Please help me for following points
1> Is it possible to replace 1n(c11) with 220pf (if not available)
2> When mid-bass disappears, then the phase is wrong, so I will have to switch to the opposite position. Once I achived proper phase, Should I remove the switch with wire link, Or I will need it for feature.
3> VR1 is for adjustable gain. Is there need to adjust always or Once I adjusted I can contole with volume pot. Even Can I remove VR1 and achive the proper gain setup with 22k(R10) resister.
4> Can I replace TL072 with NE5532 to keep all remaining components same.
5> Is it stricktly advised to use closed box with 12" driver ? Or I can use ported enclosure with 10" driver
Regards.
1> Is it possible to replace 1n(c11) with 220pf (if not available)
2> When mid-bass disappears, then the phase is wrong, so I will have to switch to the opposite position. Once I achived proper phase, Should I remove the switch with wire link, Or I will need it for feature.
3> VR1 is for adjustable gain. Is there need to adjust always or Once I adjusted I can contole with volume pot. Even Can I remove VR1 and achive the proper gain setup with 22k(R10) resister.
4> Can I replace TL072 with NE5532 to keep all remaining components same.
5> Is it stricktly advised to use closed box with 12" driver ? Or I can use ported enclosure with 10" driver
Regards.
It is possible, but defeats the purpose of the capacitor.1> Is it possible to replace 1n(c11) with 220pf (if not available)
When you move the woofer to a different position it may be necessary to adjust the phase again. Keep the switch.2> When mid-bass disappears, then the phase is wrong, so I will have to switch to the opposite position. Once I achived proper phase, Should I remove the switch with wire link, Or I will need it for feature.
Once adjusted you control the volume of the entire system with the volume pot.3> VR1 is for adjustable gain. Is there need to adjust always or Once I adjusted I can contole with volume pot. Even Can I remove VR1 and achive the proper gain setup with 22k(R10) resister.
You can replace R10+VR1 by an adjusted R10 once you found the right setting. If you change something in the setup, you may however need to readjust and then the potentiometer is more practical.
Yes, but you may get issues with DC offset. That won't hurt the following stage, if C5 is in place, but it may limit the output swing.4> Can I replace TL072 with NE5532 to keep all remaining components same.
Read the article again and understand what you are building. The answer to your question is given in the section "Driver Selection and Hardware".5> Is it stricktly advised to use closed box with 12" driver ? Or I can use ported enclosure with 10" driver
1.) c11 is the RF attenuator. Yes you can replace the 1nF with another value. This changes the F-3dB of the RF filter.
4.) the TL0xx series are FET input opamps. If you must replace them then use another audio FET input opamp.
5.) the EQ & Gain is designed to work with a sealed box speaker. See Linkwitz transform.
The EQ required for a vented speaker is completely different. See 6th order alignment.
4.) the TL0xx series are FET input opamps. If you must replace them then use another audio FET input opamp.
5.) the EQ & Gain is designed to work with a sealed box speaker. See Linkwitz transform.
The EQ required for a vented speaker is completely different. See 6th order alignment.
Everything is fine now. I want to know more about phase switch. Which is the right position for me inverting or non-inverting. I found adjusting gain moves driver's cone front/back.
I found full-range input sounds good then low signal feed. I never experienced TL0xx so I can not make difference to ne5532 but it is good controller.
I found full-range input sounds good then low signal feed. I never experienced TL0xx so I can not make difference to ne5532 but it is good controller.
I want to know more about phase switch. Which is the right position for me inverting or non-inverting.
2> When mid-bass disappears, then the phase is wrong, so I will have to switch to the opposite position.
Sounds like extreme DC offset. Do you have C5 in place?I found adjusting gain moves driver's cone front/back.
Sounds like extreme DC offset. Do you have C5 in place?
I build exact same. Accept, 1n(c11) is replaced with 220pf. Yes I did not use 4.7uf B.P.(C5) and 100K(R14) because I thought, my power amp has input cap 2.2uf followed by 25k resister to ground (input-impedance resister)
When mid-bass disappears, then the phase is wrong, so I will have to switch to the opposite position.
Yes, I read this line in the article but did not find any big changes using phase.
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