It's time to start making some decisions as I need to know box sizes for my mid a woofers.
This is where I'm at:
1) Peerless Corundum Tweeter
2) Dayton Esoteric 5.25" Mid
3) 1 or 2 Dayton Esoteric 7"
Cross over 400 and 1600 gives a nice flat line on the face of it in PCD. Mids and woofers will be ~12mm forward of the tweeter.
Any glaring issues using that mid with the tweeter and woofer considering the tweeter and woofer seems to work fine in a 2-way?
1 or 2 woofers would be sealed - do I make two seperate boxes for them or let them share the same, twice as big, enclosure?
Cheers 🙂
This is where I'm at:
1) Peerless Corundum Tweeter
2) Dayton Esoteric 5.25" Mid
3) 1 or 2 Dayton Esoteric 7"
Cross over 400 and 1600 gives a nice flat line on the face of it in PCD. Mids and woofers will be ~12mm forward of the tweeter.
Any glaring issues using that mid with the tweeter and woofer considering the tweeter and woofer seems to work fine in a 2-way?
1 or 2 woofers would be sealed - do I make two seperate boxes for them or let them share the same, twice as big, enclosure?
Cheers 🙂
That 5”25 doesn’t seem to be the best match here. A lot of 4” and 5” mids perform better around 2,5kHz. With th Corundrum I would skip the mid altogether and build a 2,5-way. Oh, and if so, make separate enclosures for the bass speakers.
Thanks
These are going to be quite big and I just get the feeling only having 2.5 way would be a wasted opportunity.
These are going to be quite big and I just get the feeling only having 2.5 way would be a wasted opportunity.
I still don't know what I'm doing but I had a fiddle in PDC with this setup:
https://i0.wp.com/toidsdiyaudio.com/wp-content/uploads/wpforo/attachments/132015361/thumbnail/1682-1st-stab-PCD.PNG?w=1140&ssl=1
https://i0.wp.com/toidsdiyaudio.com/wp-content/uploads/wpforo/attachments/132015361/thumbnail/1682-1st-stab-PCD.PNG?w=1140&ssl=1
Well, save the money on the mids, buy a cheap usb audio interface and a measuring mike (Dayton ECM8000 is just fine) and go learn measuring loudspeakers.
I have a UMIK1 for my Arcam Receiver. I don't want to be buying loads of drivers - speacilly at these prices... Which is why I'm trying to decide on the drivers so a) I can be building the cabinets b) kow they will work together given the right crossover design.
I was going to say the same thing as Mark. If you're crossing the corundum down at 1600Hz there's no need for the midrange, at least in terms of directivity matching etc.
Of course I'd go with a waveguide on the tweeter and a 1600Hz would still work just fine for that too.
Something like this.
Zaph|Audio
But with the 7" Esoteric and Corundum tweeter.
The 7" Esoteric doesn't really do anything special when it comes to bass reproduction though. It's just a 7" with 5.3mm of xmax. If you're wanting to do a three way...
Anarchy 7 inch woofer by Denovo Audio
Would be a much better choice and far less expensive. Availability in the UK would up the price significantly but the ES180 is so expensive anyway a bunch of Anarchy drivers would still probably end up costing less.
Two Anarchies, the ES140 and Corundum tweeter then makes more sense, although I'd probably go with a SB15CAC as the mid.
Of course I'd go with a waveguide on the tweeter and a 1600Hz would still work just fine for that too.
Something like this.
Zaph|Audio
But with the 7" Esoteric and Corundum tweeter.
The 7" Esoteric doesn't really do anything special when it comes to bass reproduction though. It's just a 7" with 5.3mm of xmax. If you're wanting to do a three way...
Anarchy 7 inch woofer by Denovo Audio
Would be a much better choice and far less expensive. Availability in the UK would up the price significantly but the ES180 is so expensive anyway a bunch of Anarchy drivers would still probably end up costing less.
Two Anarchies, the ES140 and Corundum tweeter then makes more sense, although I'd probably go with a SB15CAC as the mid.
If you don't know enough about crossover design to do your own I would go for a kit. Preferably pick one that uses some of the drivers you're interested in.
THanks 5th
I have with on the front baffle for 8", I was originally looking at these before I noticed the fibre glass finish on the Esoterics: Tang Band W8-2096B 8" Underhung Midbass Driver 4 Ohm
I'm flciking through the SB drivers as I type - I don't like the colour of the mid you lionked to but interesting you mention SB.
