Ad-Supported software though. 😉
https://www.softpedia.com/get/CD-DVD-Tools/Data-CD-DVD-Burning/BurnAware-Free.shtml
https://www.softpedia.com/get/CD-DVD-Tools/Data-CD-DVD-Burning/BurnAware-Free.shtml
Plextor. I read everywhere that Plextor is the best for audio. I can't remember which model. They had a companion software Plextools. Not sure if it works with more recent Windows.
Plextor used to be the king of CD copying.
SCSI drives and all that. Does anyone remember SCSI anymore?
Don't think so. I've been using Sony and LG for a long time now, and LiteOn before that without a hiccup.
And the best bit is when your drive dies it is quite cheap to replace it.
As for software surprisingly everyone forgets the ultimate in quality, not necessarily ease of use, Exact Audio Copy.
https://www.exactaudiocopy.de/
All other pieces of SW mentioned above will copy a perfect, scratch free disk OK, but will skip through errors and simply create noise in their place.
EAC can do everything that the other SW does and more.
Check it out.
BTW, EAC provides so much flexibility, it's unbelievable.
Will tell you if your drive is accurate enough, it's offset and how to compensate for it, and so many other cool features.
SCSI drives and all that. Does anyone remember SCSI anymore?
Don't think so. I've been using Sony and LG for a long time now, and LiteOn before that without a hiccup.
And the best bit is when your drive dies it is quite cheap to replace it.
As for software surprisingly everyone forgets the ultimate in quality, not necessarily ease of use, Exact Audio Copy.
https://www.exactaudiocopy.de/
All other pieces of SW mentioned above will copy a perfect, scratch free disk OK, but will skip through errors and simply create noise in their place.
EAC can do everything that the other SW does and more.
Check it out.
BTW, EAC provides so much flexibility, it's unbelievable.
Will tell you if your drive is accurate enough, it's offset and how to compensate for it, and so many other cool features.
I managed to find maxell audio cds localy, will grab them and try when I get home.
Will also look into software.
Will also look into software.
If you want to have full control over burn speed take a look at an older version of Steinberg's Wavelab ( it appeared on version 6 iirc).
It will run on older OS though (XP).
I don't know if it is still supported on recent version but a look at manual should tell.
I had issue with 'consummer' software in the day: had same artefact as yours, sometimes the TOC was corrupted ( track index was non working for direct access but played regularly when you let the cd run it's way from start, sometimes the deck couldn't find the end of disc...).
No issue with pro mastering software and known to work config ( at that time it meant SCSI burner from Plextor or Yamaha with Adaptec's Scsi controller cards).
I must still have some SCSI burner somewhere ( i have a collection of SCSI players as i have old school hardware samplers with associated soundbanks) and still use SCSI on regular basis ( for transfer from pc to samplers!). 🙂
Plextor had 'Plextool' software which allowed to check for errors on burn cd. It would tell if a pressing plant would accept the cd as master or you'll have to send a DDP...
Edit: Stanislav didn't see your postwhile typing! 🙂
It will run on older OS though (XP).
I don't know if it is still supported on recent version but a look at manual should tell.
I had issue with 'consummer' software in the day: had same artefact as yours, sometimes the TOC was corrupted ( track index was non working for direct access but played regularly when you let the cd run it's way from start, sometimes the deck couldn't find the end of disc...).
No issue with pro mastering software and known to work config ( at that time it meant SCSI burner from Plextor or Yamaha with Adaptec's Scsi controller cards).
I must still have some SCSI burner somewhere ( i have a collection of SCSI players as i have old school hardware samplers with associated soundbanks) and still use SCSI on regular basis ( for transfer from pc to samplers!). 🙂
Plextor had 'Plextool' software which allowed to check for errors on burn cd. It would tell if a pressing plant would accept the cd as master or you'll have to send a DDP...
Edit: Stanislav didn't see your postwhile typing! 🙂
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I've made bad experience with basically all free burning programs - and also some older laptop drives.
Now I get excellent results with the NERO test suite and a brand new (laptop-size) USB LG drive.
My reference is if they are playable on my Philips CD304 and some other old CD Players. Burning speed didn't make any difference. Also, I think the fully black dyed discs to work "better" on some problematic players.
Now I get excellent results with the NERO test suite and a brand new (laptop-size) USB LG drive.
My reference is if they are playable on my Philips CD304 and some other old CD Players. Burning speed didn't make any difference. Also, I think the fully black dyed discs to work "better" on some problematic players.
I'm burning it now. I sticked to Power ISO for today as I'm tyred after work & full brake job on my car....
Will post results in few minutes, will try other software tommorow if it fails....
@ulogon By hardware releated issue, you think on playback or recording side?
Yesterday I switched from laptop to samsung writemaster IDE burner and results were the same....
Will post results in few minutes, will try other software tommorow if it fails....
@ulogon By hardware releated issue, you think on playback or recording side?
Yesterday I switched from laptop to samsung writemaster IDE burner and results were the same....
@weissi I will definately experiment with software if current attempt with new audio cd wont fix the issue.
I remember burning audio cds with Windows Xp Media player like 20 years ago and I never had a problem with it.
What a coincidence, I had just found brand new black cd in the garage earlier.
I remember burning audio cds with Windows Xp Media player like 20 years ago and I never had a problem with it.
What a coincidence, I had just found brand new black cd in the garage earlier.
I’m so glad that I was wrong about the possibly hardware-related issue: I guess the culprit was your laptop’s CD-Burner...
On the other hand I’m just so pleased to have suggested the CDs "for music" and even more of your likely-related success! 😊
P. S. 1: Since it could be that now it could open a controversy on the fact that the CDs "for music" and the CDs "for data" are absolutely the same, frankly I would be rather cautious about making any statement of an absolute content.
It seems that there is some difference even if (obviously) very small.
Maybe even economic one in favor of recording industry, however those rumours have never been confirmed.
I just report a couple of links.
The 1st is an educational article published on MusicEdMagic by Mike Waters, the 2nd one is about 5 answers on Amazon.com about the experiences with CD "for music" of customers, since may be that also those are worth something. 😉
P. S. 2: I just remembered that ages ago (just noticed that on the box there is the sponsorship of the 2006 FIFA World Cup in Germany!) I used almost exclusively the Philips CD-Rs called "audioCD-R", with never a single issue on many different players.
On the back of the package there is a graphic showing its better measurements. 🥷
Please draw your own considerations.
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Interesting. There is a difference either in cd type or if not that it is in cds quality.
Because this case is not like "I can hear the difference, but my friend can't", snake oil of some sort... those artefacts are really audible.
My guess is that it matters only for early cd players, remember how some didn't even play burned cds, only originals...
Maybee laser melts one type of cd more precise than the other, resulting in sharper corners of the "holes"... that is my best bet.
I can put this "defective" cd in my other, much newer player and it will play just fine.
I must research a bit, but if I remember correctly older players don't preload and correct possible errors before being played back...
Because this case is not like "I can hear the difference, but my friend can't", snake oil of some sort... those artefacts are really audible.
My guess is that it matters only for early cd players, remember how some didn't even play burned cds, only originals...
Maybee laser melts one type of cd more precise than the other, resulting in sharper corners of the "holes"... that is my best bet.
I can put this "defective" cd in my other, much newer player and it will play just fine.
I must research a bit, but if I remember correctly older players don't preload and correct possible errors before being played back...
(just kidding!)However no problem at all, since everything that has been said in this thread applies the same!
P. S.: At the end of the day the real (?) issue was hardware-related... 😉