I am now planning to built a DIY Response 1sc with Seas units and etc. However, since I am lack of testing equipments and do not know the charteristics of the units. I wanna to use an electronic crossover to drive two LM3886 power amps for each channel.
Thus, the coverover freq., HF and LF balance can be adjusted via the volume controls in the electronic crossover. Do you have any comment with this approach? What is the suggested circuit for the electronic crossover?
Many thx.
Thus, the coverover freq., HF and LF balance can be adjusted via the volume controls in the electronic crossover. Do you have any comment with this approach? What is the suggested circuit for the electronic crossover?
Many thx.
Rachel,
Biamping is an excellent solution.
I'm working on an active crossover thread (it's in the Everything Else forum), but it's not done yet. I'll be adding stuff for the next few weeks, I imagine. Once I get that put together, you'll be able to use the material in there to build either a fixed crossover, or a variable one if that suits you.
Grey
Biamping is an excellent solution.
I'm working on an active crossover thread (it's in the Everything Else forum), but it's not done yet. I'll be adding stuff for the next few weeks, I imagine. Once I get that put together, you'll be able to use the material in there to build either a fixed crossover, or a variable one if that suits you.
Grey
Well, you say that you don't know the characteristics of drivers and you go for active crossover because of that. You still will have to remember that this only helps you partly as the falloff of the elements are not ideal and the cabinet edges create you additional frequency response problems. So even if you do active crossover, it will be easier as you have constant impedance load for filters, but you will not get any better results on frequency response part. To achieve good response it would still be necessary for you to know how the elements behave in YOUR speaker box..... The problem would likely be smaller for HF driver but for midbass it is still complicated. You can get the idea by looking at any decent midbass elements frequency response on manufacturers web page or datasheet. Pretty much all of them have some amount of response rise before they start to roll off.
One could try to overcome it by starting to cross over the midbass element at a frequency where the response is still straight with a steep crossover, but that would likely be too low for a tweeter...
Ergo
One could try to overcome it by starting to cross over the midbass element at a frequency where the response is still straight with a steep crossover, but that would likely be too low for a tweeter...
Ergo
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.