Never ever saw so many iron filings in a gap.
Looks like somebody crumbled a steel wool ball over it.
That said, use a properly curved piece of business card or plastic, guiding a reverse applied piece of painter´s sticky tape: with he adhesive outside: clean - vacuum - clean - vacuum, every time you will have less junk, easier done than written. you might get lucky.
Plan B: desolder tinsel wires from terminals, liberally wet suspension-to-frame and edge-to-frame glued joints with Toluene or commercial contact cement solvent.
Let it wet and dissolve, repeat as needed, in a couple hours you should be able to separate suspension from frame with a thin knife tip, edge takes somewhat more.
You will be able to remove full cone - VC - suspension from frame and clean the gap fully, then reglue in place.
Use shims as needed.
I do it all the time, like any other speaker repair guy.
Maybe not in USA, where it´s cheaper to discard and buy new, but popular everywhere else.
Looks like somebody crumbled a steel wool ball over it.
That said, use a properly curved piece of business card or plastic, guiding a reverse applied piece of painter´s sticky tape: with he adhesive outside: clean - vacuum - clean - vacuum, every time you will have less junk, easier done than written. you might get lucky.
Plan B: desolder tinsel wires from terminals, liberally wet suspension-to-frame and edge-to-frame glued joints with Toluene or commercial contact cement solvent.
Let it wet and dissolve, repeat as needed, in a couple hours you should be able to separate suspension from frame with a thin knife tip, edge takes somewhat more.
You will be able to remove full cone - VC - suspension from frame and clean the gap fully, then reglue in place.
Use shims as needed.
I do it all the time, like any other speaker repair guy.
Maybe not in USA, where it´s cheaper to discard and buy new, but popular everywhere else.
no external magnet will be as strong as the field inside a speaker gap.
Sir, this is a website for old men who tinker. 🤣
Wow, I like it! Perfect meditative enterprise for upcoming snowstorm days.
It looked like a miniature forest of iron shards in there. A lot came out from vacuuming. Gap is too tight to get tape in there.
Even when it is cheaper to buy new things, the less I paid for something, the more I enjoy using it, if that makes sense to anybody. These things become a wellspring of satisfaction. So I might do that ungluing process.
I'm not a good one to judge when it's time to give up on a project as I have turned many projects into a quest!!
But you maybe getting close to that point.
Maybe send the speaker out with a bang, take it outside, connect an extension cord to it, say a few words and then
plug it in.
Yes I've done that!
But you maybe getting close to that point.
Maybe send the speaker out with a bang, take it outside, connect an extension cord to it, say a few words and then
plug it in.
Yes I've done that!
I had cleaned those kind of particles with a magnetized screwdriver. As the particles are in the field closer to one magnetic pole they take its magnetic status. The approximation of a non or weak magnetized piece of iron, to a magnetized pole, readily converts it into the opposit pole (a pole N rejects N domains in the screwdriver far from the tip and attracts S ones). As the particles has their N and S close toguether, their own magnetic fields are weak and predominates the polaririty of the pole they are adhered. Thus the screwdriver tip tends to suck the quasy neutral particles automatically. Do it an auto test.
One of hundreds I unglued to recycle/clean/whatever:
Yes, it does not look "new" 😉 and in this particular case (not yours) edge suffered because it was the weakest of the weak, a foam edge.
Toluene dissolves foam.
And even so, once reglued it will work fine, specially after a cardboard edge is glued on and a couple little contact cement squirts are applied over foam edge cracks.
Guaranteed: reglued speaker will work as good as new, measure the same, etc.
Cloth or paper edges are even better, toluene dissolves cement but does not attack them.
Notice suspension which is treated cloth looks perfect.
Yes, it does not look "new" 😉 and in this particular case (not yours) edge suffered because it was the weakest of the weak, a foam edge.
Toluene dissolves foam.
And even so, once reglued it will work fine, specially after a cardboard edge is glued on and a couple little contact cement squirts are applied over foam edge cracks.
Guaranteed: reglued speaker will work as good as new, measure the same, etc.
Cloth or paper edges are even better, toluene dissolves cement but does not attack them.
Notice suspension which is treated cloth looks perfect.
Hard task. I never disassemble a LS in such a depth. But I did clean particles in the magnetic gap.
CB15 looks like a cast frame driver.
So Eminence should offer a re cone kit.
not sure why you would throw it away.
So Eminence should offer a re cone kit.
not sure why you would throw it away.
I am pleased to award you the points for this answer, sir. 😆
I found many of these "steel wool" particles all over the back of the magnet and they readily, or somewhat readily, attach to a small ceramic magnet.
However I don't think I'm going to get all this crap out of the gap, and I'm not even persuaded that it's the cause of the rattle. Obviously just doing this "for science" at this point and to annoy people who wish I would give up. 🤣 Your contribution to speakerology is acknowledged.
That last piece is a big chuck to come out of a voice coil gap. Have you tried it after the cleaning?
You still can't really get to the outside edge of the gap short of un-gluing the cone.
It sure is a big chunk, and I pulled several of these out! That's why it seemed reasonable to hope it would clear up, but the rattle is unchanged. This magnet inhaled a lot of metal. Made me think these aren't even the problem. It doesn't scrape from just pushing on it, only when producing sound. I wonder whether paint thinner would work to unglue the spider and cone, because I don't plan to spend any money here.
Should be, but seems there isn't one in stock. Even so, it's a $189 speaker, and the recone would be 2/3 of that price. The 'rescue attempt' is just for fun. Would be nice if there were cheap generic kits, but no.
I was hoping the rescue would work.
sure talking to right guy you could get a coil spider and cone that would work.
would only guess eminence only has so many metal works as well.
so likely 3 or 4 or more cones and coils would drop right in.
or likely someone put together a generic kit.
sure talking to right guy you could get a coil spider and cone that would work.
would only guess eminence only has so many metal works as well.
so likely 3 or 4 or more cones and coils would drop right in.
or likely someone put together a generic kit.
The Speaker Exchange can usually put together an aftermarket kit. They have pre-defined ones listed on their site for pretty much any Eminence speaker they have worked on in the past (And presumably can still get parts for). Average price is about $75. Some more, some less. You won’t always get exactly the same parameters but if you do get exactly the right voice coil and get the mass right it will drop into an existing cab with pretty much the same tuning. There are likely just a limited number of standard coils that Eminence uses, shared between different models. Much easier for them to source, rather than a unique coil per driver. High frequency response is anybody’s guess - even changing the dust cap will alter that a lot. In many cases, you will get the original manufacturers cone. They get them from somewhere, too.
If you have them recone it, it will be about the same price as the original driver retail. You do that when you don’t know what you’re doing and have an out of production driver that you want back. This is the perfect case for teaching yourself how to recone a speaker. If it goes badly you‘re not out that much money.
Seem you have experience. My eternal question about it is how to mantain the coil centered in the magnet's gap
?
?
Just by shimming with three or four strips of thin plastic or cardboard/thick postcard paper or with the cylindrical shim that comes with some recone kits. You need to shim anyway with a recone kit that doesn't come preassembled to get the VC's position exactly adjusted with the magnet gap height. Afaik most, if not all Speaker Exchange aftermarket kits don't come pre-assembled, but in parts instead.
Best regards!
Best regards!