Guys,
i scored a pair of second hand yammies DSR112's
those things are LOUD and clear (well , coming from sub 600 bucks a piece tops i am amazed)
my 1st experience with a FIR DSP plate amp is great!
some comers are damaged and looks like is not plywood but MDF(yuckk)
some questions
is it feasible to transplant the LF driver and the HF/lens drivers and plate amp
to a 15mm plywood enclosure ? (do i need to use 18mm ? hope not )
of course i will keep the same area for the 12" LF driver and the 2 relfex ports size dimensions on it
the best i can to maintain the match of the FIR factory calibration
also
do i need to brace it like a subwoofer ?
also what inner damping material i can use
i found this plan on youtube
i scored a pair of second hand yammies DSR112's
those things are LOUD and clear (well , coming from sub 600 bucks a piece tops i am amazed)
my 1st experience with a FIR DSP plate amp is great!
some comers are damaged and looks like is not plywood but MDF(yuckk)
some questions
is it feasible to transplant the LF driver and the HF/lens drivers and plate amp
to a 15mm plywood enclosure ? (do i need to use 18mm ? hope not )
of course i will keep the same area for the 12" LF driver and the 2 relfex ports size dimensions on it
the best i can to maintain the match of the FIR factory calibration
also
do i need to brace it like a subwoofer ?
also what inner damping material i can use
i found this plan on youtube
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Its shape helps a lot, so no void 15 mm ply is OK, though may need some selective bracing in the form of taking scrap pieces glued on edge, i.e. 'floating' braces, wherever you find an audible resonance; the main thing is not to use screws and not to have any other joints as these just create 'hot' spots, .
so it can be like the 3D renders in the youtube video for internal bracing ?
btw, i just gigged with them and it was night and day difference compared to my old setup
i guess the DZR's must be a little bit better,
i was going to get 2 more but the guy who get em for me, sold a single 🤬, so now i have 3,
im hunting for another DSR112.
when i complete the second pair i will put a pair one in top of the other so the HF horns will be in the middle
kind of a MTM arrangement.
That worked with my old passive cabinets, hope this works with setup
🙂
btw, i just gigged with them and it was night and day difference compared to my old setup
i guess the DZR's must be a little bit better,
i was going to get 2 more but the guy who get em for me, sold a single 🤬, so now i have 3,
im hunting for another DSR112.
when i complete the second pair i will put a pair one in top of the other so the HF horns will be in the middle
kind of a MTM arrangement.
That worked with my old passive cabinets, hope this works with setup
🙂
Oh lordy I'm in trouble GM, my latest speaker design has maybe 250 screws !
Maybe I've got so many hot spots, none of them can be singled out as hot .... lol
Last time I bothered to do a screw count, I came up with 153 per enclosure...no enclosure I ever made has encountered a structural failure of any sort.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Rick...
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Rick...
Not surprised, but it doesn't change the physics of the situation based on some proprietary UL/CSA testing for hazardous locations (seismic, mining, etc.), so being someone whose business life in general and various hobbies in particular that demand high stiffness to mass ratio, has been one of attaining highest practical efficiency will continue to post what I believe to be most correct for the intended app, but as the ancient saying goes, "you can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him drink it" and as always, YMMV, FWIW, etc.. 😉
Wouldn't be surprised! In testing I've seen an entire 3/4" marine grade plywood box removable baffle/cover center pop out when 'ringed' with screws, so a continuous perimeter 'hotspot', but again this was pretty serious testing/abuse.
As I posted, technically inferior, especially for sealed or horn LF cabs, i.e. any pressurized and/or otherwise 'abused' box such as for touring and/or suspended, but from long experience we know that for typical DIY it's a proven option, though bet to limit them to clamping duty for glue seams and ideally removed/filled with glue/dowels or mixed with the appropriate sawdust, stain for stained finishes.
While on the subject of touring, etc., using metal/whatever corner reinforcement add ons is a bad plan too, much better to use internal rabbiting a bit away from the corners to create a repairable triangular crush zone to better protect its internals, basic box integrity.
While on the subject of touring, etc., using metal/whatever corner reinforcement add ons is a bad plan too, much better to use internal rabbiting a bit away from the corners to create a repairable triangular crush zone to better protect its internals, basic box integrity.