Echolette M40 Cap job ... now everything sucks

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I looked at the way it was before and what you did... you did it correct...
The only thing is both - (black) lugs from the bottom of the caps should be grounded or a measurement of 0 ohms and when you power it powered on.. check from the metal frame to each black -
lug and there will be 0 dc volts if it hooked up correct.. seems you are only missing the ground....
 
Before I go hooking things back up the only thing I'm confused about is that one of the original wires connected to that wire measures 21VAC when powered on, while the other measure 0V. The 21V seems like it must be the output tubes bias supply, but it's not connected to the bias circuit. The wire that IS connected to the bias circuit measures OV. Seems weird to treat both of those black wires (the ones that were jumpered originally to the cans) as if they were the same, when one is measuring 0V and the other 21V. Make sense?
 
if the black wires went from each metal can cap and hooked together at the top...
they are both ground... and the wires are color coded,,, Black is for ground,,,
so what you are measuring is ac from the rect circuit....

The old circuit used the outside of the metal caps for ground which also hooks to the metal cabinet...

and with out one of the caps being grounded you would measure some ac volts there..... and if you measure 21 volts ac on that wire.?? the wire hooks to the transformer...?? if it hooked together before its still is the same...
 
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with 1 100uf cap not grounded it would not have the same B+ voltage..

and everything else is biased from that.... Only thing i would worry is to make sure both caps are hooked together
at the - connection and are grounded..... meaning no DC volts or ac volts. !! i hope this helps...

IF I was close i could help.. but Ohio here.......
 
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Before I go hooking things back up the only thing I'm confused about is that one of the original wires connected to that wire measures 21VAC when powered on, while the other measure 0V. The 21V seems like it must be the output tubes bias supply, but it's not connected to the bias circuit. The wire that IS connected to the bias circuit measures OV. Seems weird to treat both of those black wires (the ones that were jumpered originally to the cans) as if they were the same, when one is measuring 0V and the other 21V. Make sense?


Please have a look at my post (15, 17) and add the jumper I mentioned, as I explained those two black wires are probably not both connected to ground, one should go right back to the center tap on the HV secondary. (Check with jumper in place to see whether or not you have continuity to ground.)
 
Hey all. Replaced the two of the PS filter cans with two new 100uF caps. Wired it exactly the same, as far as I can tell. The difference, as the schematic shows, is that instead of two internal caps wired in parallel, the new caps are each 100uF.

After the swap, two things happened. Immediately, R89 started getting really hot ... to the point of smoking. Now it doesn't smoke, but gets got. Which is just weird.

Also, the filament voltages on everything in the H1 circuit are really low, like half normal (3.1). Voltage on the power tube heaters are also low (5.1).

Needless to say, it sounds like ****. Any thoughts? I know I'm missing something obvious, as I'm not particularly good at this.

Thanks!!
best cap job, is to remove all wet caps.
think wima dclink
 
Hi there,
Jhebass did you solve this ground issue?, cause i've got the same problem here with my unit,
i've wired my new caps in the same way, and it sounds horrible, i can hear a really weak crossover distortion sound like along with some sort of current noises.. very bad..
cheers
 
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