Hi, I am considering removing the passive crossover in my Apogee Slant 8 speakers and replacing with an active crossover. Can I drive the 40” electrostatic tweeter directly from my amplifier? The amp is a Yamaha Mx-a5200.
I am just not sure how the impedances are set up with the passive crossover.
I am just not sure how the impedances are set up with the passive crossover.
It is not only the crossover frequency that counts, the slopes must be similar to the passive crossover. It is rarely strict 6/12/18 dB/octave for a passive crossover that interacts with the impedance of the drivers. Not sure but there could be some eq in the passive crossover in front of the ribbon. You can end up with a very strange response.
The Slant 8 manual says it has a minimum impedance of 3 ohms, which is below what the Yamaha is rated for. But if you are currently using it to drive the entire speaker, from a load standpoint you will likely be OK bi-amping with multiple channels of the same amp.
Changing to an active crossover will be much easier if you have measurement capabilities. As Roger stated, passive crossovers rarely precisely match the frequency and slope quoted in a manual. You may get in the ballpark by ear or by using stated values, but results will most likely be suboptimal if you can't measure while adjusting levels, slopes, and crosspoints. As a starting point, it's also a good idea to match the factory crossover's acoustic result.
How advisable a change of this type is depends on what you are trying to accomplish and how much work you are willing to put in. If you can find someone else that's done the exact modification you are contemplating on the same speaker and copy their approach, that would help ensure a positive result.
Changing to an active crossover will be much easier if you have measurement capabilities. As Roger stated, passive crossovers rarely precisely match the frequency and slope quoted in a manual. You may get in the ballpark by ear or by using stated values, but results will most likely be suboptimal if you can't measure while adjusting levels, slopes, and crosspoints. As a starting point, it's also a good idea to match the factory crossover's acoustic result.
How advisable a change of this type is depends on what you are trying to accomplish and how much work you are willing to put in. If you can find someone else that's done the exact modification you are contemplating on the same speaker and copy their approach, that would help ensure a positive result.
+1 - couldn't quibble with a word of mattstat. Active XO (esp for lower frequency drivers) falls into a category today of stuff an DIY builder should certainly favour. Should be a piece of cake. No sweat.
But what you really want is an all-singing-all-dancing DSP like the Behringer DCX2496, beloved of uncountable many audiophiles. You will be happy as the proverbial pig in faces when you enter that world. If you have a woofer, it is the one to get the DSP/active XO treatment and go bi-amped that way (leaving the mid-range and tweeter to be the second amp channel).
But enthusiastic as I am about DSP and active XO, with an OK passive XO and high suitable XO freq for the drivers, not likely to be audibly beneficial.
B.
But what you really want is an all-singing-all-dancing DSP like the Behringer DCX2496, beloved of uncountable many audiophiles. You will be happy as the proverbial pig in faces when you enter that world. If you have a woofer, it is the one to get the DSP/active XO treatment and go bi-amped that way (leaving the mid-range and tweeter to be the second amp channel).
But enthusiastic as I am about DSP and active XO, with an OK passive XO and high suitable XO freq for the drivers, not likely to be audibly beneficial.
B.
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