I've got three of these amps with no ouput and look like they've been fixed before ( power supply for sure and near the input). Does anyone have a service manual?
I probed the rca inputs and it seems im getting some kind triangular sine wave ( with out any actual inputs plugged in).
This thread will only refer only 1 of the 3 amp i have
This thread will only refer only 1 of the 3 amp i have
I don't think it's anything to be concerned about. Drive a signal into it and see where it stops.
Well I took apart the amp completely and apparently who ever worked on this amp( major repairs have been done) broke the trace and installed a 15 amp fuse between the inductor and the output.
Should I replace with same fuse or fix the trace?? I'm guessing leave it but is 15 amp enough?
Should I replace with same fuse or fix the trace?? I'm guessing leave it but is 15 amp enough?
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The fuse size is generally printed near the fuse holder. For the best protection, you should use the lowest rated fuse that doesn't blow under normal operating conditions.
If the trace was burned, you need to repair it. Sometimes, traces are cut at the factory but it's relatively rare.
If the trace was burned, you need to repair it. Sometimes, traces are cut at the factory but it's relatively rare.
One or both of the transformers have a buzz to them. That could be the noise on the inputs?
Is this likely cause by the transformer or something causing the transformer to do this.
Is this likely cause by the transformer or something causing the transformer to do this.
On this amp someone added that board to the ic. Also added caps and resistors in parallel to the circuit. One of the other amps has the added caps but not the board or resistors.
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I just got a 4th one in and the ps and outputs are bad. I can get the rfp50n06s but can't get the outputs. They are rfp40n10. Do you know a sub for these?
RFP40N10 datasheet pdf datenblatt - Intersil Corporation - 40A, 100V, 0.040 Ohm, N-Channel Power MOSFETs ::: ALLDATASHEET :::
RFP40N10 datasheet pdf datenblatt - Intersil Corporation - 40A, 100V, 0.040 Ohm, N-Channel Power MOSFETs ::: ALLDATASHEET :::
I can tell you from personal experience that the mods on the amplifier were done at the repair facility. They were revisions added when amps came in for repair in Cali. These were monster amps in their day, but plagued with failures.
The fuse: Added so abusers (the 1 ohm crowd) would kill that, send it in, and Earthquake would either A) Incur less loss repairing it under warranty OR B) Charge you $125.00 to replace the fuse (hopefully).. It's rated to withstand the 2 ohm load and some 1 ohm loads (it's complicated..). The problem, engineering bugs aside, was people running them at 1 ohm. They specifically stated not to do that. These are 2 ohm minimum amplifiers. For Perry's edification, he's referring to a fuse UNDER the PCB. They cut the output trace and soldered an ATC fuse flat across the cut. You CAN remove it and repair the trace, BUT being the model has virtually no output disconnect (relay or otherwise) It is HIGHLY recommended that you fuse the speaker outputs externally in it's place. Just get an ATC inline holder, like this one:
Cut the loop center. Stuff one end of the pigtail into the + output terminal, and put an 8ga butt connector on the other end. Stuff the 15 amp fuse in that, sell it as such, and if they remove it it's on their head. Make that very clear to the buyer too.
The standoff card with the diodes, and IIRC one other mod were performed as an engineering revision. It's not unlike manufacturers to do things like this when they come in for repair. Far be it for them to actually issue a recall. IMHO Earthquakes attitude from the horses heads to the horses ***** over there suck in general, and that's a wide held opinion in the older audio community that has dealt with them before.
Hell of an amp that 200DHC was when it hit the streets though. Good luck with them!
- Matt
The fuse: Added so abusers (the 1 ohm crowd) would kill that, send it in, and Earthquake would either A) Incur less loss repairing it under warranty OR B) Charge you $125.00 to replace the fuse (hopefully).. It's rated to withstand the 2 ohm load and some 1 ohm loads (it's complicated..). The problem, engineering bugs aside, was people running them at 1 ohm. They specifically stated not to do that. These are 2 ohm minimum amplifiers. For Perry's edification, he's referring to a fuse UNDER the PCB. They cut the output trace and soldered an ATC fuse flat across the cut. You CAN remove it and repair the trace, BUT being the model has virtually no output disconnect (relay or otherwise) It is HIGHLY recommended that you fuse the speaker outputs externally in it's place. Just get an ATC inline holder, like this one:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Cut the loop center. Stuff one end of the pigtail into the + output terminal, and put an 8ga butt connector on the other end. Stuff the 15 amp fuse in that, sell it as such, and if they remove it it's on their head. Make that very clear to the buyer too.
The standoff card with the diodes, and IIRC one other mod were performed as an engineering revision. It's not unlike manufacturers to do things like this when they come in for repair. Far be it for them to actually issue a recall. IMHO Earthquakes attitude from the horses heads to the horses ***** over there suck in general, and that's a wide held opinion in the older audio community that has dealt with them before.
Hell of an amp that 200DHC was when it hit the streets though. Good luck with them!
- Matt
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