I’d like to build a sealed box FR speaker with the best mid-range I can get. I’m likely using Parts Express’ Denovo .23cf kit for simplicity. The box’s front baffle is rounded over, so the maximum driver outside diameter is about 6.5” (165mm). I’m leaving the bass to a sub, and after a recent hearing test showed a big falloff over 8K Hz, I’m not going to worry too much about that, either. The amplification is 15-watt Pass ACÁ monoblocs, and the room is 20x20 with hard surfaces. What I want from the speakers is that same pure sweetness that low-power Class A offers. Recommendations gratefully requested, and thanks.
The EBP (efficiency bandwidth product) uses the driver's Qts and other T&S parameters to determine the "suitability" of the driver being used in different enclosure loadings. You can still use a woofer designed for a sealed enclosure in a ported one, or vice versa. You just need to model the EBP and response flatness, excursion, phase and alignment Q to determine if it meets your goals.
Thanks. I had to look up EBP but get it now. I used an online enclosure calculator for my previous diy speaker and it turned out surprisingly well. I was just hoping for anybody with listening experience to chime in on the particular sound quality I’m after. I’m sure several drivers will “work,” technically.
EBP is only good for a first guess and to tell how the driver will react roughly. But a EBP does not tell what you can do with it as a lot of other factors are also into play.
Thanks for the input. I used the calculators at diyAudioandvideo.com for my initial selection of a sealed or ported enclosure and then volume and dimensions. Dave’s driver rec can work either sealed or ported, so I can go either way. The calculators at the diy site recommend a larger enclosure, so maybe I’ll go with the next larger Denovo size at Parts Express, which is .56 cf. I used that box for my first project, using the Dayton PS180-8, which I picked because of its 95 dB sens, neodymium magnet, cast frame and Kevlar/paper cone. I built scrap plywood boxes in two sizes, sealed and ported, and went with ported for its significantly greater bass response. I was very pleasantly surprised with the result, after some tinkering with acoustic fill. (Less sounded better.) Then I added the sub, which I plan to continue using with the new project. I don’t have any floor space available and have to place them in a bookcase, which is the reason for the small size enclosures as well as favoring a sealed design.
Dave, heavily stuffing an enclosure has the effect of making it act like a larger volume, right? Is that why you recommended that? Before Dave suggested the Alpair MAOP, I had the Alpair 10P and Seas Prestige H1794 as candidates. The MAOP is twice as expensive as the others, but my other expenses are minimal.
Dave, heavily stuffing an enclosure has the effect of making it act like a larger volume, right? Is that why you recommended that? Before Dave suggested the Alpair MAOP, I had the Alpair 10P and Seas Prestige H1794 as candidates. The MAOP is twice as expensive as the others, but my other expenses are minimal.
I haven’t heard the small one, the large one is decent. But 95 dB is a fib. The larger one measures 94.5 which is impressive, but hte 6 is goinf to be less, likely 92.
I have done boxes for both. the 220 (60 litres) in a muchh larger miniOnken than the 180 (13 litres).
dave
Up to a limit. And really only if sealed. Maybe as much as an apparent 15-20% but that may be pushing things.
Dave
0.56 ft3 = 15.86 litre.
The Denovo cabinets requires aditional bracing. Yje existing one os poorly oriented/placed and it is an MDF box so once that is done it will be a it smaller. And using a regular cylindrical duct, the box can be larger than an optimum miniOnken.
dave
The Denovo cabinets requires aditional bracing. Yje existing one os poorly oriented/placed and it is an MDF box so once that is done it will be a it smaller. And using a regular cylindrical duct, the box can be larger than an optimum miniOnken.
dave