Hi George,
Do we know anyone having acces to this Machine.
It is cited frequently that the tip transfers heat to the cantilever and from there into the air, which may be true, but the question is how much?
A Boron cantilever has a heat transfer ratio of 2.7 W/(m.k), for the epoxy bonding even as low as 0.14 W/(m.k) against the super heat transfer ratio of 2200 W/(m.k) for the diamond tip.
So this machine that you mention could measure in one go the tip temp, the groove temp and the cantilever temp.
That could clarify a lot.
Hans
Do we know anyone having acces to this Machine.
It is cited frequently that the tip transfers heat to the cantilever and from there into the air, which may be true, but the question is how much?
A Boron cantilever has a heat transfer ratio of 2.7 W/(m.k), for the epoxy bonding even as low as 0.14 W/(m.k) against the super heat transfer ratio of 2200 W/(m.k) for the diamond tip.
So this machine that you mention could measure in one go the tip temp, the groove temp and the cantilever temp.
That could clarify a lot.
Hans
Also interesting to know is that high temp Epoxy starts losing its strength at ca 200C and completely desintegrates at 300C.
With figures of 160C tip temp that some mention while playing 33 1/3 LP’s, it’s already very close to the 200C.
But when playing at 45rpm or even worse at 78rpm, thereby generating proportionally more frictional power turned into heat, would mean that you are facing the risk of a tip separating from the cantilever.
I’ve never heard this to happen.
Hans
With figures of 160C tip temp that some mention while playing 33 1/3 LP’s, it’s already very close to the 200C.
But when playing at 45rpm or even worse at 78rpm, thereby generating proportionally more frictional power turned into heat, would mean that you are facing the risk of a tip separating from the cantilever.
I’ve never heard this to happen.
Hans
Hi hans
I've deliberately burned all my bridges with the past
I don't know if you can contact any dealer for short time leasing.
Not in one go. The numbers will be wrong. I mentioned the way to do it properly in post #49
George
Don't think about it. Try touching the tip with a sensitive finger. Anything close to 50 C will be detected.
For the record, I had two tip separations but none was due to heat disintegration of the epoxy (tested under microscope)
George
All fascinating.
BUT.. I recently inherited a Large(ish ) collection of Lps.
Most all of which were New/sealed /never removed form their sleeves, let alone played.
Directly compared to My Original and lightly played Exact same Lps.. The sounds.. on the new Lps ( thorens and a Microline stylus) .
Are Markedly .. instantly apparent.. Better sounding... a lot better.
More Sparkle, range and presence in their playback.
Very nice and gives genuine appreciation of the actual sound qualities in a simple Vinyl LP.
Also.. an instant reminder of what was clearly obvious /generally accepted knowledge in the 60's /70's ;
LPs deteriorate audibly by their 6 to 8th playback.. Period.
NO amount of analysis sophisticated 'after the fact' alters that reality.
I found this sound quality degradation thru use.. to be absolutely true, at least to MY ears.
BUT.. I recently inherited a Large(ish ) collection of Lps.
Most all of which were New/sealed /never removed form their sleeves, let alone played.
Directly compared to My Original and lightly played Exact same Lps.. The sounds.. on the new Lps ( thorens and a Microline stylus) .
Are Markedly .. instantly apparent.. Better sounding... a lot better.
More Sparkle, range and presence in their playback.
Very nice and gives genuine appreciation of the actual sound qualities in a simple Vinyl LP.
Also.. an instant reminder of what was clearly obvious /generally accepted knowledge in the 60's /70's ;
LPs deteriorate audibly by their 6 to 8th playback.. Period.
NO amount of analysis sophisticated 'after the fact' alters that reality.
I found this sound quality degradation thru use.. to be absolutely true, at least to MY ears.
