DSP with Asian ADAU1452 DSP Board+AD1938

Hi guys…

The site is great, and most of it is over my head. But thank you.

I am coming here with my hands help up. Help. I have searches all over. I am a total novice and most things I read have trouble understanding.

The Asian boards do not come well documented, and I have no idea what is in and what is out unless it is obvious. All the boards seem different, and this confuses me.

I have wanted to do DSP and Speaker Cross-over for many years and it is all very complex. I only want to do 2-Way Cross over and Sub. I would really love a digital in and digital our so I can use my own DAC’s.

But I think, please do not shoot me, I think this is an OK combination…ADAU1452 DSP Board+AD1938 Audio CODEC Board+USBi Emulator Burner USB Programmer | eBay

But the seller and other sellers, have no information. I really do know what all the outputs are or how to hook it up or if and where to put power.

Also, I cannot find instructions on how to use these boards with Sigma software to do all the DSP.

I have been looking for over 2 years and I am still confused.

Has anyone used this board and willing to show me??? I am no technical bloke.
 
Even MiniDSP expects the user attempting I2S I/O to have technical knowledge - http://www.minidsp.com/images/documents/I2S technical note.pdf

For "some reason" most products are chained to analog I/O. It's what the common audiophile understands; RCA jacks and 3 pin connectors of various types.

One would think a standardized I2S connector wouldnt be that hard to come up with. An agreeable design, different enough so that nobody plugs their headphones into it.
 
I have just bought what is basically the same and what I want to do is very similar. The Codec won't do it, it's analog output, and not audiophile quality. It will do to test though. I am a technical person, I'll let you know what I find as I fiddle. If you find somewhere this is all discussed, please let me know.
 
I'm saying that what you want to do, is something some of us also want to do. Use I2S for component interconnect, with components being things like USB or BT interface, DSP with multiple outputs, I2S input DACs or power amplifier as DAC. Keeping the digitally sourced music in the digital realm certainly going in and out of the DSP part.

You rarely see a "finished" commercial amp with I2S or USB connectivity as input - at least in the realm mere mortals can afford. Havent seen a lot of "finished" I2S I/O miniDSP type products, I assume because most wouldnt immediately understand what to do with those type of interconnections. People here have designed and built such things, (I2S input DAC, I2S input amp...) but the best you can do is get the PCBs and build the component yourself. You cant just buy it, ready to run.

One thing you can buy for a reasonable cost - the only one I know of - is a power amp with DSP called the Zoudio AIO4CH. Being a power amp, it doesnt fit your system architecture. (You could probably make it drive your balanced input amps with a few resistors and capacitors, but you'd give up your DACs and you'd have to like the particular ones in this TI amp chip) It also is only 4 channels - couldnt accommodate your sub requirement.

I bought a USB interface to convert to I2S and connected it to this amplifier. It works. I can drive the amp using a Raspberry Pi player just like any USB DAC. Inside the amp chip, is a DSP that can do speaker crossover filters, so I can do a two-way system, each driver having its own amp. Zoudio has figured out how to program the DSP and provides a GUI and physical programming interface for setup of the filter parameters.

There's limitations in power output and the sample rates it can do. These are ok for me because I'm old and dont enjoy loud music like I used to, so the ability to play concert levels without distortion isnt an issue. Also my hearing has degraded to where I actually no longer perceive certain high frequency parts of the music I used to be able to hear. Sample rates going 10 - 50X the highest frequency I can hear anymore wont do me a lot of good.

The I2S input and the GUI for filter settings is something I can handle. Takes a minute or two to adjust, versus just grabbing a knob and turning it like you did in the old analog Bass-Treble control days. Considering the limitations, I think it has a nice sound; others do also.

To actualize something like DSP speaker crossover, while keeping everything entirely in the Digital realm, it's the easiest and least expensive way I know of to get that. Pretty much plug 'n play at the finished board level - you have to put it in a case and give it DC power.
 
Hi Joe (jjasniew)…et.al.

Mate, mate, as they say in the bush, bloody beauty. I am going through the post - ZOUDIO AIO4CH: 4-channel amplifier with DSP and Bluetooth.

WOW there are a lot of people (including yourself) with a lot of knowledge and a lot of experience. I am on page 17 of 40 and I am getting a little lost. You lost me on BT (I am an ex-banker, now almost single man who makes watches), I though this was Bankers Trust. Then the penny dropped.

