My dual CS5000 has an autmatic cueing. When you bring over the headshell to the album, the platter locks in the speed and it lowers the tonearm.
On mine once the platter speed is locked, the cue drops way too fast and the cartridge hits the album to hard causing it to skip.
Any suggestions to fix?
thanks,
On mine once the platter speed is locked, the cue drops way too fast and the cartridge hits the album to hard causing it to skip.
Any suggestions to fix?
thanks,
The damping fluid has dried up. The solution is to disassemble the cueing assembly, clean out the residue using a solvent and refill it with damping fluid. It's been many a year since I've performed this task (I worked at a Dual-authorized repair shop a few decades back), but this is how you fix this.
ok good deal. I looked in service manual but do not see any info on it. Do you recall what weight oil I use? Can you give me a little more guidance on the procedure?
Thanks!!
Thanks!!
good deal. I looked at the service manual but no information on this. Do you know what weight oil I should use and can you give me a little more on the procedure?
Thanks
Thanks
When I worked on Dual turntables it was Wacker Siliconoil 500000 (?) and it was THICK and sticky but not a grease. Wacker is still in business in the UK.
G²
Wow, I remembered the siliconoil weight correctly. Good to know about the hobby shop. Last time I worked on turntables was around '78.
An even better grease than Shell Alvania #2 is Nye 368AX -a synthetic - but it isn't cheap. Nye Oil II is a synthetic equivalent of Isoflex PDP40, also a synthetic.
G²
Dual CS 5000 dampening refill
I had this same problem on my CS 5000, the arm was falling too fast so apparently after 30+ years the fluid dried up or leaked out. I made the repair today and it seems to be working fine now. Remove the silver plastic trim rings around the base of the arm, have to remove the plinth 1st. The rings are held in place with 3 allen headed screws. Perhaps you can only remove the front half? The dampening arm is in the front half. Remove the rubber cap on top of the lift arm then push the assembly down and out. Clean it. You can find 500,000 weight silicone fluid at an RC hobby shop where it's used in differentials. I used a tooth pick to fill the top undercut of the arm and pushed it back into place then I filled the lower undercut and pushed the arm back in past the lower undercut. Then I cleaned off the excess and pushed it fully in. Hold it in place while putting the rubber cap back on the top and re-assemble the table. I tried using a small syringe but the fluid is too thick. The toothpick worked fine. Do this over a rag or paper towel. FYI The arm rod has a spring on the top portion. The flared end of the spring is oriented to the top of the arm.
I had this same problem on my CS 5000, the arm was falling too fast so apparently after 30+ years the fluid dried up or leaked out. I made the repair today and it seems to be working fine now. Remove the silver plastic trim rings around the base of the arm, have to remove the plinth 1st. The rings are held in place with 3 allen headed screws. Perhaps you can only remove the front half? The dampening arm is in the front half. Remove the rubber cap on top of the lift arm then push the assembly down and out. Clean it. You can find 500,000 weight silicone fluid at an RC hobby shop where it's used in differentials. I used a tooth pick to fill the top undercut of the arm and pushed it back into place then I filled the lower undercut and pushed the arm back in past the lower undercut. Then I cleaned off the excess and pushed it fully in. Hold it in place while putting the rubber cap back on the top and re-assemble the table. I tried using a small syringe but the fluid is too thick. The toothpick worked fine. Do this over a rag or paper towel. FYI The arm rod has a spring on the top portion. The flared end of the spring is oriented to the top of the arm.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.