• WARNING: Tube/Valve amplifiers use potentially LETHAL HIGH VOLTAGES.
    Building, troubleshooting and testing of these amplifiers should only be
    performed by someone who is thoroughly familiar with
    the safety precautions around high voltages.

EL84 triode as driver tube vs SV83, 6P15P....

I was using DC on the heaters from my bench supply. Shouldn't hum. If I were to use AC, then your solution is very welcome and I'd do that.

I prefer not to use bypass caps - I used filament bias with the DHTs I used to build with like 26 and 4P1L. If I had to (like with the 300b) I would always use a proper polypropylene cap, and not a metalised one, certainly not an electrolytic. Thanks again - you are always very helpful!
 
My shortlist of triode drivers for my 300b SE is now looking like:
EL84/SV83 mu 20
E80L mu 21
6973 mu ?
6197 mu 22
EF80 mu 40

And in octal:
6V6 mu 10
EL33 mu 20

I've listened to EL84 and PL33 now, both good. I have some 6P6S (6V6) to try next. I've ordered some 6197. I think I tried EF80, can't remember. 6973 and E80L will be more expensive but my curiosity may well lead me to buy pairs of each.

There are plenty more I can try. I have 6S4A for instance, a triode which I have in a Leak Stereo 20 PPP mod with ECC40 driver. I also have ECC99, 6N30P, E80CC, 6SN7, 2C22 though I wasn't really seduced by any of those, not compared to EL84 or PL33. The 2C22 was good but I don't really want to use top caps and I'd like at least 15mA current for a 300b driver. I'm leaving out 4P1L, 2P29L, 46, 10Y which I've used extensively, since this is a deliberate experiment in indirectly heated tubes. I could go further into octals like KT61 and 6P25/26 but doubt if they would be better than my PL33. So it's back to the shortlist above.
 
Last edited: