low cost main cable
Hi lineup,
You can perform simple test by using modulation cable as main cable for source or speaker cable as main cable for amplifier or source. Having good or bad result is not important. After this test you can evaluate what you can reach or loose by changing main cable.
Eric
Hi lineup,
lineup said:
You can perform simple test by using modulation cable as main cable for source or speaker cable as main cable for amplifier or source. Having good or bad result is not important. After this test you can evaluate what you can reach or loose by changing main cable.
Eric
I may try such test some time.
At least if I am right, there is no audiable effect by mains cables, it can not hurt my system.
What is a 'modulation cable'?
At least if I am right, there is no audiable effect by mains cables, it can not hurt my system.
What is a 'modulation cable'?
Magura said:
I did not know there was gold fuses.
If I am surprised? 😀 Of course not 😀
Now fuses after the trafo-rectifier bridge is another thing, than Mains fuses.
And probably such fuses could cause very, very small electrical effects.
Doubt still, that anything could be verified in a controlled ABX Double Blind listening test.
As was mentioned, new house wiring in the U.S. uses circuit breakers: 15 - 20 A, 120V.
I don't think you could find a fuse box for residential service, even if you were inclined.
I ran a dedicated power circuit for my audio system, no other noise generating devices are on that circuit run.
That made a large difference in clarity, and detail and dropped the noise floor. Voltage is constant with no other devices to produce a voltage drop. I highly recommend this, if possible.
In the US small 3AG type fuses have been available in gold for a while, they are pricey and probably used primarily in auto sound completion.
I usually treat the fuses in my Hafler 220(s) with Cramolin.
I have been tempted to try a better fuse replacement for the speaker fuse first. I believe this would have a far greater impact on the sound; as it is in the signal path vs the fuses protecting the raw power supply circuit.
I don't think you could find a fuse box for residential service, even if you were inclined.
I ran a dedicated power circuit for my audio system, no other noise generating devices are on that circuit run.
That made a large difference in clarity, and detail and dropped the noise floor. Voltage is constant with no other devices to produce a voltage drop. I highly recommend this, if possible.
In the US small 3AG type fuses have been available in gold for a while, they are pricey and probably used primarily in auto sound completion.
I usually treat the fuses in my Hafler 220(s) with Cramolin.
I have been tempted to try a better fuse replacement for the speaker fuse first. I believe this would have a far greater impact on the sound; as it is in the signal path vs the fuses protecting the raw power supply circuit.
This is one idea I have had, too.
To avoid to connect disturbing el-devices on the same phase as my audio system.
In my apartment is 3 big mains phases with one fuse each.
Where the power comes into my flat.
Each of these 3 phases has 3 fuses for different connected apparatus.
Making I have 9 such 'secondary fuses for wiring into my stuff.
All working at 230 Volt AC. And having each one Ground bar.
3 Mains incoming fuses: 16 Ampere
9 Secondary Mains : 10 Ampere
To avoid to connect disturbing el-devices on the same phase as my audio system.
In my apartment is 3 big mains phases with one fuse each.
Where the power comes into my flat.
Each of these 3 phases has 3 fuses for different connected apparatus.
Making I have 9 such 'secondary fuses for wiring into my stuff.
All working at 230 Volt AC. And having each one Ground bar.
3 Mains incoming fuses: 16 Ampere
9 Secondary Mains : 10 Ampere
Do people stop tweaking because they finally found the ultimate tweak, or do they just get fed up? I started then stopped then started again. 😀Cal Weldon said:
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