Dave, We all benefit from your input. It makes my job easier.
Participants need not worry that I haven't sent out notices yet. I plan to have the goods in-hand (or almost) before requesting payment. I think it is better doing it that way. As more sign on I feel more comfortable with that. I did find that my preferred supplier for the gloss coat is restocking. I'll contact them tomorrow to get an ETA and from that decide whether to go to another source.
Thanks Bud, The wrapping I'll use for the nibs will include printed links for many key posts.
Thanks Dave, We all benefit from your input. It makes my job easier.
Participants need not worry that I haven't sent out notices yet. I plan to have the goods in-hand (or almost) before requesting payment. I think it is better doing it that way. As more sign on I feel more comfortable with that. I did find that my preferred supplier for the gloss coat is restocking. I'll contact them tomorrow to get an ETA and from that decide whether to go to another source.
Oh, my goof! I thought the polyscale was just a different option for the 'gloss coat'
I'm still in)
I'm still in)
Please add me to the list
I have been wanting to try enABL and this kit will make it easy, so please add me to the list. I will watch this thread to see when you need the cash and you should be able to email through the forum.
thanks for doing this.
Leonard
I have been wanting to try enABL and this kit will make it easy, so please add me to the list. I will watch this thread to see when you need the cash and you should be able to email through the forum.
thanks for doing this.
Leonard
zobsky,
Yes the treatment will work over damar. Dave of Planet 10 can describe what the two together sound like, better than I will be able to. The patterns just take whatever surface they are provided with and correct, at minimum, the portions of signals described in the linked post below, without materially changing the character of the sound. It appears most current surface treatments for drivers are aimed at reducing some objectionable peak in response. EnABL will leave that corrected relationship intact, but bring greater dynamic headroom and the clarity described in the post below, across the FR bandwidth.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1457401#post1457401
You will likely need to use less Gloss Coat, but that is just an assumption.
Bud
Yes the treatment will work over damar. Dave of Planet 10 can describe what the two together sound like, better than I will be able to. The patterns just take whatever surface they are provided with and correct, at minimum, the portions of signals described in the linked post below, without materially changing the character of the sound. It appears most current surface treatments for drivers are aimed at reducing some objectionable peak in response. EnABL will leave that corrected relationship intact, but bring greater dynamic headroom and the clarity described in the post below, across the FR bandwidth.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1457401#post1457401
You will likely need to use less Gloss Coat, but that is just an assumption.
Bud
BudP said:
After some initial experiments i only use damar for the pattern i put on the FE126/127 and on the occasional floppy whizzer cone, so i can't really say what it will sound like. But you can EnABL right over top of the damar.
It likely will also give you a bit less wicking of the pollyscale into the paper, and because the damar has already sealed the cone, less gloss coat as well.
dave
I may have given the impression in my first post that I had no interest in sending kits outside the US. That's not the case.
I have checked postage rates to Canada and Europe. I admit I was surprised how reasonable postage is. I will send kits to Canada via USPS 1st class for the same $26.
Europe is reasonable as well. The cost for kits headed there will be $28, also for USPS 1st class. I did become aware I would have to fill out customs declarations...just part of making the world a safer place to live. 😀
I'll check other destinations as interest is expressed.
I have checked postage rates to Canada and Europe. I admit I was surprised how reasonable postage is. I will send kits to Canada via USPS 1st class for the same $26.
Europe is reasonable as well. The cost for kits headed there will be $28, also for USPS 1st class. I did become aware I would have to fill out customs declarations...just part of making the world a safer place to live. 😀
I'll check other destinations as interest is expressed.
I'm interested.
Can you see the paint when you apply?
Does it dry clear?
Thanks for the e-mail Ed.
Can you see the paint when you apply?
Does it dry clear?
Thanks for the e-mail Ed.
planet10 said:
Thank you, both . I'll be sending in my $$ shortly. How many, say 6.5", drivers will this kit typically cover?
zobsky said:
Quite a fewm 20-30... what will likely limit how many you can do is how quickly you do them. Once opened the pollyscale starts going off and even thou i am doing tens & tens of drivers i have had to abandon half full bottles of polyscale.
dave
planet10 said:
Wow, 20-30 drivers? I only really need to do this for a pair. Anyone want to sell me a kit at a discount after use? How long do you usually find polyscale to last after opening?
How quickly does the polyscale go bad? How about longevity of the microscale once it's opened? I'll probably start with one set of 4" drivers, then if I like what it does, I'll do a few more. But it's likely to be a month or more before I finish 2 or 3 sets of drivers unless I really need to whip them out. Thanks.
Carl
Carl
Hi all,
Actual longevity of the Poly S is wholly dependent upon how you treat the cap, glass bottle sealing lip and how often you shake the dickens out of the bottle. If you always wipe out the lid with a tissue, after preshaking and opening and always wipe off the bottle lip, before resealing and always shake the thing when you remember to, but at least once a month, then lifetime can be years. This is assuming you don't have the bottle open for hours on end, as Dave must, to treat tens of drivers at a time.
Micro Gloss lifetime seems to be indefinite. I have bottles from the 80's and they are still viable. Never, ever shake this stuff. A gentle swirl, to remix water and gloss, is all you are allowed. The froth created by shaking the Micro Gloss can take days to settle out.
Other things to know are:
1. Run an open flame over the sharp end of the new pen tips for 10 seconds or so, before first usage, to burn off the wax coating on the metal.
2. Always wash the pen tip between pattern ring sets. This will keep the Poly S from setting up and bonding to the metal.
3. Do not drink coffee before you try to pattern a driver.
4. Don't worry about liquid lifetimes, the stuff is cheap and relatively easy to get hold of.
5. You will end up treating every loudspeaker in your local area. Trust me on this. Your friends, brothers and sisters in law and local teen aged boom box addicts will all want your help.
6. Wash the brush you use for the Micro Gloss with liquid dish soap and rinse very thoroughly.
Bud
Actual longevity of the Poly S is wholly dependent upon how you treat the cap, glass bottle sealing lip and how often you shake the dickens out of the bottle. If you always wipe out the lid with a tissue, after preshaking and opening and always wipe off the bottle lip, before resealing and always shake the thing when you remember to, but at least once a month, then lifetime can be years. This is assuming you don't have the bottle open for hours on end, as Dave must, to treat tens of drivers at a time.
Micro Gloss lifetime seems to be indefinite. I have bottles from the 80's and they are still viable. Never, ever shake this stuff. A gentle swirl, to remix water and gloss, is all you are allowed. The froth created by shaking the Micro Gloss can take days to settle out.
Other things to know are:
1. Run an open flame over the sharp end of the new pen tips for 10 seconds or so, before first usage, to burn off the wax coating on the metal.
2. Always wash the pen tip between pattern ring sets. This will keep the Poly S from setting up and bonding to the metal.
3. Do not drink coffee before you try to pattern a driver.
4. Don't worry about liquid lifetimes, the stuff is cheap and relatively easy to get hold of.
5. You will end up treating every loudspeaker in your local area. Trust me on this. Your friends, brothers and sisters in law and local teen aged boom box addicts will all want your help.
6. Wash the brush you use for the Micro Gloss with liquid dish soap and rinse very thoroughly.
Bud
BudP said:
well, provided they don't believe everything they might read on the internet, and just trust their ears instead.
Bud,
Something I've read that scale-modelers do when they spray these finishes is dilute with glass cleaning solution (Windex). Do you have experience with this?
Something I've read that scale-modelers do when they spray these finishes is dilute with glass cleaning solution (Windex). Do you have experience with this?