Hi all,
I guess this question at some point was somehow done, but I really did not find as specifically as I wanted to ask, so I would like to ask for opinion please 😱
Actually I am thinking in making my first build, but I am bit lost what it would be better; I read already many discussions about Class AB vs Class D, but even after , I still have not so clear choice; I guess it would be easier if I write what I would expect from my future amplifier...
I guess as majority of people, I would like clear sound, natural, and to be able from time to time to get suprised like discovering nice details in old known songs 🙂 I love that feeling 🙂 🙂
I heard that the LM3886 it's amazing for this, the clarity and natural sound 🙂 My concern is that my speakers are 8 ohms, and to be powered 20-120W, the 3886 in 8 Ohms at maximum can give about 40W (without being a bit crazy a putting the maximum voltage in the rails) so I am not sure if it would be enough, I am not expecting to use for parties but... not sure if I will miss some volume sometimes... And then, another difficulty is to get a good design pcb ...
In the other hand I heard really amazing things from the e3-tpa3255, the clear and natural sound, plenty of power and again the best of being D class also so much better efficiency than class A/AB... In the case of the e3-tpa3255 I read that the difficulties are to get the power supply...
Also I am planing to use a potentiometer in the input, so I know for certain configurations of 3886 I would need a buffer, and I have no idea in the case of the e3-tap3255, if it would need it or not....
So have any of you some advice for me please? 🙂
Thanks very much
😛
I guess this question at some point was somehow done, but I really did not find as specifically as I wanted to ask, so I would like to ask for opinion please 😱
Actually I am thinking in making my first build, but I am bit lost what it would be better; I read already many discussions about Class AB vs Class D, but even after , I still have not so clear choice; I guess it would be easier if I write what I would expect from my future amplifier...
I guess as majority of people, I would like clear sound, natural, and to be able from time to time to get suprised like discovering nice details in old known songs 🙂 I love that feeling 🙂 🙂
I heard that the LM3886 it's amazing for this, the clarity and natural sound 🙂 My concern is that my speakers are 8 ohms, and to be powered 20-120W, the 3886 in 8 Ohms at maximum can give about 40W (without being a bit crazy a putting the maximum voltage in the rails) so I am not sure if it would be enough, I am not expecting to use for parties but... not sure if I will miss some volume sometimes... And then, another difficulty is to get a good design pcb ...
In the other hand I heard really amazing things from the e3-tpa3255, the clear and natural sound, plenty of power and again the best of being D class also so much better efficiency than class A/AB... In the case of the e3-tpa3255 I read that the difficulties are to get the power supply...
Also I am planing to use a potentiometer in the input, so I know for certain configurations of 3886 I would need a buffer, and I have no idea in the case of the e3-tap3255, if it would need it or not....
So have any of you some advice for me please? 🙂
Thanks very much
😛
The 3eAUDIO TPA3255 has a very clear sound and the source makes a big difference. My DX160 has a dual Cirrus CS43198 DAC and this sounded bright, my Khadas Tone Board DAC sounds warmer/more analog.
Well as a source I will be having IQaudio PIC DAC+, Sound Blaster Audigy 2 platinum (old but very nice sound 😀 ) and a DragonFly Black (from which the signal has not too much power I have to say)...
And what about the speakers, you are driving 4/6 or 8 Ohms ?
Thanks
And what about the speakers, you are driving 4/6 or 8 Ohms ?
Thanks
carcuevas: I have both the newest version of the 260W 3e TPA3255 amp and one of the best sounding designs of the LM3886 diy realm, the My_Ref FE Evo A build, sold by Dario Fremen (see forums>amplifiers>chipamps> My_Ref Fremen Edition - Build thread and tutorial. I successfully drive my 8 ohm speakers using both of them. Neither of these are meant to power large venues but can drive loud listening levels in one’s home.