I am looking at all my XLR gear and ….
I am not that keen on BT and would love to take the audio output from my AES/I2S and do a 2-way with sub. I will have to ask for a hook-up diagram. As there are a lot of inputs/outputs with no names…I am only a simple man and easily gets confused.

On the face of it, it looks like a no brainer, unless one is in a rock band. I am shocked. 1 board and that is it. I suppose could use my passive pre-amp with balanced in/out…perhaps not.

24-36V DC(?) PSU?
 
Perhaps a slightly different approach, depending on your source
CamillaDSP is a software DSP which will run on most computers (Windows, Mac, Linux) and is very efficient - most computing devices these days are much more powerful than DSPs. CamillaDSP@diyAudio

A Pi3 is more than enough for this type of processing AND it can also function as a source (play files or web streams)
If you have a Raspberry Pi you can use Moode which includes CamillaDSP out of the box

I use CamillaDSP on 3 different machines
  • a Pi3 running Moode
  • an Intel Nuc running Ubuntu-MPD/MyMPD
  • an Amlogic S905x/x3 running Coreelec (Kodi).
In each case CamillaDSP works very well, with a nice web interface you can use to create the DSP functions
As for multi-channel DAC I found used Asus U7 DACs for sale on AliExpress for a very reasonable price and they work very well especially for the price

In my case I have performed surgery on some old Wharfedale Valdus400 3 way speakers to bypass the crossovers and connect directly to a set of 3 cheap ShuiYuan TPA3255 amplifier boards powered by a single similarly cheap Meanwell LRS350-36 power supply ... with CamillDSP performing crossover duties. If you want to output to a sub-woofer use 1 or more of the 8 channels out of the Asus U7 DAC to drive it
At low volume levels (I'm in a small room) it sounds fantastic. All up price was very very low and outcome definitely exceeds MY expectations

Maybe worth noting also that after I looked at importing a case for the amps I deided to buy a cheap used multi-channel amp to gut - just keep the case and connectors. Accidentally wound up with a very good condition Yamaha RX-V683 which I used as a "control" for subjective quality. The TPA3255 amps sound much better

If you want a hardware DSP there is a TPA3255 amp with that too 3e-Audio-TPA3250 and the later pages talk about how to program the hardware DSP
 
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Redger – great work.

I also have a coupe of 3e-Audio amps, but the TPA3251. I have a lot of gear and most of it is old-school analogue.

But it would be good to use the PC and the stuff I already have…. call me lazy, but the post on diyaudio is 219pages long.

Call me grumpy old stick in the mud. But what do I stick it into? How do I get the audio out of the PC/ AES/I2S …? into something, and I am guessing for a 2-way and a sub, 3 DAC’s. I am not too worried with 3 DAC’s.

Raspberry Pi’s just do not work for me. I tried and tried, but it was the coding that lost me…. I am window 10…I have a lot of PCs
??
If anyone want to email me direct. Great – foxint@foxint.com.au


I went to the Camila GitHub and it was talking about sudo... is there a windows version? I read the FAQ's and it scared me!!!!
 
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you don't need to do much more than download it and run it.
Look at Henrik's github page CamillaDSP@github

Download the Windows executables linked under the "Installing" heading, they're already compiled and ready to go. You need to construct a configuration file (yml suffix) and then start camilla by running the executable you downloaded - passing the yml file
The web server is pretty simple - it's a Python program, look for pycamilladsp pycamilladsp-plot camillagui-backend - download them from the "Related Projects" heading on the github page I previously linked to. There are some sample configs there too

Look here for config advice GitHub - HEnquist/camilladsp-config: Help for setting up CamillaDSP, example config files etc

As for sending the audio out of the PC I also went round and round that question before eventually settling on a single USB attached DAC. I2S is too challenging, HDMI is possible but high quality solutions are expensive (most, including AV devices are poor quality compared to relatively cheap DACs eg. anything from Topping). I made myself a long list of options but few are an attractive mix of practicality sound-quality and price