I have with on the front baffle for 8", I was originally looking at these before I noticed the fibre glass finish on the Esoterics: Tang Band W8-2096B 8" Underhung Midbass Driver 4 Ohm
I'm flciking through the SB drivers as I type - I don't like the colour of the mid you lionked to but interesting you mention SB.
I'm all in... I've got a vague idea.
I'm building the cabs from slices of MDF and I don't want to be making 2 pairs 🙄😀
Why not the big DA32TX for a BUT6 xo with a smaller FR like a SS 10F/8424G00, then a 8" Wavecore fiber glass... (low efficienty often but sota distorsion number as per Revelators or Satoris. Could make something interresting as well.
However the face plate of the Peereless tweeter needs a little routing to remove 1 or 2 cm to make it nearer fot the mid...
Passive or active XO ?
However the face plate of the Peereless tweeter needs a little routing to remove 1 or 2 cm to make it nearer fot the mid...
Passive or active XO ?
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The Dayton Esoteric E160CF-8 has a small Xmax = 4mm, compared to 11mm for a 6" SB_Acoustics midbass.
Before you purchase the Dayton E160CF-8, read hifijim threadS on the SB_Acoustics drivers using ceramic coated aluminum cones and Satori TeXtream carbon cones.
The 12” SB34NRXL75-6 has T/S parameters optimized for sealed performance at 90db SPL. Attaching a 12" woofer to a side panel has become popular because it allows a narrow front panel.
New active 3-Way, Hypex and SB
New active Satori Textreme
======
A TramsLam cabinet is a BIG commitment. TransLam is worth DSP investments.... like hifijim Finding a proven TransLam design to Klone, or building a simple panel-cabinet protype seems justified. Vapor Audio has displayed a few impressive designs.
Before you purchase the Dayton E160CF-8, read hifijim threadS on the SB_Acoustics drivers using ceramic coated aluminum cones and Satori TeXtream carbon cones.
The 12” SB34NRXL75-6 has T/S parameters optimized for sealed performance at 90db SPL. Attaching a 12" woofer to a side panel has become popular because it allows a narrow front panel.
New active 3-Way, Hypex and SB
New active Satori Textreme
======
A TramsLam cabinet is a BIG commitment. TransLam is worth DSP investments.... like hifijim Finding a proven TransLam design to Klone, or building a simple panel-cabinet protype seems justified. Vapor Audio has displayed a few impressive designs.
Attachments
If only CNC was not so expensive !
The first brown cabinet is certainly a good soundstage imaging design, the little 6" SB thatcan be also the ceramic one can permit a low cut off that sided woof ask imho (no more than 150 hz while not sure AudioPhysik crossed as low). However as said I surmise a 4" with the same truncated front and a front single 8" or two in a .5 way arrengement is enough most of the time... If only pyramid shape was not so hard to do as well... Often it's the difficulty of the wood work that force the design choice.
In that regards I find the choice Hifijim made very smart : a little cabinet which is not obstructive and very good for the soundstage and a bass cabinet behind with delay, but it asks ative/DSP... So passive the tower is still the way to go...
Have you talked about your room size already elswhere ?
The first brown cabinet is certainly a good soundstage imaging design, the little 6" SB thatcan be also the ceramic one can permit a low cut off that sided woof ask imho (no more than 150 hz while not sure AudioPhysik crossed as low). However as said I surmise a 4" with the same truncated front and a front single 8" or two in a .5 way arrengement is enough most of the time... If only pyramid shape was not so hard to do as well... Often it's the difficulty of the wood work that force the design choice.
In that regards I find the choice Hifijim made very smart : a little cabinet which is not obstructive and very good for the soundstage and a bass cabinet behind with delay, but it asks ative/DSP... So passive the tower is still the way to go...
Have you talked about your room size already elswhere ?
Tell me about it - I've routed 50 slices now. I'm beginning to think the quote I got for CNC'ing the whole lot wasn't that bad. Considering the mdf boards, two router bits so far, cnc waterjetting the templates in 6mm aluminium...
curious while off topic, how does it costes you in GB please ? We are locked down, we want porn please, drop your CNC pictures please 🙂
You make the hardest...rest is simplier and can be easily changed...a removable front bafle will alloy like the Vapor picture to change easily the drivrrs size.
And after the drivers chouce is dictated by what you want or can...always trade offs and filter/driver combo choices...
And after the drivers chouce is dictated by what you want or can...always trade offs and filter/driver combo choices...