The new 3e boards make it easy to assemble an amp since they come already built and you can roll op-amps to change the sound (I’ve used stock, muses8820s, OPA1656 and OPA2209s successfully). For the cost of the amp, a single rail SMPS and then a chassis and all the connection parts it will make a terrific amp. I’m very impressed with the sound of this version of the amp.
The My_Ref LM3886 requires more building skill as Dario offers just the PCBs or the PCBs with the minimal amount of SMDs already mounted (all really large SMD components that you can solder by hand; no hot plates, hot air guns or baking ovens needed). The forum folk are greatly supportive and have built numerous variations around the use of different single op-amps and other component changes. You will need to buy two boards for stereo. The PS is built on each board. You just need to buy a toroidal transformer to make them work. It is a superb sounding amp for the cost. It just requires more building effort and slightly more space then the 3e setup would take.
I’ve used a modified Toppings D30, Arcam rDAC and currently an AMB.org gamma1+gamma2 build DAC signal into a simple preamp before the amps and there is dead silence with both of these amps (a trifle on/off noise with the 3e amp setup).
Hope this helps. Cheers,
Pete
The new 3e boards make it easy to assemble an amp since they come already built and you can roll op-amps to change the sound (I’ve used stock, muses8820s, OPA1656 and OPA2209s successfully). For the cost of the amp, a single rail SMPS and then a chassis and all the connection parts it will make a terrific amp. I’m very impressed with the sound of this version of the amp.
The My_Ref LM3886 requires more building skill as Dario offers just the PCBs or the PCBs with the minimal amount of SMDs already mounted (all really large SMD components that you can solder by hand; no hot plates, hot air guns or baking ovens needed). The forum folk are greatly supportive and have built numerous variations around the use of different single op-amps and other component changes. You will need to buy two boards for stereo. The PS is built on each board. You just need to buy a toroidal transformer to make them work. It is a superb sounding amp for the cost. It just requires more building effort and slightly more space then the 3e setup would take.
I’ve used a modified Toppings D30, Arcam rDAC and currently an AMB.org gamma1+gamma2 build DAC signal into a simple preamp before the amps and there is dead silence with both of these amps (a trifle on/off noise with the 3e amp setup).
Hope this helps. Cheers,
Pete
Hi @turion64, thanks for answering 🙂 actually I got on time to order one of the builds from Dario, when I saw them I thought it's the best I can do 🙂 🙂 they look great and Dario himself looks very detail oriented person, the documentation looks very good too, actually since I did not have very good iron, I ordered with the SMD already soldered so it should be OK.. Now I am waiting patiently to the boards to arrive and start with the build... Looking forward actually
Excellent.. You will be very happy.. I've built 3 sets so far: one with his audiophile quality parts suggestion, a second set with the same components but a different op-amp (ada4627, I think) and one using his middle of the road to slightly cheaper components (with the standard op-amp). All three are slightly different but all are superb sounding.. The building forum is long but everyone supports new builders.
Cheers,
Pete
Cheers,
Pete
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Hi @turion64, thanks for answering 🙂 actually I got on time to order one of the builds from Dario, when I saw them I thought it's the best I can do 🙂 🙂 they look great and Dario himself looks very detail oriented person, the documentation looks very good too, actually since I did not have very good iron, I ordered with the SMD already soldered so it should be OK.. Now I am waiting patiently to the boards to arrive and start with the build... Looking forward actually
One position, besides switching out of-amps, which seems to have a significant effect on sound is the power resistor at R3. The normal Caddock is a great choice but I found the Ohmite TNP10SHR330JE power resistor (at that position) made my listening a lot more pleasant. If you have 8 ohm speakers and don’t necessary drive your speakers to extreme listening levels you probably don’t even need a heatsink. I don’t use them on my build at this point. R3 is easily switchable after the build’s completion too. Just make sure you have solder-wick and chip-quik solder for easy removal of components so the PCB pads don’t get lifted.
Cheers, Pete