I think I need my voltage at l2 to be lower so I upped the R1 to 10k
That works.....increase your time scale to get steady state voltage at I2. When using constant current, you can also right click on each current tap and check the "stepped load" box and change the current slightly to check for ringing/overshoot.
A 100uf at C2 does look better.
Certainly does for hifi, but you may want a saggy ringing supply for guitar.....or you may want sag, but no ringing (small transformer/large caps).....I'm no expert here.
One more thing, when you build the actual PS, don't forget to put a bleeder R across at least one of the caps. This will drain the caps when powered down for safety. Use a 220K-470K 2W or so.
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Certainly does for hifi, but you may want a saggy ringing supply for guitar.....or you may want sag, but no ringing (small transformer/large caps).....I'm no expert here.
For guitar I think most designs want some sag and ringing, I will model some of my favorite guitar amps and see what is going on.
One more thing, when you build the actual PS, don't forget to put a bleeder R across at least one of the caps. This will drain the caps when powered down for safety. Use a 220K-470K 2W or so.
This is good advice and I will install a bleed resistor.
If you don't have the transformer yet, once you have it in hand measure the resistance from either end of the secondary to the CT and put that value in PSUD for a little fine tuning. Also, if you pull a little more current the B+ will be lower and a little less the B+ will be higher obviously......easy enough to see by changing the model.
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