I looked at using multiple DACs but that too has its problems. USB trafiic is "managed" which means it's unsynchronised and time bases will become unsynchronised. I tried running 2 USB DACs out of a single PC and it sounded weird after an hour or so as the channels drifted apart. I considered using SPDIF connected DACs which would not have the "drift" problem since SPDIF data includes the time base (clock) BUT you're back to needing a way to generate multiple SPDIF signals. There are 3 options
  • either another device connected to the PC by USB which generates mutiple SPDIF signals like the MiniDSP UDIO8. But the ones I found were relatively expensive and/or of less than stellar "sound quality" (MiniDSP). The RME digiface looks good but relatively expensive
  • use advanced time-synchronisation features of GStreamer to send stereo to mutliple PCs each driving a single SPDIF attached DAC and running CamillaDSP Gstreamer Synch
  • use HDMI output to either an audio extractor or an AVR. I used my "test" AVR and just wired 6 of the outputs to the speaker drivers (again split the signals in the PC using CamillaDSP before outputting on HDMI) - it worked fine. 2nd hand AVRs can be very cheap and it's an easy way to start. The audio extractors I found were either expensive or of dubious "sound quality"
None of those options really grabbed me

Looking around the Asus Xonar U7 is an 8 channel DAC which performs pretty well ASR Test Of Asus Xonar U7 so I bought one of those. Look on eBay and AliExpress - you should still be able to find them - used.
I had to mess around a bit to work out which "logical channel" related to which physical output jack (probably a bigger issue for Linux than WIndows) but then it was plain sailing thereafter

If you have a better budget I think the Octo 8Pro or the Motu Ultralite Mk5 both look great and there are people using those for active speakers
 
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Redger,

Thank you.

I could not find a heading or file called installing.

“You need to construct a configuration file (yml suffix)” – I do not know what this is or how to do.

“Configuring and running CamillaDSP…under Fedora 31 & newer – this means nothing to me.

I have a Gustard U12 digital audio interface with XMOS – is this any good?

Octo 8Pro is a phone?
 
Hi smanz – Thank you.

Looks very slick. How much? I was not brave enough to download.

I watched both videos (very had to see the writing on the screen). They were both doing the same thing…I think. I am not sure.

Physically how do you get the sound out?? It must get out of the PC somehow??
 
Hi Guys

Thank you all for your suggestions. Audio is my part-time hobby and please excuse me for not being on your level of knowledge. I am keen and would like to explore this fascinating world, but I do not have enough time to devote as much time as I would imagine you guys do.

Just looking for some encouragement, understanding and hopefully I learn something on the way.

1. Dephonica – it looks great.
2. I just got a reply from one of the Chinese sellers of DSP with Asian ADAU1452 DSP Board+AD1938 etc…. I know don’t get too excited, but he/she said: We have a full set included (all the cables etc, as I asked for) plus instructions

Yes I am excited…anyone what to put in their 2-cents-pence-centimes???
 
Physically how do you get the sound out?? It must get out of the PC somehow??

Hi.

In Dephonica main features says:

Output to DirectSound, ASIO and Kernel Streaming audio devices

Any multichannel sound card, internal or external (USB) must be work.

For Foobar player, you can try this. Is free. foo_dsp_xover

Is older, but is possible it can run on actual Foobar version and Win10. The alternative is an old computer running Win XP.

Regards
 
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Smanz


Thank you. I have asked dePhonica to help, but I think that I need the multi-channel DAC/interface first. Chicken and egg.



I am looking at the Trascam-US-16x08 an 8 channel interface. Yes it is a pro audio with TRS balanced outputs.


Sorry if that puts off some of the audiophiles on the forum.



Hoping that will fix some of my problems.

 
Hi Guys


Saturday 7:30am and the Tanscam US-16x08 is here....yippie. As for most things it is made in China, but what surprised me was it is a Teac product.


If I may ask Smaz for some help with the software.


I am feeling very relieved, as, I got this message from a musician:


“Use this as your audio interface (Digital to Analog converter) and since you were wanting multiple outputs, I don't think you could have bought anything else that would have worked without buying 6 items or so.

So, the software that the unit comes with is all you need. You will want to use that software to assign which signal goes to which output. In windows, you would just want to make the TASCAM your primary audio interface.

All cables should be analogue, not digital. I would use 1/4" TRS to XLR M for the signal from Tascam to preamp. If not going with a snake I would use the forte or the lyric hg from evidence audio.”

 

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