Usually called "Spotting drills". If you can find those shorter lengths, that's pretty nice since you usually don't need the full length of a jobber drill and the extra rigidity is always welcome.
Ahh... I didn't think about jumping paper. I figured the glue stick would hold the paper down enough and then having the automatic center punch and subsequent pilot holes would take care of the rest.
Another thought... could make a separate thread for this, but why not...
Thoughts on using a drill press table vs. using a drill press vise when holding drilled material.
Thoughts on using a drill press table vs. using a drill press vise when holding drilled material.
When I was working on metal, Wochenende used to have a vise on the table? Vise holding the Material tightly, adjusting / fixing the whole on the ‚table‘... could be misunderstanding though...
As mad as it sounds I have had really good results cutting out holes for XLR, Speakons and powercons using flat blade wood drill bits, I didn't have anything else to hand so gave it a try on some spare 2mm ally plate and it made nice clean holes. I then filed a 25mm bit down to make an interference fit hole.
> Thoughts on using a drill press table vs. using a drill press vise when holding drilled material.
DP Vice normally clamps to a DP table?
I'd think use is obvious. If you drill a banana, or a rock, or any cubic/roundy thing, it fits nice in a vice. If you are drilling flat stock, lay it on the table and clamp it so it don't spin.
Yes, I have cut soft alloy with selected wood spade bits. It can be dangerous. You want the kind with a decided "pip" at the corners to cut the edges. Very best is pips larger than the sheet thickness so you don't have to scrape-out the middle. If the flat spade gets the least cocked in the hole, it binds and throws stuff. (It's also hard on the bit but they are so cheap...)
DP Vice normally clamps to a DP table?
I'd think use is obvious. If you drill a banana, or a rock, or any cubic/roundy thing, it fits nice in a vice. If you are drilling flat stock, lay it on the table and clamp it so it don't spin.
Yes, I have cut soft alloy with selected wood spade bits. It can be dangerous. You want the kind with a decided "pip" at the corners to cut the edges. Very best is pips larger than the sheet thickness so you don't have to scrape-out the middle. If the flat spade gets the least cocked in the hole, it binds and throws stuff. (It's also hard on the bit but they are so cheap...)
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I mean one of these jobbies to get yourself a wider work surface...
WEN DPA2412T 24-by-12-Inch Drill Press Table with an Adjustable Fence — WEN Products
I'd think with a few clamps you can get your part to stay still.
WEN DPA2412T 24-by-12-Inch Drill Press Table with an Adjustable Fence — WEN Products
I'd think with a few clamps you can get your part to stay still.
I would suggest that you cover the aluminium panel with decorators masking tape before marking up. As you drill you will get aluminium spirals coming off and these will scratch the surface unless it is protected. Then place your panel template over the masking tape and centre punch through it.
Be aware that spring centre punches will jump. I would suggest you use the old fashioned way with a normal punch and hammer as you can adjust how much force you put behind it.
As you do drill, do it in small increments e.g drill a couple of mm in, apply some oil or cutting fluid and drill a little deeper. Let the drill bit come up for air and to cool.
There are mixed feeling about using a backing plate: personally I use one - usually a sheet of plywood. Also don't forget to remove the burrs from around the hole once you have finished. This can be done with a propper de-burring tool or a large drill bit but use either very lightly.
Cheers
Mike
Be aware that spring centre punches will jump. I would suggest you use the old fashioned way with a normal punch and hammer as you can adjust how much force you put behind it.
As you do drill, do it in small increments e.g drill a couple of mm in, apply some oil or cutting fluid and drill a little deeper. Let the drill bit come up for air and to cool.
There are mixed feeling about using a backing plate: personally I use one - usually a sheet of plywood. Also don't forget to remove the burrs from around the hole once you have finished. This can be done with a propper de-burring tool or a large drill bit but use either very lightly.
Cheers
Mike
I bought a set of assorted countersink bits from Harbor Freight. I plan on using that afterwards for de-burring and countersinking. The bits come with a small handheld driver so I can do this part slowly.
Since I have the additional table, I think I give that a whirl as well to see if it's too my liking.
This is some great advice.
Since I have the additional table, I think I give that a whirl as well to see if it's too my liking.
This is some great advice.
Traditional lubricant for drilling aluminum is a mixture of lard and kerosine!
In addition to a center punch the first dent is made with a prick punch. The difference is a center punch is sharpened at an angle of 30 degrees and and a prick punch is sharper at 60 degrees.
The order is prick punch, center punch and then a special center drill. You can get a drill bit with a 1/4" body and a 1/16" tip. They come double ended and are pretty much always used in turning metal on a lathe to provide the center point for a live or dead center.
After you use the center drill you increase the hole diameter by 1.5 X with each successive drill bit.
There are also Kevlar or similar gloves to protect your hands. At the least pigskin gloves are the old standby.
Laying out a piece of sheet metal by hand a skilled person can get all the holes to within .005"!
That also gives you a clue as to how when drilling a hole it should be slightly oversize.
In addition to a center punch the first dent is made with a prick punch. The difference is a center punch is sharpened at an angle of 30 degrees and and a prick punch is sharper at 60 degrees.
The order is prick punch, center punch and then a special center drill. You can get a drill bit with a 1/4" body and a 1/16" tip. They come double ended and are pretty much always used in turning metal on a lathe to provide the center point for a live or dead center.
After you use the center drill you increase the hole diameter by 1.5 X with each successive drill bit.
There are also Kevlar or similar gloves to protect your hands. At the least pigskin gloves are the old standby.
Laying out a piece of sheet metal by hand a skilled person can get all the holes to within .005"!
That also gives you a clue as to how when drilling a hole it should be slightly oversize.
For deburring larger circular holes and rectangular holes, I use these deburring tools. The pivoting cutter is double edged as so suits left and right handers. The cutters are replaceable when they loose their edge. I wouldn't be without them.
The picture shows a cheap and cheerful plastic handled version and a nicer metal one.
The picture shows a cheap and cheerful plastic handled version and a nicer metal one.
